i have a heavy duty rotary tool that has a 5000 to 35000 rpm variable speed and a 120V, 1.2A 60Hz motor.....is this ok for porting or will i need an air powered die grinder? by the way....the rotary tool also comes with a flexible shaft and to me it seems to be going as fast as an air powered die grinder.

thanx,
Gufran

 

Speaking of which...

I got to use an electric die grinder for the first time yesterday.&nbsp It was also the first time I got a metal sliver shoot straight into my eye!&nbsp I was using a Makita with no variable speed control, so it was either off or full blast on.&nbsp It took me a few minutes to get used to it, but I got the hang of it after 5 minutes of nervous tinkering.

I used to use only air die grinders before, and they were jacked down really slow - I'd crank the regulator down to about 75psi.&nbsp The metal shavings would never fly out far enough with this slow speed.

I know mazdied likes the electric ones, but what do you guys prefer?



-Ted

 

Oh, that's easy.

Check this bad boy out. 70,000 RPM of rotary air tool goodness. Ray uses a straight air die grinder for the rough cut, and the "Port Master" for all the finishing work.

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

You'll want to use something that has a 1/4" shank diameter. an air die grinder is much more rugged than a dremel tool. as for cutting burrs, try MSC direct.com
do a search for carbide burrs... select one with a flame shape. I find those to work best.
diegrinders are at lowes for like 20-30$ and the burrs are gonna be 10-30$ each.
buy the double cut ones. if you are cutting aluminum with them they will clog up pretty quickly. I then run the clogged ones on iron and it helps clean them out. also using oil while cutting aluminum helps a bit

 

can i use those carbide burrs with a dremel tool?

 

are rotor housings made of alluminum?

 

Here is what I use:



with these two for the intake plates:



and I wish I would've found this one for the intake port tunnel:


For the housings:

 

can't u use them carbide burrs in a dremel?

 

The Dremel is slow - which might be good for beginners.
Once you have used a 1/4" tool, you'd be surprised how much faster it is.


-Ted

 

I use a standard 1/4 air die grinder with carbide bits for most port cutting, and stones for finishing. For detail work and bridgeports (especially backcuts) I have a 1/8 air pencil grinder. 58000rpm (variable) and I use Dremel bits and sandpaper rolls in that.

 

Dremel fan here. I'm a porting newbie. My last 8 ports were without a die grinder or carbide bits, just normal (cheap) grinding stones. The pink ones that are long and thin, for sharpening chainsaw blades are the ones I use for final port smoothing, and I use the white or orange / brown cylinder shaped ones for doing the runners and some of the port bowl.

 

Over all how hard can porting a motor your self be?

 

where can you get the stincil patterns for the porting or do you do what you think looks good????

 

the stencil's u can get from mazdatrix.com or from racing beat....theres a few other places i don't know of.

kick...porting isn't to hard as long as u have a stencil and u practice on a few bad housings before u do the real thing

 

Thank you for that input Mr BiG G.
I might try to do a bridge port my self on a 6 port 13b that I have. Can you do a bridge port on a 13b 6 port? I also planed on putting some pineapple racing 6-port sleeves in there also. I have some 12 housings just laying around I could practice on.

 

I use a Dremel exclusively with many varying grits of sanding drums, 1/4" and 1/2" in width, on 1/8" shanks. Here's what my "newbie" tool does for me :







I've found the Dremel to be a better tool to use for this type of work because it is weaker and has less torque than your typical, pneumatic die grinder. Using the Dremel over the other, even though it takes longer, the quality of port job that's done can be substantially higher in my opinion although it may take longer.

B

 

Rough cut Stage II exhaust port in 39 minutes with a Makita electric die grinder...




-Ted

 

Hey, I see I'm not the only one that masks the rotor housing off when porting. Good move, Ted.

B

 

very nice ports.

 

Yeah, the duct tape serves two purposes - it's there as a guide and to minimized unwanted damage on bit skipping.&nbsp Actually, I don't have too much problems with the bits skipping on me, but it's nice to know added safety.&nbsp I had the final ports done today, but hIGGI doesn't want to UL them tonight. I'll post pics of the final porting by the weekend...


-Ted

 

thanx for the pics and info everyone and ted...great ports.....see the thing i like about the dremel is that it's got a flexible shaft with it.....that makes it soo much more easier to handle than holding the rotary tool. is there any flexible shaft that u can use with a die grinder?

 

I promised pics of the finished port - compared with the stock port.

I don't mind the normal die grinder - it's angle actually helps me contour the exhaust port that way.&nbsp I was toying with the idea of going with a righ-angle die-grinder, but those things are typically expensive (like $100), and you can't find "cheapie" ones like Campbell Housefeld from Wal*Mart.


-Ted

 

awesome looking port jobs all around guys, good work.

 

ok i got the dremel....gettin the die grinder in a couple days....getting a few motors/motor parts......im all set to port.....anyone got any more tips.....any other tools i will be needing?

PS: im gonna do a mild port for now....cuz the mazdatrix stencils are gonna take a little while to get here