LS1 fc vs YZR600, Busa... video
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LS1 fc vs YZR600, Busa... video
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...7F3C5F2B44.htm
Overall not too bad... a bit more room to play with the busa and I would've walked out on him. I started too low in rpm in 2/3 of the races, but it still ended up very close. The bike was lightly modded with some farings off, a pipe, and potentially other mods.
Overall not too bad... a bit more room to play with the busa and I would've walked out on him. I started too low in rpm in 2/3 of the races, but it still ended up very close. The bike was lightly modded with some farings off, a pipe, and potentially other mods.
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Originally Posted by snub disphenoid
Dude, your car can move the **** out. What size hit of nitrous were you running, 150 I presume?
Yes, sir. 150 hit. I imagine I should be around 140 traps on that hit.
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most bikes are not that hard to beat from a roll, I've done it plenty of times in my (at the time) 320 hp rotary powered FD
more people need to do some research on the nature of rolling resistance: at higher speeds, esp as you approach tripe digits, horsepower and aerodynamics dominate the equation, and weight is less of a factor
therefore, the oft touted "power to weight" of a bike is offset at higher speeds by generally crap aerodynamics and limited horspower
now, level the playing field a bit: try running one of these turbo Busas pushing about 240 hp with a full fairing and the rider tucked in, THEN I will be impressed *hint: you need about 700-800 hp to do it*
more people need to do some research on the nature of rolling resistance: at higher speeds, esp as you approach tripe digits, horsepower and aerodynamics dominate the equation, and weight is less of a factor
therefore, the oft touted "power to weight" of a bike is offset at higher speeds by generally crap aerodynamics and limited horspower
now, level the playing field a bit: try running one of these turbo Busas pushing about 240 hp with a full fairing and the rider tucked in, THEN I will be impressed *hint: you need about 700-800 hp to do it*
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btw, the Busa has been officially dethroned as the (bone stock) king of speed
http://www.motorsports-network.com/k...06kaw/zx14.htm
http://www.motorsports-network.com/k...06kaw/zx14.htm
Last edited by Improved FD; 04-23-06 at 01:20 AM.
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Originally Posted by Improved FD
lol
what do expect to dyno? are you going LS1?
what do expect to dyno? are you going LS1?
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Originally Posted by Improved FD
most bikes are not that hard to beat from a roll, I've done it plenty of times in my (at the time) 320 hp rotary powered FD
more people need to do some research on the nature of rolling resistance: at higher speeds, esp as you approach tripe digits, horsepower and aerodynamics dominate the equation, and weight is less of a factor
therefore, the oft touted "power to weight" of a bike is offset at higher speeds by generally crap aerodynamics and limited horspower
now, level the playing field a bit: try running one of these turbo Busas pushing about 240 hp with a full fairing and the rider tucked in, THEN I will be impressed *hint: you need about 700-800 hp to do it*
more people need to do some research on the nature of rolling resistance: at higher speeds, esp as you approach tripe digits, horsepower and aerodynamics dominate the equation, and weight is less of a factor
therefore, the oft touted "power to weight" of a bike is offset at higher speeds by generally crap aerodynamics and limited horspower
now, level the playing field a bit: try running one of these turbo Busas pushing about 240 hp with a full fairing and the rider tucked in, THEN I will be impressed *hint: you need about 700-800 hp to do it*
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I will always love the Green Kawasaki Ninja. I spit on this new bike. As far as racing a motorcycle, I'd be scared shitless, because the last thing I want is a gust of wind hitting him, making him swerve either in front of my car, or in the back of Semi. That bike is fast, though. Nice vid.
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Originally Posted by Busa413
You're not going to beat a properly ridden litre bike or bigger with 320hp in a car
FD aerodynamics are pretty good, and I may have been pushing closer to 340 hp, the car was not dyno'd
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Originally Posted by Busa413
You're not going to beat a properly ridden litre bike or bigger with 320hp in a car and it's going to take a hell of a lot more than 700 to 800RWHP to take out a 240+RWHP Turbo Busa. It took an Supercharged Viper 886RWHP to just edge out a stock Hayabusa with a good rider and on average takes about 800RWHP+ to beat a Busa as long as the rider knows what he's doing. If he sits up at all he is going to hurt his chances bad because just like you said aerodynamics on a bike suck compaired to a car.
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Originally Posted by Busa413
It took an Supercharged Viper 886RWHP to just edge out a stock Hayabusa with a good rider.
why does it take a "good rider" to do a high speed run? it doesn't....tuck into the bubble, clutchless shift, and pin the throttle! pretty mindless
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Originally Posted by Improved FD
from a high speed roll against my buddies 2002 R1, we were dead even up to about 120 when we both let off
FD aerodynamics are pretty good, and I may have been pushing closer to 340 hp, the car was not dyno'd
FD aerodynamics are pretty good, and I may have been pushing closer to 340 hp, the car was not dyno'd
The 02 R1 is only a high 120, low 130 trap bike compared to the busa being a low 140 trap bike, huge difference. And even still, you're not even a 120 trap car at 320whp, so your friend either sucks at riding or you ran from 115 to 120mph.
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Originally Posted by Improved FD
did I say we were running a drag race from a standing stop? what the heck does 1/4 mile trap speed have to do with this?
1/4 mile trap speed directly shows power and acceleration ability and therefore has everything to do with the situation. Unless, of course, you were running from 115 to 120.
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Originally Posted by Improved FD
I'm throwing the bs flag on that one, it doesn't jive with other vids I have seen
why does it take a "good rider" to do a high speed run? it doesn't....tuck into the bubble, clutchless shift, and pin the throttle! pretty mindless
why does it take a "good rider" to do a high speed run? it doesn't....tuck into the bubble, clutchless shift, and pin the throttle! pretty mindless
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Originally Posted by Hocky
1/4 mile trap speed directly shows power and acceleration ability and therefore has everything to do with the situation. Unless, of course, you were running from 115 to 120.
a 1/4 mile race from a standing stop is completely different, all that really matters, in terms of a high speed roll equivalent, is the last 1/8 mile, and it would only get worse for the bike from there (typical liter bike, not a turbo Busa or whatever)
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=82
https://www.rx7club.com/kills-archive-229/fd-vs-gsx-r-1000-a-462229/page3/
Last edited by Improved FD; 04-23-06 at 02:45 PM.
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Road load horsepower, rolling resistance, and aerodynamic drag:
Road load horsepower is the power required for a vehicle to maintain a constant speed on a level road. It is the sum of the powers required to overcome the car's rolling resistance, and aerodynamic drag.
Rolling Resistance
Rolling resistance includes power train losses, wheel bearing losses, and power losses in the tires. Of the three, tire rolling resistance is the greatest, and so dominant that the other losses may be disregarded for first-order approximations.
The force of tire rolling resistance in radial-ply tires for passenger cars tend to be about 1.2% of the car's weight at 30 mph (48 km/h), increasing to about 1.6% at 70 mph (113 km/h), when properly inflated. For a 3000 pound car these equate to roughly 35 and 50 pounds of force at 30 and 70 mph, respectively. Under inflation or excessive weight increase tire rolling resistance considerably.
Aerodynamic Drag
The force of aerodynamic drag is a function of a car's shape (Coefficient of Drag), size (frontal area), the square of it's speed, and (to a minor extent) its altitude. For a mid-size sedan this equates to about 20 and 90 pounds of force at 30 and 70 mph, respectively.
Modern cars have drag coefficients (Cd) ranging from 0.30 to 0.50 (with pickups and SUV's being somewhat higher). To give some idea of what these number mean, here are typical Cd's for some other objects: an airfoil, 0.05; a ball, 0.10; a narrow (30°) cone, 0.34; a wide (60°) cone, 0.51; a square flat plate, 1.17; a parachute, 1.35.
Road Load Horsepower
Horsepower is a measurement of a force applied at a speed. Both rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag are calculated in terms of force. At any chosen speed, these forces can be resolved into horsepower requirements. If the car can supply that amount of power to the wheels, then it can maintain that speed. Total road load horsepower for a typical mid-size sedan is about 15 hp (11 kW) at 50 mph (80km/h).
Since rolling resistance force is not a function of speed, then rolling resistance horsepower (a function of speed) increases proportionally with speed. Since aerodynamic drag force is proportional to the square of the car's speed, then aerodynamic drag horsepower increases proportionally to the cube of the car's road speed.
It is generally accepted that, on a typical car, its rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag become equal at about 50 mph. So at twice that speed the aerodynamic drag is about 4 times the rolling resistance.
Road load horsepower is the power required for a vehicle to maintain a constant speed on a level road. It is the sum of the powers required to overcome the car's rolling resistance, and aerodynamic drag.
Rolling Resistance
Rolling resistance includes power train losses, wheel bearing losses, and power losses in the tires. Of the three, tire rolling resistance is the greatest, and so dominant that the other losses may be disregarded for first-order approximations.
The force of tire rolling resistance in radial-ply tires for passenger cars tend to be about 1.2% of the car's weight at 30 mph (48 km/h), increasing to about 1.6% at 70 mph (113 km/h), when properly inflated. For a 3000 pound car these equate to roughly 35 and 50 pounds of force at 30 and 70 mph, respectively. Under inflation or excessive weight increase tire rolling resistance considerably.
Aerodynamic Drag
The force of aerodynamic drag is a function of a car's shape (Coefficient of Drag), size (frontal area), the square of it's speed, and (to a minor extent) its altitude. For a mid-size sedan this equates to about 20 and 90 pounds of force at 30 and 70 mph, respectively.
Modern cars have drag coefficients (Cd) ranging from 0.30 to 0.50 (with pickups and SUV's being somewhat higher). To give some idea of what these number mean, here are typical Cd's for some other objects: an airfoil, 0.05; a ball, 0.10; a narrow (30°) cone, 0.34; a wide (60°) cone, 0.51; a square flat plate, 1.17; a parachute, 1.35.
Road Load Horsepower
Horsepower is a measurement of a force applied at a speed. Both rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag are calculated in terms of force. At any chosen speed, these forces can be resolved into horsepower requirements. If the car can supply that amount of power to the wheels, then it can maintain that speed. Total road load horsepower for a typical mid-size sedan is about 15 hp (11 kW) at 50 mph (80km/h).
Since rolling resistance force is not a function of speed, then rolling resistance horsepower (a function of speed) increases proportionally with speed. Since aerodynamic drag force is proportional to the square of the car's speed, then aerodynamic drag horsepower increases proportionally to the cube of the car's road speed.
It is generally accepted that, on a typical car, its rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag become equal at about 50 mph. So at twice that speed the aerodynamic drag is about 4 times the rolling resistance.
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No argument, but only racing to 120 (which is not high speed) is not hurting the bike that bad.... especially being that it will trap better than that in the 1/4.
#24
Originally Posted by Improved FD
most bikes are not that hard to beat from a roll, I've done it plenty of times in my (at the time) 320 hp rotary powered FD
more people need to do some research on the nature of rolling resistance: at higher speeds, esp as you approach tripe digits, horsepower and aerodynamics dominate the equation, and weight is less of a factor
therefore, the oft touted "power to weight" of a bike is offset at higher speeds by generally crap aerodynamics and limited horspower
now, level the playing field a bit: try running one of these turbo Busas pushing about 240 hp with a full fairing and the rider tucked in, THEN I will be impressed *hint: you need about 700-800 hp to do it*
more people need to do some research on the nature of rolling resistance: at higher speeds, esp as you approach tripe digits, horsepower and aerodynamics dominate the equation, and weight is less of a factor
therefore, the oft touted "power to weight" of a bike is offset at higher speeds by generally crap aerodynamics and limited horspower
now, level the playing field a bit: try running one of these turbo Busas pushing about 240 hp with a full fairing and the rider tucked in, THEN I will be impressed *hint: you need about 700-800 hp to do it*
Any newer bikes are tough to beat, even from a roll. If you are beating an R1 with 320 whp, something is wrong. Even though I know FD's have great aero... One of my friends ran a 636 in his 330+ whp FD and lost everytime pretty badly from a roll.
#25
Originally Posted by Busa413
You're not going to beat a properly ridden litre bike or bigger with 320hp in a car and it's going to take a hell of a lot more than 700 to 800RWHP to take out a 240+RWHP Turbo Busa. It took an Supercharged Viper 886RWHP to just edge out a stock Hayabusa with a good rider and on average takes about 800RWHP+ to beat a Busa as long as the rider knows what he's doing. If he sits up at all he is going to hurt his chances bad because just like you said aerodynamics on a bike suck compaired to a car.
Shouldn't take that much to beat a bike... A 550 whp FD should run the same quarter as a stock Busa.... So from a roll the FD would have the advantage...