Bridge port is over rated?
#176
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
But I digress...
For the people who have actually done/driven bridgeported cars, are the idle and off boost light throttle issues tuning related or porting related? If they are porting related, is there a particular style of bridgeport that is more streetable than another? For example a longer eybrow cut or the eybrow located further up or further down.
For the people who have actually done/driven bridgeported cars, are the idle and off boost light throttle issues tuning related or porting related? If they are porting related, is there a particular style of bridgeport that is more streetable than another? For example a longer eybrow cut or the eybrow located further up or further down.
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
I enjoy auto-x and I am also looking into possibly attending some NASA events this year.-Maniac
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this conditional information would've been good to know to begin with to focus the scope of this thread.
the answer is still, it depends. if you have a severe restriction somewhere else in your system then a bp won't help much. if you have a setup that could benefit from increased intake flow then maybe a bp is the way to go. maybe you should post the rest of your setup.
personally, i wouldn't even bother porting the thing if it's mainly for auto-x.
the answer is still, it depends. if you have a severe restriction somewhere else in your system then a bp won't help much. if you have a setup that could benefit from increased intake flow then maybe a bp is the way to go. maybe you should post the rest of your setup.
personally, i wouldn't even bother porting the thing if it's mainly for auto-x.
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Originally Posted by crispeed
Depending on the rest of your setup you're probably better off using the stock turbos and sticking with a SP. Auto X is mainly low rpm off throttle to full throttle short blast situatons which normally suits the stock setup but that also depends on the particular application.
I am also going to start looking into the different styles of bridgeporting. I know there has to be a way to do it to increase the streetability of the port itself while still maintaining it's positive flow characterisitcs.
For those of you out there that street your BP motors. How do you like driving them while toodling around town? Is there anyone out there that has good low end response or good off boost driving capability?
Thanks.
-Maniac
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Originally Posted by fdracer
this conditional information would've been good to know to begin with to focus the scope of this thread..
Originally Posted by fdracer
the answer is still, it depends. if you have a severe restriction somewhere else in your system then a bp won't help much. if you have a setup that could benefit from increased intake flow then maybe a bp is the way to go. maybe you should post the rest of your setup.
Originally Posted by fdracer
personally, i wouldn't even bother porting the thing if it's mainly for auto-x.
Crispeed, i also said possible Nasa events so there is a good possibility of sustained high revs. I'm not trying to build a motor on paper right now anyways. Alot of what I have heard so far has sold me on the potential of the bridgeport but I am still more than open to soak up any more information that will come my way.
Last edited by Boostmaniac; 03-14-07 at 08:24 PM.
#180
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Hey, you asked about low rpm hesitation and low rpm power and such.
I have a half bridge port and I daily drive my car. As far as the low rpm bucking or hesitation goes I never really get that as bad as I have read on here. Its only under like 3k rpms and on VERY light throttle application. When I say light throttle I mean on flat ground just barely using the gas at all.
I got a gain in low rpm power and drive around town with the HBP. I did have a local not well known large SP in the previous motor so I cant really compare to stock ports at all.
I also did not get that great of gas mileage before hand so I did not experience a big loss in mpg.
If theres anything else I can do please ask.
I have a half bridge port and I daily drive my car. As far as the low rpm bucking or hesitation goes I never really get that as bad as I have read on here. Its only under like 3k rpms and on VERY light throttle application. When I say light throttle I mean on flat ground just barely using the gas at all.
I got a gain in low rpm power and drive around town with the HBP. I did have a local not well known large SP in the previous motor so I cant really compare to stock ports at all.
I also did not get that great of gas mileage before hand so I did not experience a big loss in mpg.
If theres anything else I can do please ask.
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Originally Posted by Crusader_9x
Hey, you asked about low rpm hesitation and low rpm power and such.
I have a half bridge port and I daily drive my car. As far as the low rpm bucking or hesitation goes I never really get that as bad as I have read on here. Its only under like 3k rpms and on VERY light throttle application. When I say light throttle I mean on flat ground just barely using the gas at all.
I got a gain in low rpm power and drive around town with the HBP. I did have a local not well known large SP in the previous motor so I cant really compare to stock ports at all.
I also did not get that great of gas mileage before hand so I did not experience a big loss in mpg.
If theres anything else I can do please ask.
I have a half bridge port and I daily drive my car. As far as the low rpm bucking or hesitation goes I never really get that as bad as I have read on here. Its only under like 3k rpms and on VERY light throttle application. When I say light throttle I mean on flat ground just barely using the gas at all.
I got a gain in low rpm power and drive around town with the HBP. I did have a local not well known large SP in the previous motor so I cant really compare to stock ports at all.
I also did not get that great of gas mileage before hand so I did not experience a big loss in mpg.
If theres anything else I can do please ask.
Stock ports suck, trust me. My friend has some pretty extreme Streetports and it drives much better than my car. What are your feeling between your 2 motors. Do you like the HBP or the SP better? And at what rpm are you idling?
Also, how is partial throttle to full throttle performance?
Thanks.
-Maniac
#182
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My car idles at 1400 rpms. I definetly like the HBP better but at the same time I did not have a real good street port motor so its kinda hard to compare the two.
Theres a long story on the SP motor but basically its a local guy that screwed over a bunch of people then disappeared. When I got my motor rebuilt and went HBP i was informed that the old ports were all jagged/sloppy and to big to reuse.
On the throttle thing, as soon as you give it enough gas to even remotely start gaining speed its fine. From my experience as long as theres some load on the motor its fine. Its seems to be that in between area of very light to no load is where it bucks or chugs, if that makes any sense?
Also i have all solid mounts, motor, tranny, and so on so that could also be part of the chuging or bucking it does.
Theres a long story on the SP motor but basically its a local guy that screwed over a bunch of people then disappeared. When I got my motor rebuilt and went HBP i was informed that the old ports were all jagged/sloppy and to big to reuse.
On the throttle thing, as soon as you give it enough gas to even remotely start gaining speed its fine. From my experience as long as theres some load on the motor its fine. Its seems to be that in between area of very light to no load is where it bucks or chugs, if that makes any sense?
Also i have all solid mounts, motor, tranny, and so on so that could also be part of the chuging or bucking it does.
#183
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Here i uploaded the only video i got with some of the chuging or bucking that it does when your just tooling around town.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...19846606838685
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...19846606838685
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Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
Wow, I had no idea this thread would ever start this long of a conversation. I apologize for not getting back to you all sooner but I was layed up in bed with the flu that was then followed by bronchitis.
To answer some of the questions, this was based on a streetable car that will see track time. To even remotely bring in professional drag cars and the porting they use is rediculous and even remotely using a comparison between their motor and a motor that would go into a car I own is rediculous as well. The amount of money they have put into their cars is most likely more than I make in year, and with that much cash and development time, they could probably make similar power figures using stock ports. They use whatever port they want and build an engine around it with one goal in mind.
But I digress...
To everyone that included first hand experience, dyno results, and hard facts like Crispeed, BDC, and ReTed, and anyone else that I can't remember right now (you know who you are) I thank you for being generous enough to provide information for a great read on porting.
To everyone else who was making insubstantiated claims based on speculation, guesses, 2nd hand info, magic, moondust, and voodoo, please refrain from posting here.
For the people who have actually done/driven bridgeported cars, are the idle and off boost light throttle issues tuning related or porting related? If they are porting related, is there a particular style of bridgeport that is more streetable than another? For example a longer eybrow cut or the eybrow located further up or further down.
To answer some of the questions, this was based on a streetable car that will see track time. To even remotely bring in professional drag cars and the porting they use is rediculous and even remotely using a comparison between their motor and a motor that would go into a car I own is rediculous as well. The amount of money they have put into their cars is most likely more than I make in year, and with that much cash and development time, they could probably make similar power figures using stock ports. They use whatever port they want and build an engine around it with one goal in mind.
But I digress...
To everyone that included first hand experience, dyno results, and hard facts like Crispeed, BDC, and ReTed, and anyone else that I can't remember right now (you know who you are) I thank you for being generous enough to provide information for a great read on porting.
To everyone else who was making insubstantiated claims based on speculation, guesses, 2nd hand info, magic, moondust, and voodoo, please refrain from posting here.
For the people who have actually done/driven bridgeported cars, are the idle and off boost light throttle issues tuning related or porting related? If they are porting related, is there a particular style of bridgeport that is more streetable than another? For example a longer eybrow cut or the eybrow located further up or further down.
At low load/idle overlap causes the exhaust to mix with intake resulting with a hunting engine..........bra-bra-bra-bra.
Running a half-bridge (sec's) vs full bridge will help a bit.
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
From what I have read, I am more compelled to go bridgeport than before. Having better transient boost response is what I was looking for and would be perfect for a track application. I don't have smog where I am so I'm not worried about emissions and my current gas mileage is 11 mpg so I doubt it could get worse than that. The only thing that I wouldn't like is light throttle hesitation and a great loss of power down low but I strongly suspect good tuning would remedy this.
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
So in short, the guys that provided facts, thanks. The guys that are defending streetports simply because they have them and have provided 0 relative information on the various methods of bridgeporting and how they are beneficial, please troll another thread.
FYI: I was running a daily driven TII with half-BPs back in ~98-99 thanks to Crispeed:-)
Street porting has proven itself and needs no defending.
fdracer said it best "from daily drivable twins and singles to big hp street/strip cars to all out drag cars, a sp has been a proven to support anything you can throw at it."
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
Also please expand the scope of thought to include track racing and not just drag racing. I enjoy drag racing and completely respect those of you that do it to the extreme, but the turns are where it is for me. I enjoy auto-x and I am also looking into possibly attending some NASA events this year.
Thanks again guys for so much information and now that I'm not so sick anymore, I'll be a little more involved in this thread.
-Maniac
Thanks again guys for so much information and now that I'm not so sick anymore, I'll be a little more involved in this thread.
-Maniac
#186
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Originally Posted by xboxthug13b
its a big bridge cut?
http://www.propichosting.com/Album.aspx?folder=501408
#187
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Originally Posted by Boostn7
It is porting related due to the overlap and tuning wil not make it go away.
At low load/idle overlap causes the exhaust to mix with intake resulting with a hunting engine..........bra-bra-bra-bra.
Running a half-bridge (sec's) vs full bridge will help a bit.
At low load/idle overlap causes the exhaust to mix with intake resulting with a hunting engine..........bra-bra-bra-bra.
Running a half-bridge (sec's) vs full bridge will help a bit.
Originally Posted by Boostn7
If current gas mileage is 11 mpg, it will definetely be worst w/ bridge ports.
Originally Posted by Boostn7
Again....anyone in particular you're refering to ???
FYI: I was running a daily driven TII with half-BPs back in ~98-99 thanks to Crispeed:-)
FYI: I was running a daily driven TII with half-BPs back in ~98-99 thanks to Crispeed:-)
Originally Posted by Boostn7
Street porting has proven itself and needs no defending.
fdracer said it best "from daily drivable twins and singles to big hp street/strip cars to all out drag cars, a sp has been a proven to support anything you can throw at it."
fdracer said it best "from daily drivable twins and singles to big hp street/strip cars to all out drag cars, a sp has been a proven to support anything you can throw at it."
So, basically, I want to hear about your bridgeport car. What exactly didn't you like about it. This is the info I want to hear. I would like to see pics of the ports if you have them. I want to try to start taking the "mystique" and guesswork out of bridgeporting for the less technically apt. So if you can tell me anything about your setup, that would be a great start.
-Maniac
#188
more info on my half bridge, mine idles at 1300rpm after much trial and error with the air bypass screw and throttle linkage idle screw, no much bucking to speak of, cruising around town I get 15-18mpg, last week I mananged 25mpg!!!!! on the Motorway of course at a Steady 60mph. But Nailing it boy oh boy does that fuel needle head south haha probably 8-9mpg.
I found I can really modulate the grip and power through the throttle pedal very very very responsive very similar to a highpower NA sort of control, ideal for the twisties
Having owned both SP and now half BP, I will never go back to SP as I just luv the responsiveness of the Half BP on the twisties and on a circuit track
I found I can really modulate the grip and power through the throttle pedal very very very responsive very similar to a highpower NA sort of control, ideal for the twisties
Having owned both SP and now half BP, I will never go back to SP as I just luv the responsiveness of the Half BP on the twisties and on a circuit track
#189
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by Crusader_9x
I got a gain in low rpm power and drive around town with the HBP. I did have a local not well known large SP in the previous motor so I cant really compare to stock ports at all.
-Ted
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Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
It's funny you thought I was talking about you. I was referring to all of those that provided no information whatsoever other than someone I know hates bridgeports. I can see how you kinda fit into this category but I wasn't trying to single you out specifically. If I was, I would say something extremely concise like I don't think your dick measuring contest with BDC is either impressive or needed. He posted up some information on porting and he thinks he doesn't have enough turbo. Regardless of what he thinks you seem to want to contradict him at every corner while he still provides more information. That's all well and good and extremely childish, but that's not the reason I started the thread and it's not what I want clogging it up. I understand you think the streetport is the end all of ports regardless of what you see and I am fine with that. I want something different and the bridgeport provides what I am looking for. So instead of instigating in general douchebaggery and trying to make everyone that runs bridgeports feel stupid for doing so, contribute useful information. You don't like a bridgeport? Why? Do you have pictures of the ports used? What was the intake timing of each bridge? Could less overlap have provided you with a better ride? This is what I was looking for, not Captain Jackass ran a 1.5 second quartermile at the speed of light while using a streetport. I could honestly give 2 ***** less.
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
So, basically, I want to hear about your bridgeport car. What exactly didn't you like about it. This is the info I want to hear. I would like to see pics of the ports if you have them. I want to try to start taking the "mystique" and guesswork out of bridgeporting for the less technically apt. So if you can tell me anything about your setup, that would be a great start.
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
Increased flow is always a good thing. An engine is a glorified air pump, the more efficient it is the more power it can make to an extent. That was like asking if I would be interested in making more power. As far as I am concerned, everyone's setup could always benefit from a little more intake flow (without the sacrifice of charge velocity).
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I think you have already made up your mind on what porting you want. All you are really looking for is comfort from reading what everyone else think to reassure your decision. Seroiusly, we have at least 4-5 engine builders in this thread telling you not to go with the 1/2 bridge since the negative effect outweights the gain in hp. Those who tells you is fine were properly had the small 1/2 bridge engine that only provided you with the sound effect more than performance. Here are some facts for you based on personal experience
Pro:
more hp overall (maybe by 5-8%, if porting is done correctly)
aggressive idling making it sound more race ready
faster spool up (if porting was done correctly)
Con:
harder to start when cold
higher idle
higher coolant temp
poor light throttle (If I was crusing at 70mph, the speedo will bounce between 70-74 because of the porting and jerkiness from the overlap)
engine life
harder to tune
more fuel consumption
Louder (if you live in a suburb, your neighbors will hate you)
reversion
There you have it......
Pro:
more hp overall (maybe by 5-8%, if porting is done correctly)
aggressive idling making it sound more race ready
faster spool up (if porting was done correctly)
Con:
harder to start when cold
higher idle
higher coolant temp
poor light throttle (If I was crusing at 70mph, the speedo will bounce between 70-74 because of the porting and jerkiness from the overlap)
engine life
harder to tune
more fuel consumption
Louder (if you live in a suburb, your neighbors will hate you)
reversion
There you have it......
#193
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Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
I have thought about a half bridge, but I still think tuning can fix the majority of it. The only way to find out for sure would be to extensively test and tune.
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
Why? What information are you basing this off of?
bridge port. Its one of the negatives of a high overlap port.
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
It's funny you thought I was talking about you. I was referring to all of those that provided no information whatsoever other than someone I know hates bridgeports. I can see how you kinda fit into this category but I wasn't trying to single you out specifically. If I was, I would say something extremely concise like I don't think your dick measuring contest with BDC is either impressive or needed. He posted up some information on porting and he thinks he doesn't have enough turbo. Regardless of what he thinks you seem to want to contradict him at every corner while he still provides more information. That's all well and good and extremely childish, but that's not the reason I started the thread and it's not what I want clogging it up. I understand you think the streetport is the end all of ports regardless of what you see and I am fine with that. I want something different and the bridgeport provides what I am looking for. So instead of instigating in general douchebaggery and trying to make everyone that runs bridgeports feel stupid for doing so, contribute useful information. You don't like a bridgeport? Why? Do you have pictures of the ports used? What was the intake timing of each bridge? Could less overlap have provided you with a better ride? This is what I was looking for, not Captain Jackass ran a 1.5 second quartermile at the speed of light while using a streetport. I could honestly give 2 ***** less.
You started a thread asking for eveyones opinions and after 170+ posts you crawl from under a rock and resort to insults for no apparent reason.
Did anyone on here said anything negative to you ?
You need to go back and re-read the whole thread, since you're missing a quite few facts and completely making a jackass out of yourself.
BDC posted two dyno runs:
SP making 424.4rwh @ 15psi
vs
his most recent BP making 439rwh @24psi or 378rwh @14psi.
Now, anyone with any common sense could see which port is performing better based on his own data.
So I'm extremely childish by pointing that out !!!
He was NOT turbo limited since both Crispeed and Pluto made very close to 500rwh with same 60-1 wheel.
If you don't give 2 ***** then go back and crawl back under that rock you came out of.
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
I'm not making a dig on streetports. In fact I intend to build a motor with a streetport for purely daily driver purposes. But my "strip" doesn't go straight for a quarter of a mile, it has turns. Sure I'll run at the drag, but my mission is to build kind of like a jack of all trades. Most importantly, "I" want to like it. I could care less if you think I am using inferior ports or you think I could go faster with a street port. If "I" have fun in my car and "YOU" have fun in your car, we are all winners.
So, basically, I want to hear about your bridgeport car. What exactly didn't you like about it. This is the info I want to hear. I would like to see pics of the ports if you have them. I want to try to start taking the "mystique" and guesswork out of bridgeporting for the less technically apt. So if you can tell me anything about your setup, that would be a great start.
-Maniac
So, basically, I want to hear about your bridgeport car. What exactly didn't you like about it. This is the info I want to hear. I would like to see pics of the ports if you have them. I want to try to start taking the "mystique" and guesswork out of bridgeporting for the less technically apt. So if you can tell me anything about your setup, that would be a great start.
-Maniac
I'm done here.
Last edited by Boostn7; 03-15-07 at 10:46 AM.
#194
BDC Motorsports
Originally Posted by pluto
I think you have already made up your mind on what porting you want. All you are really looking for is comfort from reading what everyone else think to reassure your decision. Seroiusly, we have at least 4-5 engine builders in this thread telling you not to go with the 1/2 bridge since the negative effect outweights the gain in hp. Those who tells you is fine were properly had the small 1/2 bridge engine that only provided you with the sound effect more than performance. Here are some facts for you based on personal experience
Pro:
more hp overall (maybe by 5-8%, if porting is done correctly)
aggressive idling making it sound more race ready
faster spool up (if porting was done correctly)
There you have it......
Pro:
more hp overall (maybe by 5-8%, if porting is done correctly)
aggressive idling making it sound more race ready
faster spool up (if porting was done correctly)
There you have it......
Originally Posted by pluto
Pro:
more hp overall (maybe by 5-8%, if porting is done correctly)
aggressive idling making it sound more race ready
faster spool up (if porting was done correctly)
more hp overall (maybe by 5-8%, if porting is done correctly)
aggressive idling making it sound more race ready
faster spool up (if porting was done correctly)
The idling... I think that's the first thing that people notice. Even though it's admittedly a bit more troublesome to get set right when tuning with a standalone for TPS calibration, zero throttle fuelling at 0% throttle, and hard-idling the throttle body, I think it's a plus and as Steve says it does give that racey kind of sound; it gives that kind of throaty, V8 hot-rod sound version for a rotary.
Originally Posted by pluto
Con:
harder to start when cold
higher idle
higher coolant temp
poor light throttle (If I was crusing at 70mph, the speedo will bounce between 70-74 because of the porting and jerkiness from the overlap)
engine life
harder to tune
more fuel consumption
Louder (if you live in a suburb, your neighbors will hate you)
reversion
harder to start when cold
higher idle
higher coolant temp
poor light throttle (If I was crusing at 70mph, the speedo will bounce between 70-74 because of the porting and jerkiness from the overlap)
engine life
harder to tune
more fuel consumption
Louder (if you live in a suburb, your neighbors will hate you)
reversion
Higher idle -- This isn't a con whatsoever, even though it might be more difficult to get it set. Once set, it's a non-issue. It can also be a plus for those of us who endeavour to use an underdrive crank pulley -- a higher idle won't contribute to the negative effect of spinning the alternator too slowly at lower idles, producing a hardly-effective alternator.
Higher coolant temp -- I'm not sure where this comes from, but I've never seen any evidence for this on my car or on any others I've done. Theoretically, I can see the merit behind this, but I've never experienced it before.
Harder to tune -- With a few things, I think this is correct -- it's more difficult to get the idle set and trimmed well, it's more difficult to get cold-starting and cold-operation right, and it can be more difficult to get the primer right. But otherwise, with the time I've spent refining the HBP for street use not withstanding, I don't think it's any more difficult.
More fuel consumption -- Admittedly, at lower RPM's (I'd say under 3krpm), there is an increase in consumption, but alot of it can honestly be tuned out. Speaking of fuel consumption, did I ever tell you what kind of tank mileage I got on a tank once driving from here to New Orleans, 80mph in 5th gear? Series 4 Turbo tank -- 300 miles. I normally also get about 220-240mi out of a tank when driving around town.
Louder -- True. Much louder. 50%+ louder. I use a silencer for long drives.
Engine life -- I've saved this for last, as this is one of those questions I get asked when someone asks me about bridgeporting. I think some of the stigma that comes along with this goes to two things -- the overall thickness of the remaining bridge once the cut has been made as well as this notion of burning water.
First, the burning water thing comes from when a J-Bridge is cut and not a traditional bridge. A J-Bridge will extend into the inner o-ring land and then create a problem with sealing the water jacket from the chamber that has to be rigged a certain way with respect to cutting the o-ring and "re-sealing" it. Depending on how the "fix" to the problem is done is what determines that part of its reliability.
Second, the thickness of the bridge:
Depending on the thickness of the bridge, it has the potential to crack I would think theoretically from the on-off heat cycling of the metal. It's a thinner mass, so it strikes me that it'd have a higher risk of cracking. But, in my experience, I've never one time ever seen this happen, even with a bridgeport I did nearly 3 years ago on a still, daily-driven car that had a thickness of 2mm x 2mm x 2" length. The bridges that I cut are considerably thicker than this:
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/EnginePo...geViewsIndex=1
They're left at about 0.230 to 0.250" in width, depending on the width of the eyebrow I cut. As you can see, plenty of metal left, and after teardowns of motors with that kind of bridge, not a single shred of evidence to suggest a reduction in engine life due to a potential crack or some other structural failure.
That's my $0.02 cents on all this for what it's worth. My final thoughts -- I am saying that with a well-researched, proper tune, with bridgeport cuts that are conservative in size, this combo can be easily made streetable with little downside while still yielding the pluses of high overlap on a turbo setup.
B
#195
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Originally Posted by pluto
I think you have already made up your mind on what porting you want. All you are really looking for is comfort from reading what everyone else think to reassure your decision. Seroiusly, we have at least 4-5 engine builders in this thread telling you not to go with the 1/2 bridge since the negative effect outweights the gain in hp. Those who tells you is fine were properly had the small 1/2 bridge engine that only provided you with the sound effect more than performance. Here are some facts for you based on personal experience
Pro:
more hp overall (maybe by 5-8%, if porting is done correctly)
aggressive idling making it sound more race ready
faster spool up (if porting was done correctly)
Con:
harder to start when cold
higher idle
higher coolant temp
poor light throttle (If I was crusing at 70mph, the speedo will bounce between 70-74 because of the porting and jerkiness from the overlap)
engine life
harder to tune
more fuel consumption
Louder (if you live in a suburb, your neighbors will hate you)
reversion
There you have it......
Pro:
more hp overall (maybe by 5-8%, if porting is done correctly)
aggressive idling making it sound more race ready
faster spool up (if porting was done correctly)
Con:
harder to start when cold
higher idle
higher coolant temp
poor light throttle (If I was crusing at 70mph, the speedo will bounce between 70-74 because of the porting and jerkiness from the overlap)
engine life
harder to tune
more fuel consumption
Louder (if you live in a suburb, your neighbors will hate you)
reversion
There you have it......
Ok, something that hasn't been covered in this thread. Engine life. This is extremely important to us so what is the average life expectancy of a bridge ported motor? What normally goes first? Does the bridge crack or do the seals die?
#196
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Originally Posted by fdracer
wtf, i don't really get the hostile attitude, no one's even said anything negative to you, we've all just shared our personal opinions. even crispeed suggested going w/ a sp, are you gonna call him a jackass too?
And no, Crispeed has dropped a massive amount of information in regards to porting and I have already thanked him in a previous post of mine. He suggested to go SP, I want to know why. I'll play Devil's Advocate to get the entire story on porting.
Originally Posted by fdracer
yeah good luck getting that info.
Originally Posted by fdracer
are you dense? go ahead and try running a bridge through stock turbos, exhaust, and intake system and see how great it runs.
#197
Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
pect me to make fun of you.
And no, Crispeed has dropped a massive amount of information in regards to porting and I have already thanked him in a previous post of mine. He suggested to go SP, I want to know why.
And no, Crispeed has dropped a massive amount of information in regards to porting and I have already thanked him in a previous post of mine. He suggested to go SP, I want to know why.
The way I see it go ahaead and try the BP. The only way to find out if it works for you. I personally have note done a BP with stock turbos so I cannot comment on it's performance. I hope you've allready tried a SP so in that way you can actually base your findings on the differences of both porting types. I hope it works for you.
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Originally Posted by Boostn7
OK, good luck.
Originally Posted by Boostn7
Because I experienced it and so did most when they went from a street port to a
bridge port. Its one of the negatives of a high overlap port.
bridge port. Its one of the negatives of a high overlap port.
Originally Posted by Boostn7
Its' even funnier how your an arrogant POS that obviously does not need any help !!!
You started a thread asking for eveyones opinions and after 170+ posts you crawl from under a rock and resort to insults for no apparent reason.
Did anyone on here said anything negative to you ?
You need to go back and re-read the whole thread, since you're missing a quite few facts and completely making a jackass out of yourself.
You started a thread asking for eveyones opinions and after 170+ posts you crawl from under a rock and resort to insults for no apparent reason.
Did anyone on here said anything negative to you ?
You need to go back and re-read the whole thread, since you're missing a quite few facts and completely making a jackass out of yourself.
Originally Posted by Boostn7
BDC posted two dyno runs:
SP making 424.4rwh @ 15psi
vs
his most recent BP making 439rwh @24psi or 378rwh @14psi.
Now, anyone with any common sense could see which port is performing better based on his own data.
So I'm extremely childish by pointing that out !!!
He was NOT turbo limited since both Crispeed and Pluto made very close to 500rwh with same 60-1 wheel.
If you don't give 2 ***** then go back and crawl back under that rock you came out of.
SP making 424.4rwh @ 15psi
vs
his most recent BP making 439rwh @24psi or 378rwh @14psi.
Now, anyone with any common sense could see which port is performing better based on his own data.
So I'm extremely childish by pointing that out !!!
He was NOT turbo limited since both Crispeed and Pluto made very close to 500rwh with same 60-1 wheel.
If you don't give 2 ***** then go back and crawl back under that rock you came out of.
Originally Posted by Boostn7
I've wasted my time and you're simply an idiot and a real douchebag for ruining your own thread.
I'm done here.
I'm done here.
Thanks for visiting, please don't come back.
-Maniac
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Originally Posted by crispeed
Was basing that on the fact I thought you were planning on using the stock turbos and also not knowing exactly what your operating conditions were.
The way I see it go ahaead and try the BP. The only way to find out if it works for you. I personally have note done a BP with stock turbos so I cannot comment on it's performance. I hope you've allready tried a SP so in that way you can actually base your findings on the differences of both porting types. I hope it works for you.
The way I see it go ahaead and try the BP. The only way to find out if it works for you. I personally have note done a BP with stock turbos so I cannot comment on it's performance. I hope you've allready tried a SP so in that way you can actually base your findings on the differences of both porting types. I hope it works for you.
Bottom line, I am trying to carve the line between a daily driver and a track monster. It will be a fun project.
Sorry about the lack of info but this thread was intended for someone else's viewing pleasure.
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So BDC, in regards to that dyno, why do you honestly think it took so much more boost to make those numbers? Did you ever get to dyno the motor with a different turbo or setup?
I just want to put this argument to rest once and for all.
As for your post earlier, have you had a chance to speak to your past customers that had a bridge or half bridge? Do you have any feedback whatsoever in this department?
Thanks guys and keep the good info coming.
-Maniac
I just want to put this argument to rest once and for all.
As for your post earlier, have you had a chance to speak to your past customers that had a bridge or half bridge? Do you have any feedback whatsoever in this department?
Thanks guys and keep the good info coming.
-Maniac