No start new motor help!
Car:1988 t2
Mods: streetported, posted wastegate @15psi, fmic, 550/850 high impedance inj. (resistor pack delete), apexi safc, full 3inch, no ac/ps/emissions, innovate lc1, gilmer pulleys, greddy type rs bov, silicone vac lines, rad/elec fan, etc... Fresh build. Fuel, spark, compression. Almost starts but just wont. Eshaft key way at 3'o'clock and timing marks at 12 o'clock. Tried key way at 9 as well. Car will not start. Timing light shows no strobe and it's fine itself. What is wrong? Need help. ASAP |
If you have fuel, spark, and compression like you said, it's either flooded or the timing is off.
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Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
(Post 12104566)
If you have fuel, spark, and compression like you said, it's either flooded or the timing is off.
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What kind of light is it as you need to use a specific type on the rotary. And you might want to place the clamp on a different part of the plug wire.
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I had a newer timing light bought at kragen that didnt work. Borrowed my dads old craftsman timing light, and that one did.
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Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
(Post 12104712)
I had a newer timing light bought at kragen that didnt work. Borrowed my dads old craftsman timing light, and that one did.
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Search for CAS (using advanced search) and add hailers to the search field ie (CAS hailers) and it will being up threads w/the visual look of how to stab the CAS withing a degree or two.
Like this: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...thread-868482/ |
Timing
Originally Posted by satch
(Post 12104723)
Search for CAS (using advanced search) and add hailers to the search field ie (CAS hailers) and it will being up threads w/the visual look of how to stab the CAS withing a degree or two.
Like this: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...thread-868482/ right? |
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I dont know how you can see your god damn key way anyways. That means you have the front hub removed?
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Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
(Post 12104783)
I dont know how you can see your god damn key way anyways. That means you have the front hub removed?
Anyways so today I swapped cas's and still same stuff, it tries but won't go. So i decided to check my coils. Here's what they're supposed to measure and what i got. Leading: L1-L2 = 12.56k ohms A/B = 0.6k ohms Trailing: A/B = O.L A/T = 0.6 ohms What i got: : 16k ohms, jumping to 18 : 1.5k ohms : O.L : O.L Is it me or are these coils jacked? Did i test then right? They are out of the car and im pretty sure I probed them right. And meter was zeroed out. Would this cause my no start problem? Like it tries, it's close, it kicks, there's visible spark, but timing light doesnt pick up any signal. |
The lead coil is the most important. Since it's a fresh rebuild and these are hard to start sometimes thus oil in the spark plug holes is necessary and you rotate the engine by hand a bit to spread the oil and then try to start the car.
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Fyi if you pulled your hub off, you're going to have to restack the Torrington bearings
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I just went through some similar issues, would start and immediately die (if I could get it to start at all), tried pouring oil down the intake to bump up compression, tried new plugs, tested coils, ect. Come to find out my CAS was working but wasn't (it would randomly cut out) even though it appeared to be working on my MS3Pro it actually wasn't working properly, went with a Hall effect trigger kit and started right up with no issues (besides tuning related issues)
What I'm getting at is check timing and if CAS is correct, check the CAS output, it was $300 for my trigger kit (can't use PS or AC) but was the best $300 I've spent on the car |
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