Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Ok here we go......



There has been alot of talk on here about porting, and i really have'nt found a central source for the info on how to port. This is not for what type of port to do, nor what not to do.

The next few days i will show you how to do a Half Bridge Port to a FD 13B

There will be 3 Parts to this

#1 Rotor Housing Porting
#2 Secondary Intake Bridge Porting / Rotor Housing Notching
#3 Primary intake porting

Keywords : Porting Bridgeport Bridgeporting Street Port Race Port Exhaust

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!SAFETY FRIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You will need a die grinder, if you can get both a big and small one then that is great, you really need both to do a good job. You can get away with the big one for the Rotor housing. You also will need alot of different bits, I really dont no witch you have to have, just try and get a asortment.



Ok here is the order that i do things, again this is just my way.

#1 ROTOR HOUSING PORTING

Step one scribe your port template onto the Rotor housing, Ether spray paint the housing or use a Black marker to help show the line. Make sure that you line the template up like it needs to be. Most places will give you some input on where. You can see the black marks on the Rotor Housing that i made to line mine up.



Then from the out side of the motor you will start your porting




It is a good idea to use two hands with the die grinder, use a leather glove with some oil on it so you dont burn your hand



Also use a clamp so you dont have the rotor housing, this will save your butt.



After you get the porting very close to the line, DONT GO TO THE LINE, just before the line



Now make sure that the insert is about the same size as the port you just grinded out

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Now it is time to start the smoothing process. Start buy cleaning up the exhaust insert.









Now start to smooth the bottom edge of your port. You want to make the transision that smoothest you can.





Now that you have the bottom done start with the top, you want to make the on-to transition smooth as possible agian, this will add many miles on your motor if you take your time in this area.





Now that you have that done, it is time to really smooth it out, and feel for anything that is not perfect. Use some oil on the housing with some 800-1000 grit wet/dry sand paper




Work the entire port over as long as you think you need to.

AND THAT IS IT, You should have a very nice port done, just start agian with your other rotor housing.




I will be back tomarrow to show you how to do a Bridge Port, and How to notch the rotor housing to get the max out of your porting.

theflatlander

iTrader: (3)

you gonna bevel that port?

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

on the last picture to the left it looks like you went a little nuts on the left side...

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

Chuck we really need to get you a smoother exhaust port template. You should also get a Dremel with the extension that basically is the size of a pencil. That way you can get any edges real smooth controllably without worrying about digging into the housings. You can also get inside the runners much easier. The main porting is fine with the die grinder but you really need something small with finesse to do the finish work.

Beveling the closing edge of the exhaust port is way overrated and not always necessary. It is a myth that it will always chew up apex seals. It can but it doesn't have to. The only engines this happens to are the ones where people got too greedy and ported the exhaust ports overly wide which leads to little support area. If you ported the exhaust properly, you don't need it. A small bevel (1/8") is good for flow but a large one (1/4") is not better. I have seen people break the top half of apex seals and blame it on the exhaust port closing edges but detonation can do that to the seals too. A bevel on the closing of the intake ports is also unneccesary unless you get too greedy and open them too early.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

There is a small bevel on the closing edge, I also check the clearance with a new apex seal to check the lip.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

You mean on the inside of the port, yea. But that doesnt really matter what the inside looks like, Yes if you can get it really really smooth it will cut down on carbon sticking to it.

I really worry about the smoothness where it mets the housing and the closing lip.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

i'd just like to echo the sentiment about getting a Dremel to do the finish work, not just because it's what i do, but because i do believe it makes for better control when polishing. aside from that constructive criticism, i love what you did. i give you even more kudos for initiating a "How To -"-thread on porting. i always thought this board could do with a dedicated porting/building section, like you know where. maybe this could start it off. moderators???

as for the beveling, i'm a firm believer in them, but i do agree that they are not needed if you don't go ape-**** with port width. so i think Rotarygod is spot on with his assessment.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

The Exhaust Port Template that i use is a Racing Beat race port one.

What do you mean by smoother template?

This is not my first bull ride (Texas joke, wink wink)

I have done enuff of these ports to be able to do nice ports with my steady hand and the big grinder, but i do have a small one with a Shxt load of carbide bits for it. I really use the small one for intake porting, I HAVE NEVER used the big one on a intake port, you can slip easy with the big one. It may take 2X longer with the smaller die grinder but you get a very very nice finish.

But yea the Dremel attachment is nice, but i just dont need it. I use my finger and sandpaper where i want to really get closes.


Thanks RotaryGod


AGIAN I JUST WANTED TO SHOW SOME OF THE NOOB's THAT HAVE NEVER PORTED BEFORE WHAT THEY NEED TO DO IF THEY WANT TO TRY IT FOR THERE SELF.

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

Noob checking in, good work chuck! Hey there Fred
I don't know what I'm doing in here so i'll just be on my way...

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Dude

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

Please don't think I was criticizing you chuck. I wasn't. I just see that big cumbersome sanding device you are using and am just saying that there is a much easier more way to do it with more finesse.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

NO NO Dude, i wasnt thinking that.

I have smaller sanding discs for my small grinder

BDC

Good stuff. Great post. Glad to see the SAFETY FIRST!!! being splashed all over the top of the post, also. Can't ever go wrong with that. Infact, I almost ruined my left eye a couple of years ago when I got an iron splinter stuck in the lens. It began forming rust and enabled conjunctivitis. $150 from an emergency procedure and 2 weeks later on anti-biotics...

B

BDC

I agree. I use an 1/8" shank tool (Dremel-type) for my porting. While it is admittedly slower, I believe it yields much more fine results with less screw-ups.

B

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Dude i had one in a LONG time ago, like when i was 14 or so, I dont want to EVER have that happen agian, it totally sucks.

One other thing on the 1/8 shank, I use it for everything except the rotor housing. I just like how the rotor housing come out with the big one. But it would be perfect with a smaller one.

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

I do all of my main porting with a die grinder but all finishing work or bridgeport work gets done with a Dremel.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

OK i no i said that i would have the next part done today, well I had to go to work sorry, but i did have some time to work on it today

Ok here is your standard FD Secondary port



Here is how much you will be adding to this port




Apply something to the Iron so that your marks will show up better, Magicmarker and flat black paint works well.



Use something sharp to scrib the patter onto the Iron







Take a drill and put small holes INSIDE THE LINES, i have seen some people messup with this




On the upper sets of holes, you start to run out of stock runner, so you need to drill at a angle so you dont hit the water jacket





Now the easy part, Use the DRILL to attach all the holes you have just drilled. Just go side to side untill they touch each other






This is as far as i got last night, was working on painting my engine bay. Will finish tomarrow night

AF_H1VLTG3

Interesting, pics are great. Cant wait to see the final result.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Final result of the entire car, or the porting

2a+RoN

I got a metal shaving in my eye a couple years ago from doing my bridge-port irons. Ironic thing is they used a mini die grinder to get that rust out of my eyeball!!

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

couple questions as far as getting some templates... what companies have some and what sizes do they have? also the 13b and 20b have the same housings right? meaning you can use the same templates... i always wondered that!

i just wanted to say this is a great thread so far!!! props for putting your ***** out there

-Lance

rajahFD

That's an awesome write-up, thanks for the info as I'll be using this in an up-coming project. Again, great work.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get your template from?

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

^ i believe he stated its a Racing Beat race port template.

rajahFD

Ah, thanks, over-read that I guess.