what would cause the rotors to gouge up side housings?
09-26-05, 09:42 PM
#1
what would cause the rotors to gouge up side housings?
Started a thread here https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/rebuilt-engine-boat-anchor-pics-inside-466493/ but couldnt really find an exact cause.
I had resurfaced side housings, brand new rotor housings, brand new RA apex seals, brand new side seals, new corner seal buttons, and new oil o rings for the rotors. She burned tons of oil when it first started. I let it idle for about an hour, I thought I was burning off MMO but was apparent after a while that it was oil. I then took it apart and found that the corner seals gouged the crap out of my irons along with some of the oil control rings being jammed back in the rotor. The rotor inner most area near the control rings were also rubbing against the side housings. All signs point to shitty rotor side clearance. But I just dont understand since the rotor housings are new and I tripple checked shaft end play. Any thoughts? All 4 irons are trashed and both rotors show that they were rubbing against the side housings near the ring gear/bearing/oil control ring area.
I had resurfaced side housings, brand new rotor housings, brand new RA apex seals, brand new side seals, new corner seal buttons, and new oil o rings for the rotors. She burned tons of oil when it first started. I let it idle for about an hour, I thought I was burning off MMO but was apparent after a while that it was oil. I then took it apart and found that the corner seals gouged the crap out of my irons along with some of the oil control rings being jammed back in the rotor. The rotor inner most area near the control rings were also rubbing against the side housings. All signs point to shitty rotor side clearance. But I just dont understand since the rotor housings are new and I tripple checked shaft end play. Any thoughts? All 4 irons are trashed and both rotors show that they were rubbing against the side housings near the ring gear/bearing/oil control ring area.
09-28-05, 03:14 AM
#3
savanna
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: new zealand
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
looks like your rotor gear has walked out from the rotor and abraised your plates i would think the heat and friction from this would be enough to make the rotor bite your oil seals and seize them in the rotor
09-28-05, 07:53 PM
#4
Originally Posted by savana
looks like your rotor gear has walked out from the rotor and abraised your plates i would think the heat and friction from this would be enough to make the rotor bite your oil seals and seize them in the rotor
finally a decent answer. Ill check that out and see if that indeed did happen.
09-29-05, 02:35 AM
#6
Have the rotor flanks themselves been touching the plates? If so it will be:
a) bearings are tight on the crank or
b) high rpm causing crank flex
The rotor gear should be proud of the rotor flank. Measure the overall width with a digital vernier, it should be no more than 79.80mm.
I've never seen oil seals dig grooves like that but I've seen what happens when you use S6 corner seal springs with resurfaced plates, the corner seals soon pick up and dig grooves. Maybe too much material was removed from your plates making them too soft or the finish was wrong??
a) bearings are tight on the crank or
b) high rpm causing crank flex
The rotor gear should be proud of the rotor flank. Measure the overall width with a digital vernier, it should be no more than 79.80mm.
I've never seen oil seals dig grooves like that but I've seen what happens when you use S6 corner seal springs with resurfaced plates, the corner seals soon pick up and dig grooves. Maybe too much material was removed from your plates making them too soft or the finish was wrong??
09-29-05, 06:45 PM
#7
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by Aeka GSR
is the ring gear's face supposed to be flush with the rest of the rotor or not? Im looking at it right now and i seems to be slightly raised if i run a straight edge across it.
If you don't know whether or not the gear should protude from the rotor, its pretty obvious you did not check the engine clearances before assembly. Ever thing this might be the reason your engine failed?
Why bother building an engine if you're not going to do it correctly.
Trending Topics
09-29-05, 07:44 PM
#8
Originally Posted by scathcart
I said this in your other thread a few days ago.
If you don't know whether or not the gear should protude from the rotor, its pretty obvious you did not check the engine clearances before assembly. Ever thing this might be the reason your engine failed?
Why bother building an engine if you're not going to do it correctly.
If you don't know whether or not the gear should protude from the rotor, its pretty obvious you did not check the engine clearances before assembly. Ever thing this might be the reason your engine failed?
Why bother building an engine if you're not going to do it correctly.
Didn't think it was needed with new housings and resurfaced irons. I still havent gotten my rotors to the shop to check width yet. Ill check all the clearances and report back. And I didnt see your post in the other thread, That one sunk a page or two. And to reply, I've only taken it up to 3k max, all this damage has been caused by idleing for an hour and maybe 30 seconds of driving. This is not a high performance rebuild either.
Last edited by Aeka GSR; 09-29-05 at 07:50 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
stickmantijuana
MoTeC
5
09-10-15 07:58 PM
cdn
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
14
09-10-15 06:23 AM
cdn
2nd Generation Non-Technical and pictures
0
08-11-15 08:59 PM
