Old guys with 12As club meeting
08-02-12, 03:50 PM
3 12A's at least, especially if mounted on a back pack.
It is kind of strange that small rotary motors haven't invaded the 2-cycle industry and totally replaced those pesky, smokey, smelly weed wackers, chain saws and leaf blowers.
Sounds like a job for respeed.
It is kind of strange that small rotary motors haven't invaded the 2-cycle industry and totally replaced those pesky, smokey, smelly weed wackers, chain saws and leaf blowers.
Sounds like a job for respeed.
08-03-12, 05:13 PM
Those holders work great as long as you don't leave the driveway Mike.
Say, looks like you've got a nice collection of tapes there! Any Carpenters?
Say, looks like you've got a nice collection of tapes there! Any Carpenters?
08-03-12, 07:04 PM
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Ray that pic is from Aaron ( he was at the mitty in 2011, brown FB). He's meeting me tomorrow
for breakfast then we are headed down the Charlotte Cars and Coffee tomorrow morning.
You should come up for it come time.
Charlotte Area Cars and Coffee - Sat Aug 4th! NC Music Factory Uptown
for breakfast then we are headed down the Charlotte Cars and Coffee tomorrow morning.
You should come up for it come time.
Charlotte Area Cars and Coffee - Sat Aug 4th! NC Music Factory Uptown
08-03-12, 08:03 PM
Busy weekend for the socially inclined. But you know me, I'm going to get greasy.
I remember Aaron, he'd just picked up that beauty. A GS, as I recall.
But that sure does look like Mike's driveway and I know he's a big fan of '70's cassette music. That even looks like his favorite beer. You sure about that photo ID?
I remember Aaron, he'd just picked up that beauty. A GS, as I recall.
But that sure does look like Mike's driveway and I know he's a big fan of '70's cassette music. That even looks like his favorite beer. You sure about that photo ID?
08-03-12, 10:25 PM
08-03-12, 11:11 PM
Most of the "upgrades" to the FC were useless while driving Brett. Still, they are nice cars, with the Wankel and all. I don't mean to be critical.
Tim, this is Aaron, yes?
Tim, this is Aaron, yes?
08-04-12, 01:04 AM
Stogies!
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lawrenceville, GA
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[QUOTE=BrettLinton7;11178623]Wow, I can't even tell you the last time I saw a cassette tape...
Brett, let me know which ones you want. They still sell them brand new here!
Brett, let me know which ones you want. They still sell them brand new here!
08-04-12, 10:36 AM
Full Member
Man, and I've been stripping clearcoat off my wheels to get them prepped for an attempt at redoing them myself. I sure could use a few beers right now but I need water more.
Yeah, I'm jealous.
As far as tapes - I found that if you go to a Goodwill, you can actually find some decent cassettes. Pearl Jam makes for good sanding music.
Yeah, I'm jealous.
As far as tapes - I found that if you go to a Goodwill, you can actually find some decent cassettes. Pearl Jam makes for good sanding music.
08-04-12, 12:19 PM
I just finished stripping this set of X wheels that came with the White One II project. The PO had painted them black:
This is the second set I've refinished. With the first set I used some really nasty marine paint stripper and lots of elbow grease, took me a very long and miserable weekend to get it done and yes it required more than the usual number of beers.
So this time I tried a much milder paint and varnish remover from home depot that I had sitting around, bought cheap as a close out item.
It was much less caustic and mild enough you can work without gloves. At first it didn't seem to work very well and it isn't nearly as aggressive as the marine product, but I found that if I just kept reapplying, waiting 20 minutes and then hosing off it eventually removed almost all the paint and clear coat after 4 or 5 applications, no elbow grease involved beyond spreading the remover with a paint brush.
The process removed all the applied black paint as well as the underlying clear coat and original black accent paint, right down to the bright unfinished aluminum.
Overall it was a whole lot easier than the last set and the aluminum is much brighter for not having seen all those abrasives I used the first time around.
I'll finish up with some aluminum polish and very fine steel wool to remove the last residues of paint and buff out the occasional corrosion to the aluminum surface.
This is the second set I've refinished. With the first set I used some really nasty marine paint stripper and lots of elbow grease, took me a very long and miserable weekend to get it done and yes it required more than the usual number of beers.
So this time I tried a much milder paint and varnish remover from home depot that I had sitting around, bought cheap as a close out item.
It was much less caustic and mild enough you can work without gloves. At first it didn't seem to work very well and it isn't nearly as aggressive as the marine product, but I found that if I just kept reapplying, waiting 20 minutes and then hosing off it eventually removed almost all the paint and clear coat after 4 or 5 applications, no elbow grease involved beyond spreading the remover with a paint brush.
The process removed all the applied black paint as well as the underlying clear coat and original black accent paint, right down to the bright unfinished aluminum.
Overall it was a whole lot easier than the last set and the aluminum is much brighter for not having seen all those abrasives I used the first time around.
I'll finish up with some aluminum polish and very fine steel wool to remove the last residues of paint and buff out the occasional corrosion to the aluminum surface.
08-04-12, 07:54 PM
Full Member
Yeah - I didn't take the wheels ALL the way down yet. Clearcoat is off now. Possibly a new trick for some folks.
I did try the oven cleaner stuff and got *some* clearcoat off that way. I wasn't that impressed.
So I did some research, played with some ideas and refreshed some of my old chemistry. I pulled into Ace and found 'Oops Off'. Contains the necessary Xylol and Tolulene without the nasty 'eat your aluminium' stuff. Rough the clearcoat with 220/320 grit, get it good and scuffed so that in some places the aluminum is naked.
Squirt the Oops Off on the wheels when they are hot - cold doesn't work as well.
Clearcoat can be wiped off while still wet or hit with a brass brush when dry.
Of course, I learned this because I was too lazy to do it the other ways - and I haven't put the 'finished' pictures up yet because still have the black in the majority of where it should be and because I have some pits and nicks to get to still. Polished the aluminium with Mothers in the interim so it's protected, working 1500 grit with every wash. Plan is to have the wheels looking original or better before winter with a clearcoat over it. It's a daily driver, so...
On the more fun side of things:
Having a Porsche Boxster park next to your 83 RX7 GSL and have the driver say, "Nice car!": Priceless.
Also found out about some SCCA racing tomorrow over at Blackhawk Tech. Planning to go there and see if we have any wankels representing. Rumor is that they are out there. Walking with camera.
I did try the oven cleaner stuff and got *some* clearcoat off that way. I wasn't that impressed.
So I did some research, played with some ideas and refreshed some of my old chemistry. I pulled into Ace and found 'Oops Off'. Contains the necessary Xylol and Tolulene without the nasty 'eat your aluminium' stuff. Rough the clearcoat with 220/320 grit, get it good and scuffed so that in some places the aluminum is naked.
Squirt the Oops Off on the wheels when they are hot - cold doesn't work as well.
Clearcoat can be wiped off while still wet or hit with a brass brush when dry.
Of course, I learned this because I was too lazy to do it the other ways - and I haven't put the 'finished' pictures up yet because still have the black in the majority of where it should be and because I have some pits and nicks to get to still. Polished the aluminium with Mothers in the interim so it's protected, working 1500 grit with every wash. Plan is to have the wheels looking original or better before winter with a clearcoat over it. It's a daily driver, so...
On the more fun side of things:
Having a Porsche Boxster park next to your 83 RX7 GSL and have the driver say, "Nice car!": Priceless.
Also found out about some SCCA racing tomorrow over at Blackhawk Tech. Planning to go there and see if we have any wankels representing. Rumor is that they are out there. Walking with camera.
08-04-12, 08:22 PM
Zach my earliest memories of 8 track are from listening to Crosby, Stills and Nash while parked in the Tuscon foothills doing you know what, back in 1971. Love those 8 tracks.
Nice picture dude. What are you, a photographer?
Nice picture dude. What are you, a photographer?
08-05-12, 04:21 PM
If you want to drink or eat in a moving car get a Honda.Tim is right, I borrowed the picture from Aaron.
08-05-12, 08:50 PM
Full Member
Some RX7 Pics
08-06-12, 12:32 PM
Full Member
Feedback?
While I was out at the SCCA event, I ran into Steve and Randy of TripleRAutoSports.
In discussion, I asked about lubricants since I'm changing some stuff out on my FB.
He said in ripping apart motors over 2 decades, the cleanest engines he's seen running have been from Valvoline VR1. I've always used Castrol myself out of habit but based on his recommendations...
(he also cursed the beehive. No surprise, really. He also doesn't like keeping the rats nest, etc., so yeah, I got the eyerolls.
)
For the manual tranny, he explained to me that the regular gear oil actually gets squeezed out when shifting - and that Royal Purple Synchromax is what he recommends since it's wet enough (less viscous) and still coats the gears, decreasing wear.
For the diff - basically anything that works, LSD dependent - but he spoke highly of Redline.
I figured I'd toss this out there and see what feedback I'd get from you guys.
In discussion, I asked about lubricants since I'm changing some stuff out on my FB.
He said in ripping apart motors over 2 decades, the cleanest engines he's seen running have been from Valvoline VR1. I've always used Castrol myself out of habit but based on his recommendations...
(he also cursed the beehive. No surprise, really. He also doesn't like keeping the rats nest, etc., so yeah, I got the eyerolls.
)For the manual tranny, he explained to me that the regular gear oil actually gets squeezed out when shifting - and that Royal Purple Synchromax is what he recommends since it's wet enough (less viscous) and still coats the gears, decreasing wear.
For the diff - basically anything that works, LSD dependent - but he spoke highly of Redline.
I figured I'd toss this out there and see what feedback I'd get from you guys.
08-06-12, 01:23 PM
Royal Purple did not work for me in the tranny in the summer. Worked fine when it was cool out. I swithed back to Redline MTL and all is fine. I can't remember if it was Synchromax or not. I still have Royal Purple in the diff and it seems to work fine. I'll probably go back to Redline in both next time I change.
08-06-12, 03:14 PM
Full Member
Royal Purple did not work for me in the tranny in the summer. Worked fine when it was cool out. I swithed back to Redline MTL and all is fine. I can't remember if it was Synchromax or not. I still have Royal Purple in the diff and it seems to work fine. I'll probably go back to Redline in both next time I change.
08-06-12, 07:46 PM
Those SCAA event photos look like the good old days in Jeffery's parking lot during an OGTA meeting.
On the lubricants, I just go with good quality stuff, not those premium brands like Mike, who treats his FB like he shares DNA with it.
For the 12A, I use Castrol 20-50W (go a little thinner for those cold northern climes). For the gears, 90W Valvoline or equivalent will keep you humming.
Those premium brands with the fancy color names cost twice as much and are just a bunch of hype, IMHO.
Maybe good for racing, but for the average Joe daily driver, they're just part of the fear syndrome that gets us Americans spending excessive amounts of money for insurance, security systems, fire arms and other stupid things.
As long as you do regular changes (every 5-7,000 for the engine oil; once in a lifetime or every 100,000 miles for the gears, whichever comes first) you'll be good to go.
Anybody going to the OGTA meeting tomorrow night?
On the lubricants, I just go with good quality stuff, not those premium brands like Mike, who treats his FB like he shares DNA with it.
For the 12A, I use Castrol 20-50W (go a little thinner for those cold northern climes). For the gears, 90W Valvoline or equivalent will keep you humming.
Those premium brands with the fancy color names cost twice as much and are just a bunch of hype, IMHO.
Maybe good for racing, but for the average Joe daily driver, they're just part of the fear syndrome that gets us Americans spending excessive amounts of money for insurance, security systems, fire arms and other stupid things.
As long as you do regular changes (every 5-7,000 for the engine oil; once in a lifetime or every 100,000 miles for the gears, whichever comes first) you'll be good to go.
Anybody going to the OGTA meeting tomorrow night?
08-06-12, 09:59 PM
Full Member
I won't be there. =D Surprised? I was, however, with Tim up at Charlotte cars and coffee on Saturday. There were 3 first gens! One was even a 2+2. The guy had just gotten it running after 8ish? years in the pasture. I'm trying to attach a picture and this new RX7app on my phone keeps crashing. ( I'm also trying to get my post count up)
Sent from my C771 using RX7Club
Sent from my C771 using RX7Club