Porting tools and instructions.
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Porting tools and instructions.
I am looking to port my own engine. I need to know what kind of tools I need. Would a Dremal, or Dremal style electric tool work? Or an air powered angle grinder will be needed? Also, what type of bits will I need?
Are there any instrutions online that I can find for porting? I will have templates for the irons, but need to know how to port the intake and exhaust ports. thanks
~Dave
Are there any instrutions online that I can find for porting? I will have templates for the irons, but need to know how to port the intake and exhaust ports. thanks
~Dave
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I think its all down to what you have access too.
I use a Air die Grinder with Burs and 80's Cones. But i have it hooked up to a Masive Bodyshop compressor so i can make it turn quite slow for acurate work.
Alot of people don't have such a good compressor so the air Grinders tend to be all or nothing so the Dremal type Grinder is easyer and cheaper to use.
I supose it depend on what sort of port your doing etc dremals are good as you can get some realy fine bits for say doing a Bridge but i find there a bit to on/off for me
I use a Air die Grinder with Burs and 80's Cones. But i have it hooked up to a Masive Bodyshop compressor so i can make it turn quite slow for acurate work.
Alot of people don't have such a good compressor so the air Grinders tend to be all or nothing so the Dremal type Grinder is easyer and cheaper to use.
I supose it depend on what sort of port your doing etc dremals are good as you can get some realy fine bits for say doing a Bridge but i find there a bit to on/off for me
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I have a shop at my disposal.
I was more interested in what type of bits I will need.
Also, what do you mean by "Burs and 80's cones"? ARe they a specific type of bits?
I was more interested in what type of bits I will need.
Also, what do you mean by "Burs and 80's cones"? ARe they a specific type of bits?
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the RB porting bits are very expensive and it took me a while to realize it. however, go to the RB site to find out what bits are used for each part of the porting job. then when you have a list, buy the bits from one on the online places like mentioned above. i believe Summit Racing sells porting bits as well. a simple search with Yahoo or Google will yield all you need for other places if you feel the need to compare.
i ported an engine with a Dremel, but i don't plan to ever do it again. port with a die grinder and decent sized compressor, then do your cleanup and polishing (loose term - don't go less than 80 to 120 grit) with the Dremel. i've found that it's much better than trying to use a Dremel to port.
i ported an engine with a Dremel, but i don't plan to ever do it again. port with a die grinder and decent sized compressor, then do your cleanup and polishing (loose term - don't go less than 80 to 120 grit) with the Dremel. i've found that it's much better than trying to use a Dremel to port.
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carbide burrs are going to be expensive for the good ones. I got a 10 piece set from snap on for around 200. But if your going to do the exhuast side then make sure you use one burr for aluminum since it tends to get hot from the friction and weld itself on making it pretty useless for iron.
Also a good sanding and stone bit set is good for cleaning up and smoothing out the ports. Ive always used an air grinder and a smaller pnuematic pencil grinder for the finishing touches.
Also a good sanding and stone bit set is good for cleaning up and smoothing out the ports. Ive always used an air grinder and a smaller pnuematic pencil grinder for the finishing touches.
#9
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whats good to do when die grinding aluminum is every minute (depending on pressure) spray it with wd40 and just keep stoping from time to time and use a wire wheel to clean out the aluminum. it can cake up really quick and be impossible to get it out so just take it slow dont over heat it and pay attention! wd40 is cheap these days so if you dont wanna smoke the bit just spray it every 15 seconds and dont go high speed with the tool go slow. LESS FRICTION = LESS HEAT. hope this helps
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I use a Dremmel with a flex shaft extension & a pear shaped carbide burr on the irons & housings. The flex shaft allows you to work deep with a standard burr, so you don't need expensive long shank tools.
I work in 30-60 second sessions, then turn off the motor & cool the burr in a small cup of water. That stops the heat from getting to the tool bearings, and keeps you fingers from cramping.
I use course sanding drums for the aluminum. They cut surprisingly fast.
I work in 30-60 second sessions, then turn off the motor & cool the burr in a small cup of water. That stops the heat from getting to the tool bearings, and keeps you fingers from cramping.
I use course sanding drums for the aluminum. They cut surprisingly fast.
Last edited by SureShot; 05-02-06 at 07:59 AM.
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