Specs on the turbo?

 

I see the plug debate still continues...

As said:
NGK plugs BUREQ(P)7 or 9 are non-gapped.
NGK plugs that were OE on some of the 1st gens could be gapped.

Colder heat range NGK motorcycle plugs can be gapped (and require a milled socket to install them in the rotor housing) and are the "right" plug for special applications (those owners know who they are).

--Ashraf (trying to catch up on several weeks of forum reading is impossible)

 

Yeah, and Racing Beat charges ya $50 for their special socket. I had there "special plugs" in my GTU once. I will never do that again. The Gap for those by the way was .015, which is next to nothing.

 

Enough to kill any miata on the road or track, even if it is they are the badest thing since sliced bread. Wait you dont need a turbo for that now do ya.

 

I just wasn't aware that this could actually be done while still keeping a normal idle. I thought it had something to do with the stock ecu missing an input signal and basically shutting down to limp-mode... and that was why a aftermarket ECU was needed because their maps remained constant. I don't really remember too clearly to tell you the truth... Hey! if its working without any ill-effects... I see no problem.



Yeah, I guess I still don't understand this... In the normal manual it clearly states that the stock plugs, which are the BUREQ(P)7's and 9's (like those^), are suppose to be gapped. I am just soo lost with this issue.

By-the-way? What are signs that a spark plug is is not tightened enough or tightened too much?

 

Step 1 - buy cheap socket
Step 2 - attack with grinder
or have buddy with lathe knock it down

 

Amazing. All I wanted to know were the tech specs on it and we have to drag the Miata back into it. Let the record state that I did NOT mention Miata first.

However, his turbo is probably not enough to "kill" a track-prepped 3rd gen and since we are dragging Miatas into the fray, a FM-II Turbo Miata can eat a stock FD for lunch.

(oh yeah, I _DO_ have a 3rd gen...it's buried SOMEWHERE in my garage...if I can just find it...)

I don't need a turbo to have fun on a track. It just so happened that a FD is what I started with and I picked up a lot of poor driving habits with it because I used power to make up for a lack of driving skills. I maintain that anyone interested in becoming a better track driver should start with a lower powered vehicle and work their way up.

 

how about something like this on the left breast, and something else big on the back

 

I'm not very creative but here ya go...sigh
oh yea, i'm going! probably with 2 other cars at least so at least 3 of us are coming from here.


edit: haha forgot the "t" is 1st...i'll change that

 

:d

 

Steve
Thanks for dragging me into a fight! I hope to do us RX owners proud on the track.

Ashraf
I dont know the specs I do know Rotorsports built it. I'm kinda turbo dumb, Its a hybrid stock turbine, and on the compressor housing it says .70 if anyone knows what all tis means please let me know

Johny

Yay I just noticed I'm first on page 100

 

will you allow those of us who are temporarily without rotor to come?

 

Hey Jeff, i called you like 3 times this weeks and left you messages, you still want me to come out and look at it?

 

yeah, im still alive somewhere... 2 jobs right now, a basicly dead car, and 2 many projects. anybody want a ae86 corolla? ha, too bad. i've got one and im keepin it! dont worry though, no money being spent in it rather than a rotary. i've got as many if not more toyota parts as Rx7's.
anyways, whats up for the cookout thing. lets get-r-done soon so we can drive while there are still leaves on the trees. they have started to change and i say 2 more weeks and they'll be full color and falling. i was talkin to steve yesterday about this. i'll be willing to buy the stuff as long as everybody that comes leaves say, 5$ for food and stuff. i was thinking that i'd get maybe 1 or 2 burgers and 2 hotdogs for everyone who comes so that everybody gets a good fill. i think if we came out i'd like for everyone to be out around 5 and we could eat and stuff and go for a little drive about 6:30 or probably vice versa thinking about it, it wont be day light savings time then, so possibly, reverse those and we'd be all gravy. ask ashraf and steve about roads out here, they're all wagon trails with pavement and paint, curvy and mountainous. in fall, its beautiful. anyways, anyone who wants can come on out, just set a date, sooner better than later for the driving part atleast. if you're not into the driving part its all good too. anyways, im gonna grab some sleep here since i need a little. i expected steve to be on but he's prolly still in the garage with a tube sock since he found out his carbed 86 sport has a 4 port motor in it tonite...... later guys

 

The airpump is an output device - hence, no input signal. The airpump relay, however, is detected open/short by the ECU and if it is missing, it doesn't like it very much. The idle is altered for a few reasons - one is that you aren't spinning that accessory, so the load on the motor is different. You also aren't injecting air into the exhaust port of the motor, which affects the combustion mixture, but that isn't much of a factor in the idle speed as it is idle exhaust smog quality.

Which manual? The owner's manual that would stay in the glovebox? If they are to be gapped, it must list a spec...and it probably doesn't. It's probably a typical Mazda typo (the FSM is riddled with poor "Engrish", if you know what I mean, and no offense to our Oriental bretheren). You can't gap the standard plugs.

Spark plugs are maybe 15 ft-lbs on the average for most motors. Overtighten = strip threads in rotor housing = bad. Under tighten = backs out and pops out = bad. You can tighten past the listed standard up to below where you would strip the threads (you would probably need to be really muscular or use a breaker bar to do that, but folks have done it before) - it just makes it harder to remove when you need to change them.

If you aren't at that stage of auto mechanics that you "feel" the appropriate torque, then use a torque wrench (kinda hard to do there in a FD) or tighten hand tight and like an oil filter, a "little" more with a socket wrench - or as my friend likes to say, use German standards = "gut-ten-tight".

Last, I would recommend that you get a stubby ratchet wrench:
1) Easier to maneuver in there in the case of a FD
2) Harder to overtighten with it

Regards,
--Ashraf

 

Sounds like a typical hybrid for a 2nd gen that bolts up to the stock downpipe and exhaust manifold with a tweaked compressor side. .70 = .70 A/R for the compressor which is pretty big if the actual compressor wheel is the appropriate size (60mm or so). A/R = Area/Ratio of the "snail". If you want more turbo smarts I recommend reading the single turbo section, looking on the net for turbo sizing info, and Corky Bell's book. You should know the specs on your turbo, for your own sake...I personally don't like bolting ANYTHING on my car unless I have a decent knowledge of what it is and how it works.

Anyhow, it sounds like it should flow more air than stock and I recall that you are going to be putting in additional fuel mods to support that extra airflow. I will be interested to see what you put down with the "special-sauce" hairdryer.

 

Hey GTUser, are you still organizing the GRR? I can help if you need any. We need to get a thread going on just GRR.....

 

Like I said before....I'm in for a cookout. Just let me know when, where, and how much. I have a bit of sad news though....

The civic got a big *** dent on the drivers side rear quarter yesterday . Was visiting my son and his grandmother pulled out and forgot my car was like 20ft behind her Ahh well...everythings all good though. Her insurance is paying for it. Wish she would have total'd it and I could pick myself up a FD Pics to come shortly.......

 

Like i said, i'm not very good but if you all want t-shirts maybe somone who can actually design and make them can play around with my ideas. Are we still doing this?

 

Totally off subject here....but do any of you guys in durham have access to like a mulcher/chipper?? Me and my buddy cut down some trees and other ****(bodies) and I need to get this out of my yard. Keeping the big stuff though....gonna have myself a nice big fire on holloween

 

well guys...looks like the FD is gonna have to go in for internal reconstruction. it seems like I am getting coolant into the combustion chamber. i dont know that much about the internal workings, so that is just a good guess on my part. heres what it did:

-the first time i cranked it after i got all the parts back in it took forever to start. and when it did it let out a significant amount of white smoke, which looked like steam, but it quickly cleared up and the car ran fine. i turned it on and off a few times and everything seemed ok afterwards.
-today i was just finishing up a few things and decided to rig the coolant neck in place so i could run it and warm up the engine. well it cranked right up with no problem, and ran fine. then i turned it off and let it sit for a bit while i played with some other stuff that needed work. when i tried to crank it the damn thing just turned over and over, but wouldnt crank. so i break out the ether(starter fluid) and remove the elbow. after a few good sprays i get it started and man the steam was flying everywhere.

with that evidence my newbie conclusion is that the coolant seals have gone and i am getting coolant into the chamber. it's white smoke but definitely doesnt have the burnt oil smell. it has the sweet odor of coolant.

i am irritated a bit but i am not too upset. a good rebuild will give me a chance to learn the car, and have a good base for future upgrades. the only question i have is, do I do it myself and save the money, but invest the next several months in time, or bite the bullet and buy a reman.?

either way the FD won't be making it to any meets in the near future. now if only i could find a good 2nd gen so i could have something rotary to keep me from jonesing too badly.

 

Damn Josh:

I hate that for you If you have a place to do it I'll be glad to help I don't know much about 3rd gens though

 

i am gonna have to clear out the garage so i can have some good clear space to lay out the parts (especially if i decide to do the rebuild myself i need a clean clear space). though, more than likely i am just gonna crack open the wallet and buy a reman. easy in. easy out. hopefully.

either way thanks for offering your help johny.

 

steve, have you ever ported a 3rd gen? how hard do you think it would be? I am just tossing the do-it-yourself vs. buying a reman around. trying to think of the pros and cons of both. the biggest pro for doing it myself seems to be about 1000-1500 in my pocket. which is enough to get a good set of rebuilt turbos. meaning the car would be 100% solid when it came back up and ready to crank out the HP.

 

No, I have never ported a 3rd gen. It is the same for any geration though, just a different template to use(different shaped port). Sounds to me like you need to call of rotorsports if you catch my drift

Steve