Anyone who is thinking of doing this to an FD and is interested in relocating the alternator please post in this thread!

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...64#post4539764

 

any updates?

 

Which one of them did you go with , didnt they say that their pumps were RACE only ??

 

Has anyone thought of doing this while retaining the a/c or is that out of the question? I dont care for pwr steering or nothing ealse but it gets extremely hot in florida during the summer.

 

Question is, once you get rid of the water pump housing/thermostat housing, where do you mount all the sensors? Level, thermosensor, etc...

 

1) Heater core return
2) Turbo coolant return
3) Temp sensor
4) Coolant filler

What did I miss?

 

The heater core is gone.
I have the following sensors I need to mount some place/
1)Coolant level sensor
2)Coolant temp (factory)
3)Coolant temp (aftermarket gauge)
4)Coolant temp (water pump)
5)Coolant Thermoswitch!!!

That's a lot of sensors without a whole lot of places to mount them.

 

Glassman, i found someone to make my brackets to move my a/c compressor back and to mount my alternator with an adjustment to tention the belt.im keeping my heater core, off the top of your head could that make it easier to find room to mount your sensors?

1)Coolant level sensor
2)Coolant temp (factory)
3)Coolant temp (aftermarket gauge)
4)Coolant temp (water pump)
5)Coolant Thermoswitch!!!

I want a/c, thats it! no ps, no wp, smog, notta but i gotta have a/c.

 

the heater core will help cool too because it is more liquid volume.

 

Several contributors to this thread have asked me about my (DC EWP) setup. I recently addressed sensor mounting, and though it might add to the discussion...

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...IC+RACER+gt40R

Check out the entire thread for more pictures (including EWP Controller mounting, et.) and comments on my design.

The only issue that I have in the backburner is the coolant level sensor, which I do not give a high priority (with a reliable coolant temp gauge.)
.
.
.
.
.
.

 

I am running a power fc, doesnt it need to read the coolant temp switch? if so can i trick it with resistors?

 

are electric water pumps realiable for DD?? i also have a 2nd gen and build a supercharged motor! think it would be a promblem with the EWP?

 

Meziere is the only brand that claims you can "street" it.
I don't think the EMP / Stewart Warner units claim this also.
I don't know of any outside of those two brands.

This is actually a pretty good thread.
I just picked up a Meziere 55gpm unit with the 13B adapter, and we're going to try and run it on our 20B.
I had looked at this thread before for reference.

The only question is to run a thermostat or not.
I was thinking about going Spal FAN-PWM, cause you can set 50% and 100% temp triggers to get around the stagnant coolant problem, but I think a thermostat might be a better option.


-Ted

 

I do too , I also think (I could be wrong ) that the high flow of these pumps is actually too much of a good thing since the coolant flows through the radiator too fast and doesn't reject enough heat , there needs to be something in the system to slow down the flow . It is suggested to use a thermostat for this and to drill two 5 mm holes in it to allow flow before the thermostat actually opens thereby avoiding the "stagnant coolant problem" . I also plan to convert my KOYO rad into a triple pass one , so that the coolant would actually spend more time in there and ALL the water would be exposed to ALL the cooling tree times instead of just once in the once through design.

 

Check out this electric water pump made specifically for the rotary engine requiring no adapters to work.------>


http://www.eastcoastparts.com/

 

But you still have to use the ugly water pump housing!

 

Never thought that 'looks' had anything to do with the benefits or ease of installation when using an EWP. With the stock water pump housing you retain everything that's needed for a daily driver. No need to fab hose fittings or worry about where to relocate the thermostat to for example.
I guess to each their own!

 

U R D MAN!!

 

One of the benefits of having a CNC guy close to your shop that loves rotaries not to mention he had no choice in converting to the triangle power being an ex Toyota 2JZ lover too.
Coming soon an extremly light weight rotor(under 6lbs) that if it works succesfull it's going to rock the rotary community. It's allready past R&D.

 

any word on flow rate, current draw, any and all other operating parameters on the EWP that bolts into the stock housing?

 

I was told it use a 55gpm CSI motor.

 

What about alternator belt clearance issues , if the pupms impeller is to be mounted where the stock one goes in the housing , wouldn't the motor be in the way of the belt ?

 

When your modifying to this extent ease of installation is pretty low on the priority list. At least it is with me.
Removing the housing free's up some space and saves a few pounds in the process. Switching to braided line for coolant hoses also reduces the risk of a blown hose gernading your motor.

 

I'll be keeping my water pump housing and thermostat and using braided hose too! , Glass man , do you have any pictures of how and where you mounted your mump ?, mine will be going where the AC compressor was!

 

how does that work, when the rotor is lighter, where is the pros and cons about that