XxMerlinxX

iTrader: (2)

I take it you ported the wastegate and had a boost controller though, correct? You'd have to if you were to maintain stock boost levels.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

yup the key is STAYING 10 psi. Boost controller... ported turbos. But after changing my magnaflow exhaust to a RB dual I experenced creep to 11.5 psi so I bought a PFC and tuned it to 12 psi. My next bottle neck was injector duty cycle. 85%...

ArmenMAxx

iTrader: (21)

with MP its no suprise you had boost creep. The boost controlloer was key tho. Right now if i was to get a boost controller, keep it at 10psi id know its ok. but my only concern is damaging the engine with my current setup. im not experience creep now, but cb will go on.and hopefuly ill maintan not having creep. I just hope i dont run lean, thats all. Im saving for Intercooler, Intake, and ypipe, then ill tune it for sure. For now, i think im going to take it to a tune place and ask them to datalog it with a pre set tune.

BTW im reading the commander boost readings, and heard its not accurate. When my gauge comes in, ill let you guys know what exact PSI im at. hoping its less then 11

also, is 65% injector duty good/normal? i know about 80% is not good, but with just dp, hfc should it be this high?

Montego

iTrader: (1)

I didn't get creep UNTIL I replaced my Magnaflow with a racing beat CB. I had a MP for the longest time before that. A boost controller will not do a damn thing for creep.


I had heard the same thing too about the boost on the PFC not displaying the true boost.... it does read a different boost level. That has never set well with me and like I said mod your car and examine what exactly is going on and then take your course of action.


For me: I have 3 guages that read boost:
1) autometer boost gauge (cheap can't be trusted, but originally used it a point of reference)
2) from my greedy boost controller display
3) my PFC

all read different boost levels. For the longest time (until now) I went by what the boost controller displayed which is capped off at a different spot than where the map sensor is hooked up. If you cap off at different spots in your intake system you will get different psi results that is a given. So what's the true reading then?

Boost level is all relative to what the map sensor reads so if the PFC is reading from the map sensor is that the true boost then? True boost stating that's where mazda determined the proper fuel curves.

Simple solution actually, I am going to tee off at the map sensor and connect my boost controller there and if the boost levels match then we have our answer.

That means that your injectors are at 65% capacity in order provide the fuel that the PFC is telling to provide. If you were running a richer map that % would go up. So in reality what's important is your A/F ratio and what % your injectorduty cycle is at in order to provide that fuel. Right now your injector duty cycle is not saying much.

M-

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

didn't read through the whole thread but i kind of chuckled at those who said the type S is no competition. sure it is a tiny bit slower but it is still a close race between the 2 because of better techonology. i have driven a few type S' on long straightways while doing used car inspections so i got to kind of beat on them a little before turning them over to sales. once past 6k and the V-tak(lol) kicks in it actually pulls fairly well for a little honduh 4 banger. only modded TII can take them and stock FDs(in good working order).

Silverfc88

iTrader: (7)

Hmm, I never seem to have that problem? T2's run 15.2 stock trim and with intake and exhaust mid 13's.

andyfc3s

I have a lot of experience with both cars and the dc5 isn't very slow. I beat my buddy's dc5 with my old t2.Mods
DC5-dc cold air intake, jackson racing race header, comptech catback with no cats.
TII- apexi afc, hks racing suction intake, apexi catback with resonator removered, no secondary cat, stock primary cat.

I would consistently beat him by about 2 cars give or take a half a car depending on stuff. We are both fantastic drivers and these were rolling starts and strait drags. Great car those dc5's gotta give them due respect. That however doesn't change the fact that you should have murdered him, your cars jacked.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

It is no competition go back and pay special attention at the dyno graphs and 1/4 mile times. They are no match for a properly working FD.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

whatever you say, i forgot to mention the type S i drove had Intake and a fart can which probably totalled less than $300 in parts and responded well to them i guess...unfortunately with any turbo car doing even some simple mods can be quite costly because boost creep becomes an expensive issue to deal with. not that those mods on a seven would cause much creep but then again the power increase would be minimal.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

??? Sorry chief you lost me there? who is talking about price?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

good point, he brings up the cost of the mods on the RSX, neglecting the fact that the FD costs twice as much as the RSX to begin with..

rx7henry

Okay. You are from California, so I will be assuming all of these are US market cars. If you CAN beat a Type S Rsx, but CAN'T beat an Integra Type R, something has to be up. The Type R is either heavily modded, or the Type S can't drive for beans. I don't know what mods you have, but if you can kill a Type S, you can murder a Type R. If you look at most road test, the Type S Rsx will outrun a Type R in most situations, and outspecs it by some.

rx7henry

I'm sure your car with intake and exhaust can shave 2 seconds of your time.....you keep telling yourself that. If anything, you forgot to mention you raised the boost along with those 2 mods & even then without proper tuning, you will barely get there. I doubt that any tii can go from 15.2 to 13.5 with JUST intake & exhaust. My 2 cents, unless anyone wants to reiterate.

RoTa7

yup thats possable i didnt pull over and start a interview on him and whats in his car

jic

iTrader: (1)

hondas are the ****!!! hahaha jk

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i was using it as reference to similar mods since the one i had driven was slightly modded, asshats. but anyways, how many stock FDs are still in perfect running order pushing out stock numbers? yea...

maybe you meant to say "an RSX type S is no comeptition for a well running stock FD", which seems to be about less than half of the ones currently running on the roads as many have boost issues, lower than desirable compression, semi plugged cats, lack of maintenance, etc. etc. etc.

i didn't really intend to start an argument over a simple statement, i don't consider walking a car as being "no competition" as even a semi unskilled driver can make or break a race.

rx7henry

Spoken completely unbiased & true.

HEVNSNT

iTrader: (3)

Of course that's what he meant. Why would he suggest comparing a type S to an FD that is not in good running condition. An RSX can beat a Ferrari in not good running condition. FD's are well over 10yrs old, of course there's gonna be a few not running well.

HEVNSNT

iTrader: (3)

In one post you say you driven a few of them.

And now you talk of a specific car.


I just don't understand why you picked a specific car when we're trying to make a general comparison stock vs stock. Did the other ones you drove have the same mods?

How much power do you think this $300 added? My stock FD dynoed 232WHP. I doubt an RSX with $300 in mods can can top that.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it's funny when you guys get all hell bent and pissed when topics like this come up. what my main point was is not to underestimate these little poop cans, just a few mods and they could be walking your stock FD instead and by most reactions around here i think some of the egos are too fragile to accept a loss like that.


your dyno is broken sir.

HEVNSNT

iTrader: (3)

Agree. My first post in this thread I gave props to the RSX and I still do. But you can't pick and chose senarios to prove your point. The whole point is stock vs stock the FD is faster, period. Even still, I highly doubt an intake/exhaust type S can yield enough power to take a stock FD (my assumptions as I have no data to back that up). You can mod just about any car to make it faster than an FD.

Are we hell bent and pissed? Maybe. Are you concerned that we are? You appear to be. Just an open discussion, don't take it the wrong way.
(And it aint my dyno. Broken? Maybe but I doubt it.)

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

I didn't read all the posts... but there's something up with your car OR (I know you said otherwise) you're driving skills need assistance.

One idea (if you trust this guy, I wouldn't do it EVER personally): switch cars. You drive his and he drives yours. If the RSX wins again, you can eliminate driver skill as a contributing factor.

FIX YOUR CAR AND GO GET 'EM!

Montego

iTrader: (1)

+1

this whole thread is about the thread starter's car not running properly. Who the **** compares broken down cars with properly running new vehicles? That's just stupid...

money has nothing to do with this conversation.... asshat.

did you even look at the dyno graphs that I posted?

This thread is about a guy with an RSX-S with just a CAI beating a stock FD. What does this mean to you?

Make: 02' RSX Type-S Engine: K20A2 Stock CR
Modifications: AEM Cold Air Intake, DC Race Header, HKS High Power Exhaust, Hondata Reflash


180 FWHP with mods... compared to a rear wheel drive car that dynos at around 225 AT THE WHEELS STOCK.


I'm starting to get the feeling that there are some FD haters in this thread.

rx7henry

OKAY. I know for a fact that most posting have probably never even been in the RSX Type S. Given it is not the fastest vehicle, and not any faster than an RX-7, I would like you to drive one before talking loads of ****. Most of you only know Rx-7's and think they are the fastest cars on the road.

I don't give a damn if this was 1993 and your car was brand new off the god damn dealership. Run the type S and if you can pull away like SO MANY OF YOU CLAIM, then you have proven your point. But a stock, near perfect condition FD will win, but you will find that it won't be as much as you are assuming.

Quit posting the same goddamn numbers, thats what you've been doing on your last couple of post. Look at the stock dyno numbers on an FD. They're not as impressive as you may think either for a rotary with twin turbos.

I really don't understand why it is so hard to accept. You have people like montego arguing with infinite effort about how it can't happen. Bring it to a track and try racing some even lightly modified k series. The rotary is no longer the only small engine that can make power. Accept it, and if not, sit hear and continue to bicker about how the Rx7 is the greatest, and only car aloud to be fast.

Go ahead and flame because I know MANY, MANY of you are biased when it comes to other cars, as "nothing can beat the rx-7". I love rx7's myself, but I am sick of seeing just one-sided arguements when I come into these threads.

"The rx7 is faster," and if its not then lets break out ALL THE EXCUSES......lets throw age of car, poor driver, lets use mileage, or mis-shifting....thats ALL I ever see. And when you walk a car, you claim to completely smoke it, visa versa if the car smokes you, you say it walked a little. Its never been, "oh, that must have been a fast car he raced," or "wow, good kill for the other guy".

Dyno numbers ARE nothing if the car doesn't prove itself on the track. My tii doesn't dyno any higher than those numbers you KEEP ON posting, but the car is running strong and completely fine, with good compression numbers across the board.

And no, there are no FD haters here. All I see are Rsx haters & potential haters after they read what some of these haters have to say.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Have you ridden in good working stock FD? I doubt it... I doubt that you have even ridden in an FD.

Even so what does that has to do with anything? I've smoked 3 RSX-S at ten psi so I don't need to get into one. My friend's 240 HP boxter puts up much more of a fight than those things.


well what do you think 45 more HP gets you? tell me... 1 car, 2 cars, 3 cars...

yeah you don't like the numbers do you? Kinda puts a damper on your expert BIASED opinion. If people stopped ignoring them and actually backed up their *** dyno's with some facts I would stop. PROVE me wrong. So far all you have said is "I've ridden in one and it was fast according to me". Seriously WTF is that?

By the same token I have DRIVEN my friend's C5 and that **** feels fast due to the torque. Actually makes my Rx-7 feel like the kids version. But when we line up I smoke his *** easily... From a roling start or a freeway roll it does not matter. My seven has a better power to weigt ratio so I win.

I posted 1/4 mile times already... what do you have to back up your reasoning? That's all I ask is for you to prove yopur reasoning but you won't because you can't.

no that would be the SRT-4. (certainly not the RSX )

Really who has said that the RX-7 is the end all of performance?? no one. Just because thr RSX is not in it's league you don't have to put words in our mouths.

back up your claims... and you won't get any arguments from me.

You talk too much and make generalizations. The tittle of the thread is: "lol I got slaughtered...."

https://www.rx7club.com/racing-kills-lounge-10/lol-i-got-slaughtered-543766/

no excuses, my car was running correctly, there wasn't a driver error involved and I got slaughtered... By a faster car.

First of all who is talking about racing cars on the track? This whole conversation has been about a rolling start where the driver's skill is taken out of the equation. All that is left is car, weight, & power.

LOL! so my ten speed is rated at 1 man power, does that mean I can take on ZO6's at the track? according to you maybe.

Whatever dude... Back up your claims with something, anything other than your *** dyno. Because so far you haven't said ****.