porting tool?
#1
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
porting tool?
i have a heavy duty rotary tool that has a 5000 to 35000 rpm variable speed and a 120V, 1.2A 60Hz motor.....is this ok for porting or will i need an air powered die grinder? by the way....the rotary tool also comes with a flexible shaft and to me it seems to be going as fast as an air powered die grinder.
thanx,
Gufran
thanx,
Gufran
Last edited by Mr BiG G; 10-03-03 at 12:05 PM.
#2
Lives on the Forum
Speaking of which...
I got to use an electric die grinder for the first time yesterday.  It was also the first time I got a metal sliver shoot straight into my eye!  I was using a Makita with no variable speed control, so it was either off or full blast on.  It took me a few minutes to get used to it, but I got the hang of it after 5 minutes of nervous tinkering.
I used to use only air die grinders before, and they were jacked down really slow - I'd crank the regulator down to about 75psi.  The metal shavings would never fly out far enough with this slow speed.
I know mazdied likes the electric ones, but what do you guys prefer?
-Ted
I got to use an electric die grinder for the first time yesterday.  It was also the first time I got a metal sliver shoot straight into my eye!  I was using a Makita with no variable speed control, so it was either off or full blast on.  It took me a few minutes to get used to it, but I got the hang of it after 5 minutes of nervous tinkering.
I used to use only air die grinders before, and they were jacked down really slow - I'd crank the regulator down to about 75psi.  The metal shavings would never fly out far enough with this slow speed.
I know mazdied likes the electric ones, but what do you guys prefer?
-Ted
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh, that's easy.
Check this bad boy out. 70,000 RPM of rotary air tool goodness. Ray uses a straight air die grinder for the rough cut, and the "Port Master" for all the finishing work.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
Check this bad boy out. 70,000 RPM of rotary air tool goodness. Ray uses a straight air die grinder for the rough cut, and the "Port Master" for all the finishing work.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You'll want to use something that has a 1/4" shank diameter. an air die grinder is much more rugged than a dremel tool. as for cutting burrs, try MSC direct.com
do a search for carbide burrs... select one with a flame shape. I find those to work best.
diegrinders are at lowes for like 20-30$ and the burrs are gonna be 10-30$ each.
buy the double cut ones. if you are cutting aluminum with them they will clog up pretty quickly. I then run the clogged ones on iron and it helps clean them out. also using oil while cutting aluminum helps a bit
do a search for carbide burrs... select one with a flame shape. I find those to work best.
diegrinders are at lowes for like 20-30$ and the burrs are gonna be 10-30$ each.
buy the double cut ones. if you are cutting aluminum with them they will clog up pretty quickly. I then run the clogged ones on iron and it helps clean them out. also using oil while cutting aluminum helps a bit
Trending Topics
#10
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use a standard 1/4 air die grinder with carbide bits for most port cutting, and stones for finishing. For detail work and bridgeports (especially backcuts) I have a 1/8 air pencil grinder. 58000rpm (variable) and I use Dremel bits and sandpaper rolls in that.
#11
Displacement > Boost
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 3,503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dremel fan here. I'm a porting newbie. My last 8 ports were without a die grinder or carbide bits, just normal (cheap) grinding stones. The pink ones that are long and thin, for sharpening chainsaw blades are the ones I use for final port smoothing, and I use the white or orange / brown cylinder shaped ones for doing the runners and some of the port bowl.
#14
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the stencil's u can get from mazdatrix.com or from racing beat....theres a few other places i don't know of.
kick...porting isn't to hard as long as u have a stencil and u practice on a few bad housings before u do the real thing
kick...porting isn't to hard as long as u have a stencil and u practice on a few bad housings before u do the real thing
#15
Thank you for that input Mr BiG G.
I might try to do a bridge port my self on a 6 port 13b that I have. Can you do a bridge port on a 13b 6 port? I also planed on putting some pineapple racing 6-port sleeves in there also. I have some 12 housings just laying around I could practice on.
I might try to do a bridge port my self on a 6 port 13b that I have. Can you do a bridge port on a 13b 6 port? I also planed on putting some pineapple racing 6-port sleeves in there also. I have some 12 housings just laying around I could practice on.
#16
BDC Motorsports
I use a Dremel exclusively with many varying grits of sanding drums, 1/4" and 1/2" in width, on 1/8" shanks. Here's what my "newbie" tool does for me :
I've found the Dremel to be a better tool to use for this type of work because it is weaker and has less torque than your typical, pneumatic die grinder. Using the Dremel over the other, even though it takes longer, the quality of port job that's done can be substantially higher in my opinion although it may take longer.
B
I've found the Dremel to be a better tool to use for this type of work because it is weaker and has less torque than your typical, pneumatic die grinder. Using the Dremel over the other, even though it takes longer, the quality of port job that's done can be substantially higher in my opinion although it may take longer.
B
#20
Lives on the Forum
Yeah, the duct tape serves two purposes - it's there as a guide and to minimized unwanted damage on bit skipping.  Actually, I don't have too much problems with the bits skipping on me, but it's nice to know added safety.  I had the final ports done today, but hIGGI doesn't want to UL them tonight. I'll post pics of the final porting by the weekend...
-Ted
-Ted
#21
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanx for the pics and info everyone and ted...great ports.....see the thing i like about the dremel is that it's got a flexible shaft with it.....that makes it soo much more easier to handle than holding the rotary tool. is there any flexible shaft that u can use with a die grinder?
#22
Lives on the Forum
I promised pics of the finished port - compared with the stock port.
I don't mind the normal die grinder - it's angle actually helps me contour the exhaust port that way.  I was toying with the idea of going with a righ-angle die-grinder, but those things are typically expensive (like $100), and you can't find "cheapie" ones like Campbell Housefeld from Wal*Mart.
-Ted
#24
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok i got the dremel....gettin the die grinder in a couple days....getting a few motors/motor parts......im all set to port.....anyone got any more tips.....any other tools i will be needing?
PS: im gonna do a mild port for now....cuz the mazdatrix stencils are gonna take a little while to get here
PS: im gonna do a mild port for now....cuz the mazdatrix stencils are gonna take a little while to get here
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post