Anyone heard any issues on using a rx8 shaft? I can't see any differeances except the oil ports are flared and one more hole drill in the center lobe. Would think it's a tad lighter. Thought I would ask before I start putting it together. Plan is to drill the motor next week pending a friends shop. Going to add eight 1/2 inch studs and the rest will be stock size studs.

 

Everyone on here says they're gold. Carlos Lopez told me they're junk when I told him I was planning to use one a few years ago. Apparently plenty of Formula Mazda guys breaking them.

 

If is made out of the same material and is lighter then is weaker.

 

Think I still have that NIB e-shaft if you want it. lol

 

I was told that el papa runs rx8 shaft. Not really sure yet what I will use. Have heard both good and bad.

 

Just curious, why q16 over e85?

 

I am really on the edge with the 2. I may try a mixture. Q16 will make the power I am after. Less headache with the fuel system also .No worries of the grade of e85.

And ray made 800+ on a similar set up to mine on a smaller turbo.

 

The rx8 shaft is the way to go, I've put 844 wheel through it many times, 700's every pass. If it bends you toss it and get a new one, compared to a 2 piece (the right way) you can replace 10 and still buy a few dinners and beers.

Know it's in many on the real fast pr cars, the radiused and oil galleries add clearance and extra oil on the bearing, win all the way arround... Lighter, can't really tell my **** revs lip fast on meth, if I can break it I'll let you know

 

Btw... I can't believe you are selling that fb ! I like that car.

 

Looks like the rx8 shaft is going in!

 

cleaned up and painted.

 

Still at it I see. Looks good.
Miss me. Still have the 7 and having fun at 65!https://www.rx7club.com/album.php?al...ictureid=57617

 

Damn good to hear from you! Wondered we're you have been! Projay typhoon? Your car looks great!

 

Looks factory.

 

Chris is the man! Let us know how the adaptronic works for you, I have been dying to mess with one!

 

stock "Turblown" studs mixed with Goopy over sized 12.5mm studs.
I have to clearance them a tad more tonight and press one more bearing then I can put it together.

Shipped the turbo to Sean @ A-Spec tuning. He builds some very quality parts. This will be the third mani I have had him do for me.

 

Question for anyone running studs.

After drilling the motor all studs drop into place easy and thread the first few threads with no resistance. However as you thread them all the way a couple started to have resistance from the clearence of the holes and bind the housing enough were you can not pull the factory dowels out. I added a little more clearence to these studs to solve. Does this sound correct?


Any thoughts before I use the same method on the rest of motor?


I can say next motor I will have them cnc'ed front to back .

 

Anyone?

 

Never used studs but IMO you cant have them do what there doing. I would bore the holes a tad more so the studs thread in easy. Undo stress on the pins and studs is not good I would think. Maybe put one plate and housing on at a time and see where it starts to bind as you install the studs. May only have to rebore the rear plate.

You use a drill press? You make sure the table was level to the drill.

 

That's exactly what I have been doing for the last few days. Only made it to the middle plate so far Using sanding drums and hitting the areas that show rubbing marks as i thread the studs. Mazdatrix says .2mm clearance. At this rate it will be a Few more days to finish.

Yes, used a friends drill press and bought a nice bit. Test drilled and leveled. I think the best way if I ever was cheap enough to try again would be to use a dummy front iron and drill it out first. Then add the stock dowels and first housing, using the front iron as a guide and drill and keep stacking..

 

The drill press I use cost me close to 650$. But it has a 5 inch stock, makes things a bit easier. Try very hard to not use the drill for anything but pinning.

Yep used a bad motor as a test motor. Must have pinned 6 or 7 tests holes before feeling comfortable doing a good motor.

 

His was the biggest one that harbor sells. $600 range also. I think the issue was the user. Well I am 99.9%.

 

Make absolute sure the engine does not bind or you will grenade it.

 

That's what I was worrying about. Well even the stock size studs bind a hair. Stock bolts slip in like butter.

 

To get the right alignment the holes should not be drilled. The factory holes in the plates does not perfectly align to the holes in the rotor housings. The drill will automaticly follow the original hole in the rotor housing and you will not get the alignment you want.