Custom Solenoid Rack
Mine is finally up and running, I'll try to post some pics when I get home.
Would have had it done sooner but the wifes car started squirting coolant all over the place and I had to also replace the rad on top of everything else.
For mine I removed the center part that holds the solenoids, but left the fuel line hard rails and the frame part of the rack so I'd have something to secure my coils to.
It's a fight to remove that portion but boy did it clean it up in there, and it makes routing of the vac hose direct instead of a confusing snake through the metal hard pipes in the nest.
Looks clean, gives lots of space up, and makes any troubleshooting extremely easy, you don't even need to remove the UIM to trace your vac hose.
The only vac hose line that isn't accessible is the one that goes from the FPR to the LIM, but that has nothing to do with the solenoids anyway if you use an aftermarket one.
At some point it will make it possible for me to run an xcessive lim w/ BNR's for a very nice setup.
I snapped a few pics I'll try to put some up when I get home.
The car itself seems very responsive but I haven't pushed it much due to some rewiring I'm in the middle of and my wideband isn't hooked up at the moment.
No weird problems that seems out of the ordinary though but I've probably only had it up to 6-7 psi of boost (boost controller off too, only running at wastegate pressure)
Love it!
Would have had it done sooner but the wifes car started squirting coolant all over the place and I had to also replace the rad on top of everything else.
For mine I removed the center part that holds the solenoids, but left the fuel line hard rails and the frame part of the rack so I'd have something to secure my coils to.
It's a fight to remove that portion but boy did it clean it up in there, and it makes routing of the vac hose direct instead of a confusing snake through the metal hard pipes in the nest.
Looks clean, gives lots of space up, and makes any troubleshooting extremely easy, you don't even need to remove the UIM to trace your vac hose.
The only vac hose line that isn't accessible is the one that goes from the FPR to the LIM, but that has nothing to do with the solenoids anyway if you use an aftermarket one.
At some point it will make it possible for me to run an xcessive lim w/ BNR's for a very nice setup.
I snapped a few pics I'll try to put some up when I get home.
The car itself seems very responsive but I haven't pushed it much due to some rewiring I'm in the middle of and my wideband isn't hooked up at the moment.
No weird problems that seems out of the ordinary though but I've probably only had it up to 6-7 psi of boost (boost controller off too, only running at wastegate pressure)
Love it!
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; Dec 13, 2011 at 08:55 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 8
From: California, SF
Mine is finally up and running, I'll try to post some pics when I get home.
Would have had it done sooner but the wifes car started squirting coolant all over the place and I had to also replace the rad on top of everything else.
For mine I removed the center part that holds the solenoids, but left the fuel line hard rails and the frame part of the rack so I'd have something to secure my coils to.
It's a fight to remove that portion but boy did it clean it up in there, and it makes routing of the vac hose direct instead of a confusing snake through the metal hard pipes in the nest.
Looks clean, gives lots of space up, and makes any troubleshooting extremely easy, you don't even need to remove the lim to trace your vac hose.
The only vac hose line that isn't accessible is the one that goes from the FPR to the LIM, but that has nothing to do with the solenoids anyway if you use an aftermarket one.
At some point it will make it possible for me to run an xcessive lim w/ BNR's for a very nice setup.
I snapped a few pics I'll try to put some up when I get home.
The car itself seems very responsive but I haven't pushed it much due to some rewiring I'm in the middle of and my wideband isn't hooked up at the moment.
No weird problems that seems out of the ordinary though but I've probably only had it up to 6-7 psi of boost (boost controller off too, only running at wastegate pressure)
Love it!
Would have had it done sooner but the wifes car started squirting coolant all over the place and I had to also replace the rad on top of everything else.
For mine I removed the center part that holds the solenoids, but left the fuel line hard rails and the frame part of the rack so I'd have something to secure my coils to.
It's a fight to remove that portion but boy did it clean it up in there, and it makes routing of the vac hose direct instead of a confusing snake through the metal hard pipes in the nest.
Looks clean, gives lots of space up, and makes any troubleshooting extremely easy, you don't even need to remove the lim to trace your vac hose.
The only vac hose line that isn't accessible is the one that goes from the FPR to the LIM, but that has nothing to do with the solenoids anyway if you use an aftermarket one.
At some point it will make it possible for me to run an xcessive lim w/ BNR's for a very nice setup.
I snapped a few pics I'll try to put some up when I get home.
The car itself seems very responsive but I haven't pushed it much due to some rewiring I'm in the middle of and my wideband isn't hooked up at the moment.
No weird problems that seems out of the ordinary though but I've probably only had it up to 6-7 psi of boost (boost controller off too, only running at wastegate pressure)
Love it!
Like I stated in my build thread, I believe this kit can really bring out the potential of Twins in the FD and make the car more responsive and more enjoyable for us to drive.
Harold, once you are done with the wiring work and such, please post back as I would like to see how your set-up is done and that may give others another idea to make this kit better in terms of future diagnostic procedure-wise and the cosmetic wise.
Personally, I am excited to see what you've described. Good work!
-Eric
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 8
From: California, SF
btw, we need 1 more person to fill spot #5 for GB #3 to start going. If we hit 10, I can drop the kit down by 7% to it's current price. Lets do it people!!!!
-Eric
-Eric
I fixed my issue, long story short, I broke the knock sensor wire and my first attempt at fixing it failed.
I drove her to grab some fresh gas. The response is incredible, I was not expecting such an improvement. I highly recommend this to anyone who is still on the fence on this, its well worth the work and $.
I drove her to grab some fresh gas. The response is incredible, I was not expecting such an improvement. I highly recommend this to anyone who is still on the fence on this, its well worth the work and $.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 8
From: California, SF
I fixed my issue, long story short, I broke the knock sensor wire and my first attempt at fixing it failed.
I drove her to grab some fresh gas. The response is incredible, I was not expecting such an improvement. I highly recommend this to anyone who is still on the fence on this, its well worth the work and $.
I drove her to grab some fresh gas. The response is incredible, I was not expecting such an improvement. I highly recommend this to anyone who is still on the fence on this, its well worth the work and $.
I am glad you liked it and put out good words for the kit itself. I appreciated.
When I first jumped in the car after swapping over to this kit, I couldn't believe how much it had made an improvement over stock.
I just couldn't emphasize enough that if people want to stay on twins, this is the way to go either for better reliability and/or want to go with after market BNRs and push the turbos to the limit.
-Eric
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 8
From: California, SF
btw, for people in GB #1 and #2 who got the kit running, please take a moment and give me a trader score as I will do the same for you.
I hope to provide this kit as long as possible to the community and make it less hassle and user friendly. Your positive advices/inputs/responses and comments will all be gladly accepted and appreciated. Thanks all!
-Eric
I hope to provide this kit as long as possible to the community and make it less hassle and user friendly. Your positive advices/inputs/responses and comments will all be gladly accepted and appreciated. Thanks all!
-Eric
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
I'm very glad you're offering this option to the community.... I know of a few people that can benefit from this solenoid rack, I'll be sure to let them know
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 8
From: California, SF
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 8
From: California, SF
Total cost would be $717.10 according to the paypal fee calculator shipped to your door step.
I actually have 1 set sitting here that's ready to ship. This is my model set, however I've made over 12 sets already and everything is already imprinted in my mind =]. Let me know.
BTW, this is with the PnP harness. I believe right now, I should just OFFER the PnP option as a whole package because everyone else is going with the PnP rather than customizing their own harness.
What do ya'll think? Please let me know as this will make things much easier for me.
-Eric
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 8
From: California, SF
Yes, easily.
If no one noticed I live in Japan, and just installed this onto a 92 FD.
My double throttle was already removed, so only had 4 solenoids on the bottom part of the rack, the top solenoid that has a black plug, and the one bolted to the ACV area. Of the 6, 4 are replaced with this kit, and the other 2 control operation of the ACV.
During the project I removed the ACV, removed the entire center section of the rat's nest that holds the solenoids, leaving only the main brace part that bolts onto the shortblock. I would have removed the entire thing but would have had nowhere to secure my coils.
I removed the RHD driver side fender, drilled a couple small holes and secured the solenoids to the inside fender wall with bolts.
In the locations where you have "T"s, I located these close to the solenoids (behind the RHD brake booster) to keep them out of the heat. Then I ran the individual hoses directly to the locations on the Y-pipe, a couple more hoses that go from the solenoids under the now spacious area under the UIM to the hard pipes area, and one to the vac chamber.
As of now I am not using any of the hard lines from the rats nest (removed as I mentioned earlier), nor any of the pass through LIM connections. All except one boost related connection was removed and plugged from the UIM as well. The only other UIM connection I have is the PCV connection.
Since JDM FD's don't have EGR, AWS, etc it's even easier to do this if anything.
What this means is that now all of the vac hose connections are easily visible without removing ANYTHING. The solenoids are easily tested without removing ANYTHING (get the PnP harness btw). Possibilities now extend to running an aftermarket LIM, like the xcessive. It's not just for singles anymore! Of course this also means you can max out BNR's because these solenoids are rated to over 100psi if I remember correctly.
With the installation of an EBC you have now removed all of the limiting factory solenoids, and only the Y pipe and large actuator on the bottom of the turbos remain. I'm not sure what the vac and pressure chambers are limited to in PSI, and that's the only factor I haven't been able to evaluate yet.
Does the straight vac line runs cause any loss of spool or responsiveness? Absolutely not, if anything the car feels a lot snappier than it did, as these solenoids can probably respond/cycle a lot quicker than the stock ones.
If no one noticed I live in Japan, and just installed this onto a 92 FD.
My double throttle was already removed, so only had 4 solenoids on the bottom part of the rack, the top solenoid that has a black plug, and the one bolted to the ACV area. Of the 6, 4 are replaced with this kit, and the other 2 control operation of the ACV.
During the project I removed the ACV, removed the entire center section of the rat's nest that holds the solenoids, leaving only the main brace part that bolts onto the shortblock. I would have removed the entire thing but would have had nowhere to secure my coils.
I removed the RHD driver side fender, drilled a couple small holes and secured the solenoids to the inside fender wall with bolts.
In the locations where you have "T"s, I located these close to the solenoids (behind the RHD brake booster) to keep them out of the heat. Then I ran the individual hoses directly to the locations on the Y-pipe, a couple more hoses that go from the solenoids under the now spacious area under the UIM to the hard pipes area, and one to the vac chamber.
As of now I am not using any of the hard lines from the rats nest (removed as I mentioned earlier), nor any of the pass through LIM connections. All except one boost related connection was removed and plugged from the UIM as well. The only other UIM connection I have is the PCV connection.
Since JDM FD's don't have EGR, AWS, etc it's even easier to do this if anything.
What this means is that now all of the vac hose connections are easily visible without removing ANYTHING. The solenoids are easily tested without removing ANYTHING (get the PnP harness btw). Possibilities now extend to running an aftermarket LIM, like the xcessive. It's not just for singles anymore! Of course this also means you can max out BNR's because these solenoids are rated to over 100psi if I remember correctly.
With the installation of an EBC you have now removed all of the limiting factory solenoids, and only the Y pipe and large actuator on the bottom of the turbos remain. I'm not sure what the vac and pressure chambers are limited to in PSI, and that's the only factor I haven't been able to evaluate yet.
Does the straight vac line runs cause any loss of spool or responsiveness? Absolutely not, if anything the car feels a lot snappier than it did, as these solenoids can probably respond/cycle a lot quicker than the stock ones.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 8
From: California, SF
Yes, easily.
If no one noticed I live in Japan, and just installed this onto a 92 FD.
My double throttle was already removed, so only had 4 solenoids on the bottom part of the rack, the top solenoid that has a black plug, and the one bolted to the ACV area. Of the 6, 4 are replaced with this kit, and the other 2 control operation of the ACV.
During the project I removed the ACV, removed the entire center section of the rat's nest that holds the solenoids, leaving only the main brace part that bolts onto the shortblock. I would have removed the entire thing but would have had nowhere to secure my coils.
I removed the RHD driver side fender, drilled a couple small holes and secured the solenoids to the inside fender wall with bolts.
In the locations where you have "T"s, I located these close to the solenoids (behind the RHD brake booster) to keep them out of the heat. Then I ran the individual hoses directly to the locations on the Y-pipe, a couple more hoses that go from the solenoids under the now spacious area under the UIM to the hard pipes area, and one to the vac chamber.
As of now I am not using any of the hard lines from the rats nest (removed as I mentioned earlier), nor any of the pass through LIM connections. All except one boost related connection was removed and plugged from the UIM as well. The only other UIM connection I have is the PCV connection.
Since JDM FD's don't have EGR, AWS, etc it's even easier to do this if anything.
What this means is that now all of the vac hose connections are easily visible without removing ANYTHING. The solenoids are easily tested without removing ANYTHING (get the PnP harness btw). Possibilities now extend to running an aftermarket LIM, like the xcessive. It's not just for singles anymore! Of course this also means you can max out BNR's because these solenoids are rated to over 100psi if I remember correctly.
With the installation of an EBC you have now removed all of the limiting factory solenoids, and only the Y pipe and large actuator on the bottom of the turbos remain. I'm not sure what the vac and pressure chambers are limited to in PSI, and that's the only factor I haven't been able to evaluate yet.
Does the straight vac line runs cause any loss of spool or responsiveness? Absolutely not, if anything the car feels a lot snappier than it did, as these solenoids can probably respond/cycle a lot quicker than the stock ones.
If no one noticed I live in Japan, and just installed this onto a 92 FD.
My double throttle was already removed, so only had 4 solenoids on the bottom part of the rack, the top solenoid that has a black plug, and the one bolted to the ACV area. Of the 6, 4 are replaced with this kit, and the other 2 control operation of the ACV.
During the project I removed the ACV, removed the entire center section of the rat's nest that holds the solenoids, leaving only the main brace part that bolts onto the shortblock. I would have removed the entire thing but would have had nowhere to secure my coils.
I removed the RHD driver side fender, drilled a couple small holes and secured the solenoids to the inside fender wall with bolts.
In the locations where you have "T"s, I located these close to the solenoids (behind the RHD brake booster) to keep them out of the heat. Then I ran the individual hoses directly to the locations on the Y-pipe, a couple more hoses that go from the solenoids under the now spacious area under the UIM to the hard pipes area, and one to the vac chamber.
As of now I am not using any of the hard lines from the rats nest (removed as I mentioned earlier), nor any of the pass through LIM connections. All except one boost related connection was removed and plugged from the UIM as well. The only other UIM connection I have is the PCV connection.
Since JDM FD's don't have EGR, AWS, etc it's even easier to do this if anything.
What this means is that now all of the vac hose connections are easily visible without removing ANYTHING. The solenoids are easily tested without removing ANYTHING (get the PnP harness btw). Possibilities now extend to running an aftermarket LIM, like the xcessive. It's not just for singles anymore! Of course this also means you can max out BNR's because these solenoids are rated to over 100psi if I remember correctly.
With the installation of an EBC you have now removed all of the limiting factory solenoids, and only the Y pipe and large actuator on the bottom of the turbos remain. I'm not sure what the vac and pressure chambers are limited to in PSI, and that's the only factor I haven't been able to evaluate yet.
Does the straight vac line runs cause any loss of spool or responsiveness? Absolutely not, if anything the car feels a lot snappier than it did, as these solenoids can probably respond/cycle a lot quicker than the stock ones.
Thank you Twinsinside for clarifying this as I have not deal with a JDM FD.
So tell me your impression on this Kit as I know you said it is snappier. Do you noticed anything else that's different from stock?
Guys, if you can post your thoughts in regards to the questions below, it'll be very helpful for future buyers to understand what this system can do for them if they want to stick with TWINS instead of going single turbo.
1) How would you rate the responsiveness of these solenoids?
2) How do you like the overall kit quality?
3) How was communication between you and the seller?
4) As you satisfy with this transaction?
5) Would you recommend this product to anyone close to you if they have a FD and want to stick with Twins?
Thank you all for your cooperation, comments, advices and please post pictures of your set-up if you have time.
Cheers,
-Eric Zheng
There's nothing different about the JDM FD's. On a "black box" type of FD (97 up i think) that doesn't have a rats nest it would be the same thing if you just run the vac hoses from the correct solenoid to the end location.
Would require a little more head scratching on a later model FD that doesn't have the rats nest but not much.
The section of fender beside the brake booster is a perfect mounting location for the solenoids.
Would require a little more head scratching on a later model FD that doesn't have the rats nest but not much.
The section of fender beside the brake booster is a perfect mounting location for the solenoids.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 8
From: California, SF
GB #3
1. Evopanda
2. Durrell24
3. corymarc.com
4. stubba
5. Julian
Hey guys, we've got 5 on the list now.
I will now send out PMs to confirm this GB and then once it is all confirmed. I will need everyone to send me their full payment of $664.10 (This includes: solenoid kit, PnP harness, shipping and paypal fee)
-Eric
1. Evopanda
2. Durrell24
3. corymarc.com
4. stubba
5. Julian
Hey guys, we've got 5 on the list now.
I will now send out PMs to confirm this GB and then once it is all confirmed. I will need everyone to send me their full payment of $664.10 (This includes: solenoid kit, PnP harness, shipping and paypal fee)
-Eric