cagedruss

Hey Paul, very clean cage. I am glad to see who ever built the cage that they braced the "Petty Bar". A lot of people don't, that will help transfer energy through the entire cage and will make it safer. Nice Job!

sctty

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2236658010034877514sGkSvC

Wouldn't the 's' bends in the door bars at the main hoop attachment point compromise their effectiveness? Rather that feeding load from a side impact into the main hoop would the 's' bend give, or then overstress the welds?

cagedruss

I agree with the "S" bend statements. But there are some cars that it is impossible not to do the "S" bend because the main hoop is so far back from the door opening/B pillar. I do everything I can not to do it. If you read back to the beginning somewhere on this thread, I believe we discuss it.

He as a nice door bar none the less, many tubes to help off set the load.

EProdRx7

I'll agree. Sometimes it's unavoidable. I’m doing a S2000 now and had to do the S bend, but I make the rear most bend as shallow as possible so that it intersects with the main hoop still pointing out. Kind of a lazy S or so. I usually add an extra bar when I have to do one of these. I’ll try to post some pics soon. If that is OK with you guys, I know it’s a Honda and all…

EProdRx7

S2000 More pics when it's done.

sctty

Not really generically applicable (the S2000 above), but what about something like this as a compromise:

http://www.pcs.cnu.edu/~mchristi/pics/fs/drv-door2.jpg

The extra bracing is a weight penalty...but it seems like it would be strong?

christaylor

Except that brace is now in shear in the event of a direct side impact.

Speed Raycer

That sort of looks like an "Opps... I made the main hoop a little to tight to the chassis" moment.

It actually took me a moment or two to realize what the builder had done. I was so focused on looking for the shear CT referred to that I didn't realize it wasn't the main hoop that the doorbars were attached to!

Good to see this discussion come back up.... I guess with it being the off season, we're all pretty busy!

EProdRx7

More Honda

EProdRx7

and more

cagedruss

Very Nice job, cars are a little bastard!

EProdRx7

I hate to say it but it is a very nice car. Hardest part was the brackets for the hard top. Once you remove the factory roll bar there is nothing left to attach to.

cagedruss

I have done 3 S2000 Roll bars for track day cars, Lots of frigg'n plastic in that car. I have noticed it resembles a Miata once you get the interior out of it.

EProdRx7

Thankfully the car came to me stripped. I found it easier then the Miata because it's all open on the back side of the mainhoop. Didn't have to have any special order to the final welding. Only parts I had to weld not in place were the bits around the windshield.

cagedruss

Finished up a Lancer Evo that I have been working on for awhile now. Car competes in ITE and SPM here in Oregon and Washington.

Car went under the scalpel for weight reduction and also received all new adjustable coil over suspension.











We are painting the interior this weekend, then I can attached the new roof skin and drop the car to the floor.

EProdRx7

No fair taking bthe roof off!

Speed Raycer

Looks good Russ!
Out of curiousity, what guage material do you use for the stamped taco gussets in the door and who made your dimple die set? I'm getting ready to buck up for a new press and dimple die set after the next cage gets finished.

Latest projects:
Drift 240sx

More Pics: http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/240sxCage.html

E36 M3

More: http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/BMWM3Cage.html

GM F-body (imports have ruined me... nothing was the same from one side to the other on this car.... by design! No wonder GM is tanking)

More Pics:http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/CPFBody.html

Been doing lots of doorbar updates too and getting to see other cage designs. Makes me wonder how other people interperet the "360 Degree weld" rule to mean "whatever can be reached while comfortable"

cagedruss

Ha! Had to remove the skin to get rid of the power sunroof. it was about 50lbs. I really enjoyed doing it that way, I am going to offer doing it more.



Thanks,

Made the gussets out of 16 gauge sheet steel. Cut the pattern and then man handle the piece to the shape I need from the pattern. The diples are formed from tools from Mittler Bros. They make a wide range of sizes.

link

paul_3rdgen

iTrader: (6)

Here are a few bad pics of my 6 point cage with full interior still in, good for my street/track fun.

EProdRx7

16g.? That seems a bit thick. I have used in the past ~20g with good results. Got that from the Porsche GT3 cup cars. You're bending that by hand or in a press.

cagedruss

It may be a little more aggressive but I have pent up hostilities and I find it therapeutic to bend steel in my hands over a length of steel in a vise. The gussets I did in the E46 M3 posted earlier was also 16 gauge.

The weight gain from 20 to 16 for a small piece is minimal but I would rather have the additional strength for my customer's safety. I am not saying in any way using 20 or 18 is not correct in anyway!!!! It is just my preference.

Take care all!

Speed Raycer

I've been using 18 guage with the Mittler Bros flares. Do you use a press to punch them or the bolt method? Do the MB flares do alright with the 16ga?

When I have some spare time (yeah right), I'm going to make a press fixture to bend them up. Right now, I'm usuing a combination of techniques but see how I could make it work with one press session

cagedruss

No, just been using the 3/8" Impact Wrench with the 9/16"" socket. I use a little oil on the threads and flare and set the gun to med. I watch the flare tool pull together and as soon as I see the metal around the flare flatten out I stop. I replace the 3/8" bolt when the head get worn. The threads are heat treated and I haven't any problems with them. I have had them for about 10 years now, good investment!

Another reason for 16g is that I have a source of rems for really cheap!

Congtrats on the news you pm'ed me! I have two also, wouldn't change a thing!

EProdRx7

I've used mostly 20 in the past but I think I'll try the 16 on my next stock order. Should be easier to weld. With the 20 you have to be very carefull not to burn it and warp the crap out of it. I have also been toying with the idea of building a press fixture but time never seems to pemit. I guess the bolt will do for now. Makes for a bit of a challenge when you are doing 1/2's in a small piece (ouch)!

cagedruss

Here is a few shots of the previous Evo with new paint!







We had a lot of fun painting this, owner, my shop friend and I painted then polished off a bottle and a half of JD and Cokes. Lots of funs. A few guys talking about racing, drinking and laughing. Good times!!