East Tennessee Rotary Club
hey guys. been spying your forums a bit. i have an 87 TII, (needs some lovin, but what fc dosent) i live in the k-ville and wouldnt mind coming out to your meeting oct 13, but i see no time (from what i read its at circuit city maryville?). if its not during a time of work, i would like to see your toys. will try to bring mine if possible.
Welcome to the forum's steiny, as for time and location its 6pm est and its usually at the circuit city in Knoxville. After the meet I'll be heading back into maryville to cookout, so anyones welcome to follow, since ill be a few short minutes from the dragon.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,910
Likes: 3
From: Maryville, TN
And for those not familiar with West Knoxville, it's the Circuit City on N. Peters Road that runs between Kingston Pike and Cedar Bluff. Across the street from Best Buy, Lowe's, and Wynnsong.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,910
Likes: 3
From: Maryville, TN
W00T! It liiiiives! Now it just has to scoot it's way up here. Does he have a tag on it yet?
No tag on it yet...but i said it lives, i didnt say it was road worthy yet... the throttle body is still sticking hardcore, so were gonna try and pillage one. But it went straight up to 7k without a hiccup
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,910
Likes: 3
From: Maryville, TN
Oh, I see. Lemme guess, it's sticking open and not dropping back to idle when you rev it? I'm betting the OMP is similar to the S4... check the rod that connects it to the throttle. I've had that issue with the TII, sometimes the rod gets stuck and won't snap back down, holding the throttle open.
nah, we had an issue where the throttle was stuck closed from carbon lock, and yeah, the car first started and hit 7k and wouldnt stop... hit the fuel switch and shut her down. good news is she cleaned out her pipes nice and good.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,910
Likes: 3
From: Maryville, TN
Oh, nothing a little carb cleaner can't fix then. Think it'll make it this weekend?
It might, but also tracking down other odds and ends, like why the headlights wont go up, but go down, and trying to fix a bit of the body work, still more than welcome to come and lend a hand or two
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,910
Likes: 3
From: Maryville, TN
Had the same thing happen to a friend's FB while we were working on it this week. There's a fusible link for the headlight retractors... brown box on the driver's side strut tower. There are 3 fuse wires looped out the back side of it, one for up, one for retract, and a main one. I think the top and bottom one are grey and the middle main one is brown. Sounds like at least one is blown. You can grab them from a parts car or buy new ones. Just make sure you don't use the wrong amperage as with any fuse.
thats kinda funny liz >.> we replaced the entire fusible link setup with a FC fuseblock, though prolly will go look at the actual wires. Fuel pump is a loud beast too i might add, but damn shes quiet at WOT lol
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,910
Likes: 3
From: Maryville, TN
Well that's a whole new pickle then. I've noticed that a lot of people do that and usually have problems as a result. Just more wiring to go through I guess. Good luck!
hey, whats up. need some help. ive lost oil pressure in my 1st gen. Tempted to change oil pump. ive changed the stock gauge with after market one and still nothing need some more advice before disasemble it
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,910
Likes: 3
From: Maryville, TN
No oil pressure at all? You'd notice pretty quick if there was no oil pressure. Horrible noises, vibrations, metal shavings in oil, etc. The typical failure is at the oil pressure sending unit. It could just be a bad/dirty connection, or the unit itself could be bad. If you hooked up an electric gauge then you'd still get a bad reading.


