Nice AFR for FD
Nice AFR for FD
Hi, I am french and in France we haven't a lot of rx7 and no shops to tune these cars...
I write my setup just under :
- rebuild engine (but not streetporting)
- apexi power fc + datalogit
- turbo kit garrett T04R with an A/R 1.00
- AST re amemiya
- fuel regulator aeromotive
- fuel rails sard
- injectors sard primary 800cc et secondary 1000cc
- fuel pump walbro 255 lph
- radiator koyo
- fmic greddy
- hks twin power
- boost controller greddy profec b spec
- hks turbo timer
- nology hotwires
- ngk park plugs #11
- OCT greddy
- catback apexi
- midpipe
- ACT clutch kit
- ACT flywheel + counterpound
- BOV tial
- wastgate synapse
- suspension tein super street
- wheels volk gtf
- tires R888 for rear et t1 sport for front
Someone can help me to tune the car and tell me the good afr for cruise and in full boost ??
Thanks in advance.
Jérome
I write my setup just under :
- rebuild engine (but not streetporting)
- apexi power fc + datalogit
- turbo kit garrett T04R with an A/R 1.00
- AST re amemiya
- fuel regulator aeromotive
- fuel rails sard
- injectors sard primary 800cc et secondary 1000cc
- fuel pump walbro 255 lph
- radiator koyo
- fmic greddy
- hks twin power
- boost controller greddy profec b spec
- hks turbo timer
- nology hotwires
- ngk park plugs #11
- OCT greddy
- catback apexi
- midpipe
- ACT clutch kit
- ACT flywheel + counterpound
- BOV tial
- wastgate synapse
- suspension tein super street
- wheels volk gtf
- tires R888 for rear et t1 sport for front
Someone can help me to tune the car and tell me the good afr for cruise and in full boost ??
Thanks in advance.
Jérome
Thans barban, effectively in France petrol is 98 RON and 87 MON...
What do you recommend me for the fuel pump ??
Do you think it is dangerous my engine has just a rebuild and not a streetporting or a raceporting ??
What do you recommend me for the fuel pump ??
Do you think it is dangerous my engine has just a rebuild and not a streetporting or a raceporting ??
I would start off on the rich side and keep an eye one knock and egt, also don't go too wild with timing to start with, so lets say run around 10-10.5 at 1 bar and lean it carefully out to 11-11.5 max and keep a very close eye on knock. if EGT's are really high timing is probaly too retarded
for fuelpump my choice would be a bosch 044 fed by the stock intank pump with a decent swirl pot. or mount the 044 in tank for simplicity
but if I would live in france I would not be driving RON98, E85 is cheap and available =)
for fuelpump my choice would be a bosch 044 fed by the stock intank pump with a decent swirl pot. or mount the 044 in tank for simplicity
but if I would live in france I would not be driving RON98, E85 is cheap and available =)
thanks rub, but in france it'is difficult to find someone to tune in 98 RON...also in E85...IMPOSSIBLE
Moreover, i have lot of friends who have supra mk4 with tune at E85 and all motors dead...
Moreover, i have lot of friends who have supra mk4 with tune at E85 and all motors dead...
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Why the motor would die from running E85 once tuned well? We are running a carbed 250cc wankel for go kart with E85 (tanked in France =), works very well, keeps the rotor and bearing much cooler than with gasoline
Id say start with looking at the AFR, keep them high, at around 10.5 at WOT and keep timing stock, then you can start mapping it leaner but then you need to start looking at your EGT, especially when adjusting the timing. Not all that into rotor AFR values but when we (the company i had) was tuning cars we went no higher then 12.5 on 98 RON and told the owners to run V-Power just so that we knew that they had a margin. As stated i guess 11.5 is as lean as you'd want to go when tuning a rotor. Moving on to E85/Ethanol is another question since knock isnt as easy to spot as when running petrol.
Wouldn´t care too much about AFRs, it they are in the range of 10-12.0.
You should have a look at your timing and egt first, tune until you can see slightly (!) knock, retard timing a few degrees. When your egt is still ok, you can lean out a bit. In fact i won´t target for max. egt higher than 850°C to be on the safe side, so you´ll automatically end up with a afr way lower than 12.0
You should have a look at your timing and egt first, tune until you can see slightly (!) knock, retard timing a few degrees. When your egt is still ok, you can lean out a bit. In fact i won´t target for max. egt higher than 850°C to be on the safe side, so you´ll automatically end up with a afr way lower than 12.0
You make that sound easy Fossekh.
Are you saying that all one needs to do is tune for 850c EGT through the rev range...then adjust AFR whist maintaining 850c EGT?
or did i read that completely wrong.
Would this still be applicable for pre throttle WI
Are you saying that all one needs to do is tune for 850c EGT through the rev range...then adjust AFR whist maintaining 850c EGT?
or did i read that completely wrong.
Would this still be applicable for pre throttle WI
.. the only e85 worth hard edge tuning for comes out of a drum..
hard tune for e85 and find you are served e70 isnt going to end well unless you have flex fuel sender ( and capable ecu ) and multiple tunes to cope
No porting is better 
AFR for cruise above 2000rpm 14.7:1
AFR for idle between 11.5 and 14.7 depends what runs smoothest
AFR for 0psi = 12.5:1
AFR for 5psi 11.5:1 and hold that constant all the way up to 20psi.
Timing for idle standard... -5BTDC/15 split.
12 is safe for split everywhere above 1500rpm.
Timing for 0psi = 24 degrees. Remove 1.5 degrees timing for each PSI of boost.
That will get you to a safe starting tune to play with.

AFR for cruise above 2000rpm 14.7:1
AFR for idle between 11.5 and 14.7 depends what runs smoothest
AFR for 0psi = 12.5:1
AFR for 5psi 11.5:1 and hold that constant all the way up to 20psi.
Timing for idle standard... -5BTDC/15 split.
12 is safe for split everywhere above 1500rpm.
Timing for 0psi = 24 degrees. Remove 1.5 degrees timing for each PSI of boost.
That will get you to a safe starting tune to play with.
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Jeff20B
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