anyone know of any shops that do plate lapping this side of the country?


thanks

 

Place up near Rock Hill SC. lemme think about the name, it escapes me right now

 

Luis in Alabama laps plates. Get with Phil (herblenny) for contact info.

 

message sent....thanks

 

and i am sure jim downing over there can do this also

 

goopy!

 

any luck with the memory?

 

If you have any local machine shops give them a call and see if they have a parallel surface grinder. Its actually rather easy to do, I have had a buddy slip my plates in the back door and had it done for free... though it did require me to do the final finish with sand paper, took a few hours and you need a perfectly flat surface to do it. One negitive is the nitriting is most likely gone, and I never had them rehardened.

Here is an example of the machine that was used-
Another option is- 13B Side Iron Resurfacing - Turblown Engineering - shipping involved, not sure if they re harden them??

Yet another and I feel your best option, as he actully has them rehardened. http://*************.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=3109 check this thread out, tooslow does this work. post 5 has his Phone number...

 

The last link that doesn't work is to rotary car club .com. It seems rx7club won't let me post a link to them??? go to Rotary tech- general rotary engine and the thread is called Re-conditioned side plates(resurfacing and re hardening) by to slow. This phone number he posts is 248-250-0967 here is a facebook link to his work https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...5594616&type=1

 

edit-damn no pic

 

Here is a shot of the plate I had done locally.

 

If you are in GA then Jim Dowing is the closest. If he will not do them then Luis is your next best bet. Old school rotary guy. Builds a ton of motors, runs them on his stand and had a plate lapping machine built.

Did you get intouch with Phil "herblenny"

 

yeah phil just gave me his name...so ive been trying to find out where Luis is located at and a good number.

 

Try calling Mazmart 770-455-4848. See if they have time to do it. MAZMART - The Largest Mazda Parts Store They're on New Peachtree Road in Chamblee, GA

 

hey Knockers, there's a big difference in the amount of material removed between lapping and surface grinding. u might want to check that O ring groove depth. and they'll still need lapping after that surface grinding u had done.

 

The one in the pic has been worked post grinding. I mentioned that in post #8

He only took off .003-4 of an inch and did it a .0005 at a time. It had some deep seal gouging going on.

I used a large flat surface and worked it out with sand paper. I need to have them re- nitrited. I have one set in an engine that I am using right now.

1.How are you lapping them?
2.Whats the min. deth that the seal groove can be?
3. Are you re-nitriting them?? is it even nessesary with minor lapping???

I am open to suggestions, I have only done two sets. Ones in the engine I am using now and the others are sitting on the bench.

 

i've used grinding compound in between the two surfaces and work them together in a figure 8 motion. don't know what the min depth is all i know is that there is a max amount that the O rings can be crushed down and still remain inside that groove. if it's too shallow, the seal will want to squeeze in between the mating surfaces as u tighten the tension bolts. this was done many many yrs ago on old school housings before the nitride process. .003-.004 is alot when tolerances on apex seals and housing thicknesses is less than that.

just looked and the repair manual i have doesn't mention depths for that groove so u may be ok in that area.

 

In my case, I needed to remove alot of material as there was some pretty nasty gouging. I have read about people using the grinding compounds and doing it as you and thought about going that route, but choose paper instead. Think I might do it to the set I have on the bench (the one in the pic) and see if it improves the surface. What type of compound do you use?

The max outside side seal wear is .0039"(13brew) so thats amount of wear that the manual states is out of spec. Its about how much material I removed, so I don't think its much of an issue. I haven't found any info that states what the min width of the irons shoul be.

I don't see the relationship between side plate thickness and apex seal clearance. Now, housing width to rotor width( rotor running clearance) would affect apex seal clearence, especially if your using 1 piece seals. But lapping/grinding the irons won't affect that measurement, smoothing the housing would. I would be concerned with pinching the combustion/water jacket seal, but I don't think I removed enough material to cause any issues with that.

here are a few more videos I found of people fixing side plates.