Go Back  RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum > Tech and Performance > Race Car Tech
Reload this Page >

Perf Radiator ?: Koyo/Fluidyne/Mazda Motorsports....

Race Car Tech Discuss anything related to road racing and auto X.

Perf Radiator ?: Koyo/Fluidyne/Mazda Motorsports....

Old 07-08-04, 04:16 PM
  #1  
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Perf Radiator ?: Koyo/Fluidyne/Mazda Motorsports....

I'm building my car to be streetable but mainly focusing on tearing up the road race tracks here in Northern California.

I've tackled the following: suspension/wheels/brakes/driveline (425rwhp/400rwtq)

I now am looking to upgrade the cooling system.

SR Motorsports makes a 2" thick replacement radiator.... anyone running this?

Is the Koyo or the Fluidyne supposed to be better?

Lastly what about about the Mazda Motorsports unit?

Are the stock fans sufficient or do those need to be upgraded also?

Thanks in advance,

-Mark
gnx7 is offline  
Old 07-08-04, 05:37 PM
  #2  
Junior Member
5 Year Member
 
GT3_racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Ft Worth Tx
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Radiator

I run a gt3 car in Texas and Oklahoma, it gets hot here and I had to duct off my radiator and oil coller because they were not getting warm enough on a 100 plus day, what did I use? a ADDCO racing radiator from a circle track shop, daul pass and fit great, at about 1/3rd the cost of the Mazda unit.
GT3_racer is offline  
Old 07-08-04, 06:18 PM
  #3  
Rotary Enthusiast
10 Year Member
 
John Magnuson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The SR Motorsports Radiator is a relabled Koyo Radiator. Don't pay extra for the label.
John Magnuson is offline  
Old 07-08-04, 07:33 PM
  #4  
Has been.. hangin' around
10 Year Member
 
Silkworm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Milpitas, CA
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Koyo's not big enough IMHO

Look at having a Griffin custom setup for you, then fab brackets to mount it

PaulC
Silkworm is offline  
Old 07-08-04, 08:01 PM
  #5  
Mad Man

 
Carl Byck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Big Island Hawaii
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Use the new AWR. (that is a period at the end of that sentence)...
Carl Byck is offline  
Old 07-09-04, 01:01 AM
  #6  
I'll blow it up real good
10 Year Member
iTrader: (1)
 
RX-Heven's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
AWR supplies many of the Mazdacomp radiators. That or a griffin would be my choice.

Last edited by RX-Heven; 07-09-04 at 01:03 AM.
RX-Heven is offline  
Old 07-09-04, 10:51 AM
  #7  
Post quality not quantity
10 Year Member
 
bond007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Anyone care to bring some tech to this besides just saying that model X is better than Y in practical experience? Explanations or data as to why? Avg cooling temperature differences between brands?

I'm looking for a good radiator to cool a track FD3S (no longer going to be a stock car, so it needs an aftermarket radiator).

Why would one 2" core radiator be better than another? The Fluidyne, IIRC, is not a 2", so compared to the Koyo, the Koyo would have better cooling capacity if all other variables were the same (provided the extra 0.5" didn't choke airflow or something like that)?

Parameters that I have found:
Size of core (well, can't do much about that if you want it to fit in a stock application)
Fin density (fins per inch, I guess if it looks "packed" then it is about as good as you can get)
Number of tube rows (most aftermarket upgrades are 2 row and thus thicker core)

What makes these other radiators better?

I'm looking at non-name-brand radiator with a 2-row 2 1/16" core. Why would a Koyo be better or worse than this?

Silkworm: approximate cost on the custom Griffin setup? Specs on the core?

GT3_racer: looked at double-pass, it won't be as easy to implement because of the plumbing location change...
bond007 is offline  
Old 07-09-04, 11:00 AM
  #8  
Lives on the Forum
10 Year Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: n
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Hey gnx7, are we talking about your FC or FD?
There are vastly different answers depending on which year?


-Ted
RETed is offline  
Old 07-09-04, 12:51 PM
  #9  
Full Member
5 Year Member
 
bradrx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: on track
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The key to proper cooling is ducting. I've piddled with this for years on track FDs and my current setup (Koyo, moved my PS line to a power steering cooler, removed AC condensor and completely fabricated NO LEAK ducting) works very well in Texas heat. I run 11-12psi boost and the water temps stay at 190-195 with oil temps around 200. Call 1-800-radiator, get a Koyo and do the ductwork.
bradrx7 is offline  
Old 07-09-04, 01:55 PM
  #10  
Has been.. hangin' around
10 Year Member
 
Silkworm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Milpitas, CA
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I was running a 26x19 IIRC, it was too wide, and too deep to fit with the swaybar and battery. If the battery isn't an issue, 26x16 will work nicely, otherwise 24x16

You'll want to have them put 1.5" inlet/outlets on the passenger side, and a 5/8" heater bung on the lower side (unless you've blocked off your heater line)

Make sure to specify the sizes on inlet/outlet, as the standard comes with a 1.75" outlet on the bottom

Shouldn't cost that much, I think I heard something around 250.

The hassle will be mounting it, since it won't come with mounting brackets.

PaulC
Silkworm is offline  
Old 07-10-04, 01:11 AM
  #11  
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Thanks for the replies guys... I think this can be a good topic for many of us.

RETed- My FC is in RX-7 heaven. I'm building the FD all out now.

Paul (Silkworm)- If you cut the radiator supports I was able to fit a 27.5x19" Griffen $189 radiator in my FC. Not pretty... but functional. Allows a beefy 18" fan that will pull crazy cfm.

I would like to know the physics behind this one myself... I do plan to do some ducting to let no air past the heat exchanger and direct it fully thru it as nearly every dedicated race car I've seen has this setup. Small opening sealed duct up front that opens up to the nearly the full size of the radiator and seats. Basically a box in front of the radiator. This is on a Southwest tour car (NASCAR 600hp 358ci Ford) and on an SCCA full tube chassis Stang (Greg Picket's car).

GT3 Racer- Could you PM... I'd like to talk to you further about your setup. What fan (s) are you running?

TX guys should have some good input as they certainly aren't living in the North Pole during the summer!

-GNX7
gnx7 is offline  
Old 07-10-04, 10:44 AM
  #12  
www.lms-efi.com
iTrader: (27)
 
C. Ludwig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Floyds Knobs. IN
Posts: 5,106
Received 30 Likes on 23 Posts
I'm with Silkworm. Have it fabricated and save a couple bills. I had a Howe core custom fabbed for my ITS car and it came in around $250. Mine was pretty much a bolt in with custom hoses. Just take your time and measure it accurately and fitment shouldn't be a problem.

As far as performance, the core is a 2-row with 1" tubes. It's setup for double pass which is more efficient than a single pass. Pretty sure all the aftermarket rads are double pass anyway. Water temps are always right in the 210 area (with the exception of some high temps last weekend...guessing we had a bunch of air in the system). At any rate, DO NOT underestimate the cooling needs of a track car. Having said what I run, I would strongly recommend a 3-row core on anything, especially a boosted motor. A 3-row will not give an extra 33% of cooling but every bit helps.

As has been mentioned, ducting is all important. Seal the flow to the rad and get eveything else out of the way. Some form of extaction behind the radiator or at the back of the hood helps as well.

Fans won't make the system. If you're not getting cool air on the rad without a fan, the fan will not be able to pull cool air through it.
C. Ludwig is offline  
Old 07-22-04, 12:14 PM
  #13  
Rotary Freak
5 Year Member
 
cruiser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Slovenia, Europe
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Koyo is nice, but without proper ducting it's not doing its job.
cruiser is offline  
Old 04-03-06, 01:13 AM
  #14  
No money. No love.
iTrader: (12)
 
SmogSUX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: SACRAMENTO
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sorry about the thread ressurection, but has anyone seen the new Dual pass koyos? They look pretty promising, but I haven't seen anyone give their thoughts on it.
I have a Griffin Dual-row that I was going to get some custom brackets put on, but am not sure yet..
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Would the new Koyo be better? I know I can use the stock shroud with it which would be a plus..I have a Black magic fan that I was going to put on the Griffin as well. I use my car for daily driving and auto cross and Thunder Hill track events...It might become less of a daily driver once I buy another car.

Koyo seen here:
http://mazdatrix.com/b8.htm
SmogSUX is offline  
Old 04-03-06, 11:24 PM
  #15  
Rotary Enthusiast
10 Year Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: North Hollywood, Ca USA
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Do a search on aluminum radiators and a bunch of stock car shops can build a custom unit for about half the AWR or KOYO. I had mine built by Childress Racecars in North Carolina. Faxed them a hand drawing with dimensions and in a week I had my radiator. with shipping about $300. double pass and I have never had any overheating problems. AWR and Koyo are better if all the OEM systems are to be kept. AWR uses Ron Davis cores which are one of the best(maybe the best) but are not cheap.
tims is offline  
Old 04-03-06, 11:58 PM
  #16  
GET OFF MY LAWN
10 Year Member
iTrader: (1)
 
jgrewe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Fla.
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If you need something to bolt right in go ahead and pay the top dollar. I'm suggesting the same thing a few other members already have. I found a used Addco radiator from a Chevy powered stockcar for $75. I cut one hose nipple off and moved it to the passenger side with the other one(it was a cross flow). Half way between the hose nipples I cut a slot in the end tank, shoved a plate into the slot and welded it all up. So now I have a deluxe double pass 4 core radiator for under $100.
Oil cooling should be your bigger concern.
Hit the swap meets and save some dough.
jgrewe is offline  
Old 04-06-06, 12:36 AM
  #17  
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
 
t-von's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Midland Texas
Posts: 6,707
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 7 Posts
I got a new custom made one that will cool with out any problems fro sale.

https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/pettit-banzai-20b-radiator-sale-523477/
t-von is offline  
Old 04-06-06, 01:32 AM
  #18  
strictly business
5 Year Member
iTrader: (8)
 
KeloidJonesJr.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: chamber of farts
Posts: 6,187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Koyo with an efan is the way to go.
KeloidJonesJr. is offline  
Old 04-07-06, 07:17 AM
  #19  
Rotary Freak
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Belgium
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
is all of this based on aftermarket cores with thesame sieze core as standard or are we talking bigger? I'm going to have a custom one built as well but still debating about stock size core and thickness...
Speedworks is offline  
Old 04-07-06, 07:19 PM
  #20  
Rotary Enthusiast
10 Year Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: North Hollywood, Ca USA
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I built mine with a core that was the size of the opening, which is about an inch wider. If you use a double pass(so both hose connections are on the same side) you wont have any cooling problems with the same size as stock. they custom guys will weld on the brackets and all you need to di is mount it to the stock location. a couple minutes of measuring and a couple phone calls is all it takes.
tims is offline  
Old 04-12-06, 02:12 AM
  #21  
Panda Bear
10 Year Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Turbo23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Lititz, PA
Posts: 1,724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Anyone who happens to know or has the AWR unit for a FC know the demensions? I want to know if a flex-a-lite fan measuring H-17.5 and W- 21.5 will fit the face, and not conflict with the upper hose connection
Turbo23 is offline  
Old 04-15-06, 02:36 AM
  #22  
Panda Bear
10 Year Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Turbo23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Lititz, PA
Posts: 1,724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I know one of you guys has one. lets go with the info
Turbo23 is offline  
Old 04-15-06, 07:09 PM
  #23  
Rotary Enthusiast
10 Year Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: North Hollywood, Ca USA
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
the AWR unit is exact an replica of the OEM unit only with a slightly thicker core, so if it fits the stock radiator it will fit the AWR unit.
tims is offline  
Old 04-16-06, 08:21 AM
  #24  
Potato Love
10 Year Member
 
Larz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Normal, Illinois
Posts: 1,344
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I use a koyo. Compared to stock it is huge. My temps have never went over 200 on the hottest of days on the street with the AC on. I haven't tracked my car, just auto xed. But it's worked well for me. I just had to shim up the Intercooler shroud a little so it didin't contact the fans.
Larz is offline  
Old 04-16-06, 04:22 PM
  #25  
Rotary Freak
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Belgium
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Huge in the sence of thickness or is the core larger regarding lenght and width?


Originally Posted by Larz
I use a koyo. Compared to stock it is huge. My temps have never went over 200 on the hottest of days on the street with the AC on. I haven't tracked my car, just auto xed. But it's worked well for me. I just had to shim up the Intercooler shroud a little so it didin't contact the fans.
Speedworks is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Perf Radiator ?: Koyo/Fluidyne/Mazda Motorsports....


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: