Hah, NP. I believed that I checked every single harness before I had them shipped out. I, however have left out the check valves + y-splits LOL.

-Eric

 

Eric,

Received the revised PnP adaptor - looks great! Thanks.

To those that might be wondering... Everything is professionally assembled with quality parts. I was suprised that Eric ate the shipping costs on the PnP assembly mistake and that speaks volumes on how he approaches business. Here's hoping that he decides to create additional great FD products in the near future.

Scott

 

Anyone up and running with this new system?

 

I'm installing now, got my replacement harness yesterday. Got the manifold off and I'm cutting/measuring vac hose and removing stuff now. Will try to get some pics up when I get done. Hopefully I'll get it running before the weekend is over but doing some other stuff at the same time.

 

I finished installing mine yesterday, it's raining today though but should clear up around noon.
I will update you guys when I get her running.
One thing that bothers me is the way I routed the hoses makes them touch the turbos heat shield. I used hosetechniques vacuum hoses and I know they have a high temperature rating (250C i think) Is this something I should be worried about?

 

I am waiting for new manifold gasket, silicone hose and some extra high temp cable sleeving before I get started.

 

Update- So I just started the car but it revs up and down at around 2500rpms and theres a weird sound high pitched sound. I think its a vac leak somewhere

 

I'm interested in purchasing. I would like to see how the front mount location works (wire length wise)

Joe

 

Fixed the leak, my idle was stable now but now I'm getting a really weird sound coming from somewhere under the alternator.
It sounds very similar to a jackhammer, I think it might be my tensioner pulley?

 

Alright, I can at least give you guys an idea of how I mounted the rack.



I couldn't get the stock brackets to fit inside the IC support bar and since I lack the tools to make them I went to search for some at Home Depot. Here's what I found which worked perfectly. The drill bits I already had, the small one is to make a small hole and the bigger is to expand the hole to your liking, you don't need one this big.
I also used a dremel to cut part of the bracket and grind the sharp edges.

Here's a few more photos showing various angles of the support bar.


I carefully stripped some of the heat-shrink from the harness, I did this to alleviate any stress which might be caused when I routed the harness towards the support bar.


I later realized that there was bracket for the lower coolant hose here, so I later moved the bolt to the right in order to clear the bracket.


This shows the area taken up by the bracket, as you can see this bolt was going to be in the way.


I holes were drilled with the larger bit.


Part of the bracket was cut to make room for the bracket where it attaches to.


I decided to paint the support bar before putting it back into the car.
This is how I attached it, I ran the hoses under although it shouldn't matter if you route them from the top.
I also found that these bolts were perfect for the lower radiator hose bracket. If they're too long, they'll hit the solenoid box.


This is how I routed the harness, I also ran the hoses in this manner.
Note: If you're running the airpump you will need to run the harness and hoses in a way in which it does not obstruct it. You will have a hard time getting the belt into the airpump as you will not be able to push it as low as before.

I don't have any pictures of the setup with the hoses attached but if I fix the issues which are currently at hand and have tested this on the road I will take the intake box off and take some pics. I can take some as they sit but trust me, you cannot tell they are there.

 

Sorry it should be upper rad hose bracket, wheres the edit button

 

Your mounting is nice and clean. Any problems with the wire length? I think it looks better than on the right inner fender. Joe

 

No problems, the harness is plenty long. The heat-shrink is pretty thick and makes it a little hard to maneuver though but its not really a problem.
You do need to get the additional length of the PnP harness to make it work though. I'm not sure if the ones without the PnP harness are longer.

 

Guys, I have been out of the state the pass week with my fiance so I didnt have any internet access until right now.

Sephek, very clean installation. Looks very professional too! A tip to get the harness routed easily is 1) remove your loom 2) heat gun the harness and then routed the way you wanted 3) re-loom the harness

I've tried it after assembling of the PnP harness, it made it super easily and flexible. However it will be hardened after it cool off.


Joe Rajacic, if you are truely interested and are pretty much committed. Please add yourself to GB #3.

As mentioned earlier, my #1 priority is customer satisfaction. So far I believe I've done that and still am trying to make everything as smooth as possible.

If you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a pm. I will try to answer all your questions as much as possible to my best knowledge.

-Eric

 

In the process of installing and was wondering if any of the vacuum lines remove from the UIM hard nipple connections above turbos need to be capped. The reason I am asking is my CCV now with the new solenoid hooked up will not respond with the KOKO test.

I am also having similar issues I had before with my boost which was 12-5-5, never had second turbo come on line, now with new solenoids it is spiking 14-5-0, almost feels like fuel cut or something. If I remove the waste gate and prespool solenoids I get 8-6-7 pretty much all the way to 7000 rpm. My transition does not kick in until about 4800. I even tried switching the wastegate and prespool solenoid connectors around but that just caused more spikes.

I am at a loss!

I thought this set up might solve my issues but I guess it must be something else

 

Seven1997,

Maybe I can help you out with the problem. Can you PM the complete symptom. Also was the KOEO test done prior to new solenoid installed?

I need more info to be able to help you out. Let's carry this to PM so it wont fill up this GB thread. Thanks!

-Eric

 

I just took her for a spin. It was all going pretty smooth until I hit 2nd.
I felt a sudden power loss, I coulnd't get past 3k rpms. Tried 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th lol still the same thing, any guesses?

 

Check to make sure your vacuum hoses(especially the hose at MAP sensor) are connected. What happened when you took it back to first gear? Still lack of power?
Please go back and verify all vacuum hoses are routed and connected correctly.

It sounded like Limp mode you're in.

p.s. another thought: Please remove your UIM and check your harness connection to make sure all the spade connectors are securely plugged in. It sounded something came off.
-Eric

 

Yes, this only happens after 2nd gear and up.
I stopped, shifted to 1st and everything ran smooth until reaching 3k rpms.

I will check everything again tomorrow and give you guys and update.

Thanks.

 

So you are saying that in first gear, you can red line it and boost is constant and very smooth correct? If so, please verify your work. That already told me that the solenoids are working IF everything works good in 1st gear.

However, it may not be 100% true but logically yes. Therefore I am thinking the errors could be within the routing of the vacuum hoses.

-Eric

 

Yes I am interested in buying but won't get to the car until spring and won't have extra cash 'til after the New Year. Question - it would seem this would be a good time to replace all the vacuum lines. Could you help with a group discount on the hose? I would mount the rack in front as Sephek shows in the pix. Will there be any need for a longer harness? Can you see a better routing that would need a longer PNP harness? Joe

 

As Sephek described, I believe the PNP harness is plenty long enough, therefore a longer harness is NOT necessary. I personally am not selling any vacuum hoses therefore that's something you have to buy and not part of the kit.

If that's the case, just follow the current GB thread. Once you are fully ready with funds, then sign yourself up. Thanks for the interest.

-Eric

 

I re-read your statement, did you mean that

it felt like fuel-cut out once you hit 3k RPM IN ALL GEARS (including 1st, but smooth prior to 3k rpm)

IF that's the case, please report back as I dont think your solenoids are activating or somehow it is in limp mode.

-Eric

 

I didn't redline it, I transitioned around 3k.

In first gear it felt smooth all the way to 3k then as soon as I shifted 2nd there was a loss in power, (it would not accelerate even though I was depressing the accel.)

It's kind of hard to explain but I'll post a video tomorrow after I take a look at the routing for a second time.

I guess if it keeps doing this I will redline it in 1st gear and see what happens.

 

yes, please verify that even in first gear to see if transition is smooth (probably up to 7k rpm which should be fine). It just doesnt make sense if it is ok in first rev all the way and power loss second gear and on... Thanks!

-Eric