Is any one out there running a Meziere CONSTANT duty electric water pump ? , can you post some pics of your setup and maybe give a short discription of the installation ?, thanks.

 

If been running one for 5 months now (WP336; 55 gpm, simgle inlet and outlet), without issue in my FD. Of note, my car is not a daily driver though, so I only have about 1500 miles on the setup to date. I have the pump mounted to the passenger side framerail, with the inlet below the centerline of the engine. The pump outlet needs to be located higher than the inlet to ensure the pump won't air lock. I am also running a 20-22 psid radiator cap, and the pump appers to have no issue with this pressure.

Are you planning to gut the OEM waterpump and splice the pump into the lower radiator hose? If so, be careful about the heater return and turbo return hoses that will now be on the high pressure side of the pump. You will reverse the direction of coolant flow through your turbo (if your running one?) and heater core.

I do not have a digital camera, conventional camera, or scanner (wow, I need to join the 90's), so the only picture I can post is one someone else tool of my car at MRR.

Glenn

 

Oh, I forgot to mention, in the picture, the pump is located where the stock air box would normeally be.

Glenn

 

Thanks for your reply , cant see much in the pic though. Which of the adapters did you use ? , how did you run the turbos' water lines and how did you incorporate the filler cap , did you remove the entire water pump / thermostat housing ?.

 

Sorry for the poor pic, but it is all I have.

I made my own thermostat housing that mounts to the engine in the same location as the OEM water pump housing (machined for a block of 6061-T6 AL). It was machined for a GM high flow thermostat and repositioned the alternator to the six rib belt (I eliminated the air pump, so moving the alternator allowed me to only run one belt). Meziere sells a rotary adapter that mounts in the same location, but you would need to run their dual outlet pump and find an inline thermostat housing. You would also need to locate the thermosensrs somewhere as well as fabing up a alternator mounting bracket.

For the radiator, I designed a custon 2.25" thick unit which Griffin built. On the low pressure side, I added a nipple for the heater return, another for the turbo coolant return, and another for the expansion tank return lines.

For the radiator cap, I am using a Canton expansion tank which accepts GM/Ford radiator caps. You can see it in the picture, centered above the intercooler. It is mounted as the high point int he system so air is trapped by it and vented to the overflow bottle. The throttle body coolant hardlineline (I have the TB bypassed though) which run across the top of the engine, is connected into the expansion tank as well.

My setup eliminated the coolant bypass circuit that I believe leads to a lot of rotary overheating problems.

I will try to borrow a digital camera next week and tale some pics if you like.

Glenn

 

Marcel,

I managed to borrow a digital camera for the evening, so attached are a few shots i took.

 

Some more

 

Thanks for the pics man , still cant see the water pump though. How did you mount your alternator ?, I'm thinking of hollowing out the water pump housing to the alternator where it is , I dont want to give up my power steering or a/c.

 

Hey guys, check this out. I've been trying to find all the parts in this setup. Since I dont run p/s or a/c I thought this would be a good setup. You guys happen to know where to get this alt conversion stuff? The waterpump adapter is from Meziere, but Keith at KG parts also sells it...dont know who is cheaper.

Here is the pic.....

 

Marcel,

I tried to brighten the two water pump images. It is mounted on the passenger side framerail where the OEM air box would be. I would need to remove my ari box an intercooler if you need better definition (and I would need to borrow a camera again).

I am also attaching an image of my thermostat housing, onto which I mount my alternator. Since I am not running an air pump or the stock water pump, I moved the alternator forward to the six rib belt. I am also running PS and AC (although I haven't evacuated and recharged the AC system yet) on the same belt.

Gutting the stock water pump housing is an option, but you will need to relocate the turbo, heater core, and TB return lines. I originally planned to go that route, but ultimately decided against it.

SPOautos, I don't know where you could buy that alternator bracket, but it looks like it mounts were the PS pump normally is. It probably wouldn't be too hard to fab your own bracket for that location. It also looks like they just removed the six rib pulley from the e-shaft.

Glenn

 

That is not the Meziere water pump adapter. The Meziere adapter has dual inlet hoses.

 

Who makes the alternator bracket ??

 

I will be using the Pro Jay intake so that I wouldn't need all those lines , I would like to retain my PS and maybe the A/c too.

 

I've ditched my p/s and a/c so I'm not worried about it. I REALLY wish someone knew where to get that alt relocaton stuff, I'd really like it since it comes with a tension pulley and everything!!!

Stephen

 

I'm sure it would be a "Japan Only" part .

 

If any of you guys are thinking of doing away with the stock pump where do you plan on relocating teh coolent sensors that are on the pump housing???

Any ideas?

Stephen

 

An inline filler neck would be required on the return line , I am thinking of using a large brass "T" with the appropriate fittings , or even an aftermarket aluminum one , it would ge easy to drill and tap the body or even wel do a bung or two and put in the sensors in.

 

I guess the filler neck also needs to be at the highest point of the system (higher than the engine).

Just went on a little search and check out what I found on a airplane website, its an electric water pump adapter that goes where the stock pump went and has sensors and everything......



Also, here is the actual page with some information
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/1...ry_engine1.htm

The only thing is I wish it used AN fittings instead of rubber hose. You would think it would being on a airplane

 

I have all my senosr mounted in my thermostat housing, but the low coolant level switch, which I located in the expansion tank.

As for why no AN/braided steel coolant lines an airplanes; weight. Silicane is light and also very durable.

Glenn

 

Sorry, bad typing, silicon not silicane.

Glenn

 

It’s not the Meziere WP adapter, but Meziere does sell both single and dual inlets. Part numbers are WP90 and WP91 I believe.

 

So how would this work? Use the AN line adapter bolted right to the front housing along with something similar to an ast as a filler neck (since it has a cap) also mounted up high on the font housing using the bolt holes where I remove those waterpump housing studs.

How does that sound?

 

I think the simplest way , would be to convert the existing waterpump housing to work with the external pump. This would allow you keep the alternator and power steering pump in place and put the water pump where the a/c compressor was. I would just make a block off plate for the pump and weld in the various AN fittings that I would need.

 

Meziere's WP adaptor is made to use with either standard fittings or an fittings. Meziere also sells several recovery tanks. You have to search around. Meziere used to have everything on their web site, but they have updated their site and it is still under construction. Summit carries Meziere's products and so does Jegs. You have to mount the tank at the highest point in the cooling system to bleed air. This will vary in every application (depending on the room you have to work with in your engine bay). A nice place (if you don't have you ABS anymore) is where the abs used to mount.

 

Keeping the stock water pump housing would be the way to go. Not because of the ability to keep the PS and AC, but because you can keep the stock thermostat and housing. The one problem you will run into when trying to set up an electric water pump is the thermostat problem. It is a huge problem, and it has had me frustrated for months trying to solve it. I called Mezeire and talked to one of their reps. He advised me to just run with no thermostat. I thought about this for a while, but after talking with some people that run no thermostat I realized it was definitely not worth the hassle. It is just as bad to boost on a cold rotary, as it is to overheat it. Next I thought about using a Mocal oil cooler thermostat. I have never taken apart a Mocal thermostat, so I have no idea what the actual thermostat itself looks like. If you could swap in a stock thermostat this would work perfect. In order for the car to warm up properly coolant has to flow through the housings and only the housings. If you let it run through the whole system the car will take forever to warm up. Next I found this http://www.batinc.net/files/pump.pdf (go to the very bottom of the page) . This little setup seems perfect. I only have a couple of concerns with it. The first being if the pump is turned on at startup. The pump has to be turned on upon startup in order to prevent the water in the block from boiling. I called a sales rep for the American dealer of these. He didn’t really have an answer for me. First he tried to tell me that thermal expansion would be enough to move water through the block. Then I informed him that when rotaries overheat the coolant seals go, and that it is too much of a risk to rely on thermal expansion to move water through the block. After talking to him for a while he gave me the e-mail to the company to ask them if the pump is on at startup. I still havn’t e mailed them, but ill get on it soon. The next thing that concerns me with this setup is the pump itself. On their web site they say the flow rate is 300-1300 gal/hr this converts to 5GPM and 21.667GPM. The Meziere pump is definitely a quality piece, and it flows 55GPM. If I could some how use their water pump controller to control the Meziere water pump I would be happy. I am also concerned with running the Meziere pump at low voltage. It is not made to be run at anything but 12V, and lower voltages could cause it to not operate properly. That’s how far I have gotten so far. I hope it helps clear up some things.

Dave