It does look like it's pointing down a bit on the muffler end, that's a weird one.

If that's it I hate to say you probably need another header, I don't see how it could be bent back to meet specs.

But maybe there's a way, anybody got any ideas?

 

Well, tried to get it started up today, no fuel, so no start. Put fuel in it, fuel leak at the lines coming off the carb. If it's not one thing, it's another. lol

 

I think the way I'd fix it is to cut it at the exhaust flange, make the flange mating surface smooth, and then place the flange back on the car and then connect the rear header collector to the rear portion of the exhaust. Then place reference marks on the pipes and flange so you can weld it back up. Of course, this is an all in task.

When welding it back, do so with it on the car tacking enough to hold it. Then remove from car and weld together. Make sure the big flange is bolted/clamped down to a welding table or such so it does not warp.

 

I have no access to a welder, nor the skills to weld it together.

 

Quad you need a header. Best, fastest and easiest way out is probably just buy a new one.

Nothing makes you feel better than getting a brand new shiny Racing Beat header in the mail.

 

I'll order it. I'm tired of fighting it. Anyone with the skills wanna buy a slightly bent road race header?

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/dGU_cFDMogY

New question. This is the in-line fuel filter. Car will only run with throttle nearly fully depressed. I'm assuming this thing should be full and stay full when the pump is running right? It takes forever to fill, and seems like it isn't keeping up with demand. Do I need a new fuel pump?

 

I'd ditch the in-line, especially if it's under the hood. Extreme fire hazard.

What you got for a fuel pump? And is there a filter back there? That's all you need.

But if it's starving for gas, it's a good idea to check it, might be clogged up.

 

As far as I know, it's a stock (possibly from 82?) fuel pump. It does have a basically new filter back with it.

Does the Nikki need bled? Is it possible it's just air in the lines?

I'm also assuming when I blip the throttle, even with the engine off, I should see spray in the carb?

 

To check the nikki you can do a few things.

1. Look for leaks around the outside of the carb and dribbling in the primaries and secondaries

2. Check the gas level in the float bowls using the two view windows, it should be about halfway up the window.

3. Check the fuel output by disconnecting the feed line to the carb and putting it in a container, then turn the ignition key on. You should get about 1 liter/minute in the collection container.

4. If you have a pressure gauge measure the fuel pressure with the pump on, it should be between 3.5 and 4.5 psi.

If any of these don't check out you've got nikki problems. Let us know, there are different solutions.

 

You might try enlarging the mounting holes in the flange. Might not take that much of an increase, I'd try like 1/8 more in diameter. A little more clearance around the studs will allow it to rotate and translate to quite a bit more repositioning at the other end, given the distance end to end. The longer the distance, the greater the effect would be.

If 1/8 isn't enough you could give it another 1/16 or 1/8 in diameter. Just put some washers under the lock washers / nuts when mounting.

 

That's a great idea Banzai!

 

So, I'm not getting enough pressure to the carb. What's the best way to clear the fuel lines without an air compressor? Is there another way to test the fuel pump?

Also, what is this spring for? It's just loose. It's on the firewall side.

 

I'm afraid I don't have the tools to do that, unless you think a dremel or drill would have enough oomph. I'm probably just gonna order a new one and save myself the hassle.

 

Yes, I'd just get a drill bit 1/8 larger than the existing holes and enlarge the holes.

 

So a new one will only cost me $230. Is it worth modifying the one I have, and potentially damaging it permanently vs selling the one I have for cheap and buying a new one?


I'm also not sure if there's enough meat to really bore it out

 

$230 for a racing beat header ain't bad, I would have expected them to be more these days. Is it the same one you have?

If so, if it were me, I'd just get a new one (I do like the chrome finish, I'd go with that option).

Then either sell the one you have or donate it to good will (ie the OGTA Group).

Maybe someone there will have the ingenuity to make it work.

 

They're cutting me a deal because I bought 2/3 of the full kit at full price, but the full kit is discounted, so they're selling me the header to just bring my total paid up to the normal kit price. And they're all chrome, this one was "ceramic painted" by the guy who owned it before the guy I bought it from. Let me get the new one in and rigged up, and I'll see if the angle is better. If it works, I'll help you OGTA dudes out.

 

OK, cool Quad, thanks for the update. I think now's the time for me to get the full system for the SA we just got,

A new Racing Beat exhaust is rotary heaven. Here's the one I put on the LE:



Save your old header till the new stuff comes in and compare them side by side, that will answer the bent header question.

And yeah, OGTA's the place for bent headers, there's folks here who can work with it.

 

The new header is here. The new header works splendidly. New problem. Missing exhaust hangar bits.

https://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-...ers/16351.html

I basically need all of this, as well as another rubber hanger for the center section because mine is missing the metal insert. Also, I need the nut that holds the center section to the transmission. Does anyone know what size that is?

Next is fuel. I still gotta figure that out, but we might be at a Cars and Coffee here in less than a month!

I'm so excited.

Maybe I could trade the odd header for a new fuel pump and all the exhaust bits I need =)

 

Sounds like progress Quad!

I forgot, is your nikki stock or modified?

If it's modified you will want to get a pump and pressure setting that's right for the mods.

Tim knows all about this, he's totally made over his nikki.

 

The nikki has been "dehogged" which I'm told is basically rat's nest, air pump, and all other "unnecessary" things removed, but stock other than that. I can not confirm nor deny that. There ARE a lot of missing bits, so I do know things have been modified, I just don't know the full extent. I'm considering a Holley blue and a regulator, like I had back in the days of the the old Red GS and Black GSL-SE in Atlanta.

 

I'm not going to recommend a hauley, but it might be a good idea. You might want to check with Gene, he's a hauley expert.

I might have some of those exhaust hanger bits, if you want me to check let me know.

But given it's a shiny new racing beat system, I'd go with new bits if I was you.

 

If you've got some bits you're willing to part with, I'd appreciate it. Another $150 for exhaust bits is starting to chew into the budget.

 

I'll check Quad and get back to you. It might be a day or two, all my parts are kind of disorganized while I'm building the garage.