Not ready to put it in but test fitting for proper BOV Flange location. Going to get it welded on this week.


One thing worth noting. When using the Xcessive lower Intake manifold it pushes the lower and upper away from the firewall. This shortens the distance to the intercooler. The Prefab pipes are assuming stock location so the pipe ends up being a bit long. The IC pipe is slighting penetrating the IC. I think it will work without cutting.


Another option is there is a slightly shorter pipe in the full kit for the Hotside if using twins. That would have worked but someone will want to use that pipe. Friend of mine has a twin turbo car so he will likely be using it.

 

Have you thought about putting an ls3 in this? I bet that would really get it going

 

Yeah, this should be just as quick lol
Anyone ever put a Maserati motor in an FD?

 

Then you could use this emblem..

 

Plus that sound! Same motor in the Ferrari. I think the trans would be the biggest problem although I don't know what the dimensions are on the motor. Not a lot of info online about exterior dimensions. Prices on those motors are reasonable. About what you would pay for an LS Crate motor.

 

I'm tackling the Greddy V-Mount installation right now myself. I need to relocate my remote shock canisters, catch can, relocated coolant overflow bottle, and AST. I'm wondering if the slight penetration of the IC pipe into the IC was a design feature specifically for your issue. I couldn't think of any reason why only the IC exit happens to be 3 and 1/8" instead of 2 and 3/4" or 3". I was worried I wouldn't be able to find a silicone coupler that size, since I don't want to use the powder blue ones it came with.

 

Got the Tial BOV flange welded on. Paul did a nice job. Paul is on FB "PNR Welding" and is an avid bracket racer.
https://m.facebook.com/pnrwelding.net/




And Dual Oil Coolers from Sakebomb Arrived! Will open this up soon.

 

I have a completely stock Greddy V Mount full kit. I didn't plan on using the stock couplers either.

So the IC piping is 2.75. The hot side of the IC is 2.75 and the cold side of the IC is 3.25. All the IC piping is 2.75. I checked both sides of each pipe. Looks like I will be buying a reducer for the Cold side. The blue Greddy couplers that come with it look like flimsy junk so never planned on using them anyway.

 

Similar to this Ferrari engine going in this GT86?

 

Seems like they made it more difficult than it had to be going with a motor from a rear engine car verses a front engine rear drive car. Basically the same motor but the Maserati motor dimensions seem like they would work better in the front configuration on the Toyota. Guess they used what they could get their hands on.

 

I measured 3.125 on that cold side IC. HPS actually makes a 3.125 to 2.75 reducer. I also have to have a 2.5 to 2.75 reducing 90 degree elbow to come off my EFR turbo.

 

You are probably right about the cold side of the IC but I think a 3.25 should work without leaking with T-Bolt clamps. I was looking at the HPS and Vibrant Reducers.
As far as the hot side. My turbo has a cast elbow welded onto it that is 2.5 and already had a reducer for that side from Mishimoto.

 

Nice haul.

I have a greddy v-mount sitting on my dining room table waiting to be fitted

 

Marf,

Thanks for posting that. I will show my wife I'm not the only one.

 

Haha, my Turblown 7670 kit is on there too

 

Great minds think a like I have a full body kit and three pairs of fenders in one of my spare bedrooms

 

We have been having some very high temps all month and it's been difficult to get out and do some work on the car. I noticed a break in the weather for today and took,a vacation day. I got a lot done. This weekend will be 98-99 degrees. So it won't progress very far unless I get up at dawn and work for a few hours.
So this is how we started the day.


Then removed the nose and fender liners.

Drained the coolant from the Koyo N-Flow radiator that looks basically new still.

Removed the fans from the radiator.


Old washer tank, have new washer and overflow tanks so took out the old ones and they look serviceable so I may sell the old ones.

Tein Super street coil overs look good. No rust or leaks. Plan to upgrade these to Ohlins so these will go up for sale.

 

Last night I decided to order the AWR sway bar mounts. These replace the weak stock mounts that always bend and crack. This is a must do item and anyone who tracks their car at all should already have done this. I also ordered the Polyurethane sway bar bushings as mine has the stock rubber bushings and I could see they are deteriorated. It's a nice mod for the 93 cars that have the larger rear sway bar as this stiffens up the front and has a similar effect of a larger front bar or a smaller rear bar.



You can find the sway bar mounts here.
Sway Bar Bracket - 7304 ? 1993-1995 RX-7 - AWR Racing Store

And the sway bar bushings here.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-5112r

 

Curious to see before and after IATs. I like the Greddy, but not the price tag.

And talking engine swaps, if it were me, S65. Love the valve train noise on that pig. Output is similar to LS3, so cost is probably not justified (other than for that whine).

 

Yeah. My Range Rover Sport Supercharged is 510 HP of 5.0 Liter Multicam and valve music with that blower singing.

 

Ok back to business at hand. It's hot and humid. I can't stop this train. Must keep pushing thru it.
So my Full Function Engineering Idler pulley fits... But it's tight. Real tight. I may grind a bit off the compressor housing depending on how it looks when I get a belt on there. Have a look.



Little bit of air in between lol


I'm also sanding down the AC compressor pulley and painting it as it looks like crap. I've already started but maybe only half way done. Maybe finish up tomorrow. Here is the before.

 

Whoa that is close. Thxs for posting up a link to tbise ssay bar mounts

 

The AC pulley comes off fairly easily, may be easier to restore it off the compressor.

 

Wasn't sure it came off or not. You may be right about it being easier if I took it off. It's chock full of grease also.

 

For those of you with the IRP oil filler neck with the -10an bung for the catch can. I have been trying to find a nice Banjo Bolt to work with it. I picked up a couple but the one that fit is the Radium. It is -10an by 7/8 Orb. Yes any -10an would fit but I have yet to see a Banjo Bolt that is -10an on both sides. One seems to always be SAE. I threaded it in and it fits nicely.

So for those of you wanting a nice looking Banjo Bolt for your nice IR Performance Oil filler neck. Here is your solution.