I need new main bearing and i got the price to change them, it was like 75 bucks for each Stat gear to get them replaced. So i think it is cheaper and better to just go with the new Rx8 Stat gears, they come with new bearing also.

Front is like 80 bucks
Rear is like 114 bucks

The only thing that i have heard about using these is the rear o-ring and having to trim the oil input hole in the rear also.

What is it with having to mod the E-Shaft to work with the new rx8 bearing

"Bearing clearance must be checked/modified if using this with any RX-7 13B shaft" This is what mazdatrix says, The main journal diameters are approximately one-half thou smaller, and there is a one-half thou taper in the rear main journal.

I dont no how you can trim one-half thousand off the E-Shaft ???????

Anyone?

 

a really good machine shop can do it. but serously just use a new rx8 e shaft there like 200 bucks, and about 1/2 pound lighte, 1/2 pound is allot for a rotating engine part.

 

Is the Rotor Jurnels on the Rx8 E-Shaft the same size as my FD Rotors?

 

just thought about the Balancing

Can i use the FD Front and Rear Balancers

 

you should. there's balanced to the rotors specifically, right?

 

Didn't no if it was the rotors or not. Could be the Rotor + E-shaft

 

i think the counterweights are just specific to the rotors. i don't think the e-shaft matters even though it counts during the balancing process.

 

e shaft doesn't matter, its essentially balanced against itself, rotors must match counterweights and the letters on the rotors should match if possible or not be too far off. There is some minor mods required to use the rx8 eshaft, no big deal.

Just search the forum.

 

I have search the forum but there is to much conflicting info in all the other posts that i have found.

Should i just get a machine shop to take one-half off the e-shaft

 

As a machinist I will tell you that setting up and accuratly machining a .001 taper on convensional machines is damn near impossible (on an already machined surface). Crankshaft grinders may have it easier. I'm un-familar with crank grinding equipment. What the machinist solution here is to set up the part in a lathe and polish the taper into the shaft. If he is confident in his ability to use a mic and make choices concerning paper grits and removal/finish results than it is no problem. This is where your concern lies. Completely doable but make sure that your machinist knows exactly what you want as far as finish and accuracy.

If you use a crank grinder make sure the centers in the ends of your e-shaft are free of nicks and boogers. I would be there to see how accurate it chucks up. It would need to run within .0002" TIR to get a good job.