such as apex seal wear, housing wear, loss of compression after 20k miles. Can they last 50k miles without worping or eating housings like ra seals?

 

mose people say that aftermarket seals are crap, and not designed to work with housings, ending up chewing them.

 

save your self the time and go with stock. most/all race teams run stock or ceramic, and only stock have proven to give consistant results.

 

any other opinions?

 

if most/all race teams were using stock seals, atkins would be out of bussines

 

I will let you know in a week...

Arent like almost kevin landers motors using atkins seals?

I have a motor, 10k on it, with atkins seals that are dead I think.

 

Myself, BDC, and several other consistent builders have used atkins seals for years with no adverse issues. I have seen a set here and there broken by detonation, but this is the case with any seal. IMO they are not quite as strong as mazda oem's, but at half the price, they perform excellent for most street and modified engines even up to 450rwhp. They are especially good for used housings, which some of the harder seals take longer to break in to.

 

Atkins has a new cryo treated seal that some pro drag racers are running. I've heard nothing but good things about them. I have not used them myself but I'm sure Atkins can give you some more info. They are the cryo treated ones and not the regular ones.

Anthony

 

you can get oem mazda for $312 at mazdatrix, so atkins are not half price.
I think oem seals will last apox 100k of normal driving, will atkins last at least half that?

 

I've been using the Atkins master rebuild kits in all my motors so far.....and they seem to be all doing well!

 

will then last 50k or even 35k?

 

will they last 50k or even 35k? its all i need between rebuilds

 

Yes of course!

Just take proper care of the car, like checking all the fluids ect

 

will they eat housings like ra seals?

 

absolutely not. Ive torn down several engines with atkins seals, and the housings look fine. IF anything they wear the housings less than oem...they are probably softer than oem seals.

 

Thanx

 

I have 200k on factory seals with harder than normal driving, lots of time with nonfunctional oil metering pump, etc. Still has awesome compression (90psi on my gauge, highest I have ever recorded on any rotary). This engine will die of terminal boredom or a bad overheat (about seven overheats so far that I am aware of) before it wears out, I think.

An engine that lasts only 100k has something faulty, in this day and age.

 

HOW MUCH harder? daily redline?

 

Daily redline, what does that mean? Some pansy pussyfooting the car to redline once a day is pretty wimpy. The people who spout abotu "daily redline" think RPM is good for the engine, it's not. LOAD is. So put your right foot down until carpet is crushed and HOLD IT THERE. High RPM without high load just makes the engine carbon up even faster since the stock computer or carb settings go stupid-rich over about 4000rpm under all conditions.

With the gearing I have, I have a 4000-5000rpm cruise, and when I race I have a 7k launch, 7500rpm shiftpoint with an 8200rpm rev limit. In city traffic I usually don't go over 2k, 2500 tops, though. (I don't drive city much... it's a waste of fuel!) But on the highway, especially on my drive to work, I'm probably WOT a good 30% of the time.

 

how is that pp motor running peejay

 

Wanted to chime in here -- I like the Atkins seals. I use them primarily. They're quite good. They break-in easily and can more than easily enough handle any power you throw at them.

B

 

I always use Mazda parts when assembling motors but sometimes customers supply parts and here's a motor just taken apart which vacuum dropped from ~14 to ~11 with a bit over 10k miles.
Only Atkins solid corner seals were used and nothing was found broken inside. Side seals highly worned out on the ends and out of spec. Sides plates(irons) were all out of spec as well.
And there was NO OIL STARVATION! ....Bearings were all like new.

Also have another motor (all Atkins) to break open w/ very low miles....this one it's a seal for sure....see how it looks inside.

JD

 

I could understand if guys want to use various apex seals etc but why would anyone want to change to anything but Mazda in terms of corner and side seals.

Just curious, did the customer explain why he wanted to use an Atkins corner seal vs a stock mazda corner seal?

Anthony

 

Atkins corner seal is solid, no rubber insert......that was the only reason.

I agree with you as far as corner & side seals.....
I've seen total destruction on side plates from aftermarket parts. I remember someone here trying Hurley corners/ springs and what a mess !!!

jd

 

Boostn7 Did you have thoes castirons relapped before the last rebuild?????


Dan