88 Vert Quick Class
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88 Vert Quick Class
Figured I would share my new open body Vert Build. Trying to keep it NHRA legal to a Quick Class. Not looking to run 7 ' s. starting at 20-25psi on e85 10's would be nice. low 9's to high 8's is the goal, I'll see what i break along the way, but input along the way is great. Here is a quick run down.
Full Bridged 91JDM Tll Motor
Rotary Works 80 mm TB
" " Titanium Stud kit
" " Electric waterpump outlet adapter
Koyo Rad
Microtech LT-10s
M&W Pro-Drag 4R
D2 Drag series coil overs
Energy suspension bushings "Black"
10 point Dragster cage
Tll drive train "Soild mount everything"
Weld Pro stars
9.5" Slicks M/T
Working on installing the cage now. My last purchases I'm in the air on and hoping to get some input.
Fuel System/ Injector sizing as I can only run 4 injectors with the 10s. Any idea if a Bridged motor will idle between 1500-1800rpm on E85 with 4-2200cc injectors?
What's a proven twin disc for lunching on two step with slicks for a good price? lots of options and I would like a company that can rebuild there product.
Turbo is going to be Bullseye from Wild Bill probably start with a Billet S400 S480 not sure yet
Full Bridged 91JDM Tll Motor
Rotary Works 80 mm TB
" " Titanium Stud kit
" " Electric waterpump outlet adapter
Koyo Rad
Microtech LT-10s
M&W Pro-Drag 4R
D2 Drag series coil overs
Energy suspension bushings "Black"
10 point Dragster cage
Tll drive train "Soild mount everything"
Weld Pro stars
9.5" Slicks M/T
Working on installing the cage now. My last purchases I'm in the air on and hoping to get some input.
Fuel System/ Injector sizing as I can only run 4 injectors with the 10s. Any idea if a Bridged motor will idle between 1500-1800rpm on E85 with 4-2200cc injectors?
What's a proven twin disc for lunching on two step with slicks for a good price? lots of options and I would like a company that can rebuild there product.
Turbo is going to be Bullseye from Wild Bill probably start with a Billet S400 S480 not sure yet
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Sounds like a nice build and good luck.
If your planning to go low 9s or high 8s, my suggestion is to remove the ecu you currently have and place it in the round square black looking thing ( in the photo you provided ) that is about 5 foot in front of your car and get another one that will allow you to run more then 4 injectors. LOL just playing with you.
If your planning to go low 9s or high 8s, my suggestion is to remove the ecu you currently have and place it in the round square black looking thing ( in the photo you provided ) that is about 5 foot in front of your car and get another one that will allow you to run more then 4 injectors. LOL just playing with you.
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Sounds like a nice build and good luck.
If your planning to go low 9s or high 8s, my suggestion is to remove the ecu you currently have and place it in the round square black looking thing ( in the photo you provided ) that is about 5 foot in front of your car and get another one that will allow you to run more then 4 injectors. LOL just playing with you.
If your planning to go low 9s or high 8s, my suggestion is to remove the ecu you currently have and place it in the round square black looking thing ( in the photo you provided ) that is about 5 foot in front of your car and get another one that will allow you to run more then 4 injectors. LOL just playing with you.
Any input on the injector sizing?
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I've ran two per driver before with no issues, but since my intake and ecu only call for 4 that's where I'm starting. I may weld in 2 more bosses in the LIM and run 2 per driver on the secondary rail. If it runs like **** then new ecu
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What size rims, and tire size on the back? Good to see someone else building a droptop!
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...-893883/page9/
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...-893883/page9/
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If you stay low imp you can only run 2 per channel I believe. So if you use 1600 cc's you can use 4 injectors on the secondaries, as well as your primary injectors for a total of 6. If you go High the LT can handle 4 per channel if I remember correctly. You can always get an injector driver box like the AEM and piggy back some extras. with a E&J or other throttlebody.
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10 point cage question? Can anyone verify the angle on a Main hoop for NHRA. Seems that from the answers I have got is no more then 6" from the back of driver and must be welded to 6x6 plates. Now I know that safety is the main here which is why I'm putting the cage in, but does it need to be 90 degrees or since it's a 10 point with other points reinforcing the cage, can it be at the angle of the door? Here are two pics to help clarify the question. Any help would be great.
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Soild Diff welded up, Polyurethane bushing everywhere, composite diff mounts front/rear. Going with Soild Aluminum motor and Trans mount, with my new D2 Drag Coil overs I'm hoping for minimum wheel hoop to save on broken axles.
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Main reason why is I'm trying to follow as close to NHRA rules and regulations. Main loop can not be more then 6" from back of driver in seated position. I'm not a very big guy so I need it closer unfortunately.
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Time to put humpty back together again. All new bearings, end rods, shift rod, bushings and gaskets. Gears, and Syncros looked great still. The force is strong with this one.