Larz

double thickness. Twice that of OEM. That's why you have to flip the brackest when installing it that come off the old radiator.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

On my 1st gen I use a Howe aluminum radiator, available from summitracing.com for $250 at the time. 22" x 19" , 1.5" thickI think. Stant 25psi cap.

The bridgeport water was running too cool, I had to put duct tape over the rad to warm it back up.

tims

the radiator is the same length and width so that it will mount to the OEM location. core is thicker for better cooling. it was designed to bolt in as the OEM with all threaded fittings for all OEM systems. don't know about installation procedures but size is the same as OEM.

Turbo23

iTrader: (4)

i dont have access to my car, since Im in the middleeast, but what are the dimensions of the stock radiator (FC) I know RX-Heaven had a vintage air fan and shroud, and had to modify the shroud to fit alittle. Just checking everything before I purchased anything

Carl Byck

That was a set-up CAR& came up with, search his posts, my Radiator is alot larger, so no use to you, on the fans which are twin FALs with a frame, and flaps. GL, Carl

carbon man

proper ducting is the one of the keys to good cooling, You MUST decrease the under bonnet pressure, (more bonnet vents are good) seal around the lights and oil cooler to stop unsued air from entering the under bonnet area, increase the louvers in the undertay to suck more air out (becarefull not to let too much air under the car or you will have less grip)
Don't use the radiator or intercooler ducting to feed air to the airbox, (it will lower the air pressure in front of the radiator)
Make sure the ducting to the radiator and intercooler is sealing properly as the air will take the easiest path.

one of the other keys to good cooling is bleeding ALL the air out of the system and not having air locks.

another key is to have efficent water flow. If you have restrictions in the cooling system like tight bends and ill fitting hose work the waterpump can build pressure on the pumped side but will be sucking on the inlet side and this lowers the boiling point of the water at the pump. If the water boils at the pump the pump will cavitate and the problem is amplefied.

If using a front mount intercooler try to put as big a gap as practical between the cores (do not mount directly to each other) and make sure the ducting seals between the cores. With a gap between the cores the air has a bit of time to redirect the air before entering the second core.

If you can use seperate ducting for the intercooler and the radiator.

Turbo23

iTrader: (4)

Intresting thing for the IC to radiator gap. I try to mimic what I see from RE Amemiyas street/track cars. One thing I have noticed about there white FC and FD, is that the IC is very close to the raidator. I have placed my IC only a couple inches from my radiator,moved my oil cooler up behind my front bumper, and cut the front bumper to match. I will be ducting from the front bumper back.

carbon man

the other thing that I have found that helps is to have the coolers laying all most flat and have the air enter from the under side and of the coolers. Mazda is one of the few car builders that has done that in production cars. Heat rises so if the cold air enters under the cooler then when it heats up it rises and pulls more cold air in to replace what has risen. This works when the car is stationary without the need for fans, once the car starts to move the increased air pressure in the front of the radiator forces the air through. On cars where the radiator is standing verticaly when the car is stationary the hot air rises from both sides and fills the radiator duct with hot air and as soon as you increase the air pressure on the front of the radiator it has to push that hot air back through the radiator before it can get some cool air. This condition is tipical in stop start traffic and on a standing start to a race.