86vtfc

i'll start off by telling you i have a 86gxl. I have racingbeat true dual exhaust ther springs and swaybars and endlinks, tokico illumina struts, corksport strut tower braces, k/n filter, short throw shifter. i Am gettin into auto-x more and did a track day last year. I don't need more power but handling sucked for me. i Was wondering how i can get my car to turn better. Such as stripping the interior would this be worth it and want else would you guys recremend

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Unless your bushings are completely shot with that setup the car should turn pretty fast. What did you not like about the handling? Are you sure the problem isn't in your driving?

ZeroDrift

iTrader: (1)

Get a nicer set if lightweight rims and sticky tires. I typically was the fastest Rx7 during most events I attended. I had Yokohama AVS100's and they were a decent tire for auto cross. Tire size was 225-45-R16 and I had 16x8" Skyline rims (16lbs each) and I was quite pleased so long as it wasn't too hot out as the tires get very greasy when hot. Look into a set of Falken Azenis and Potenza RE-01R's. Those will defiantly help you shave off some time while allowing you to drive to the track with them.

Also- look at the link in my sig for driving tips. Remember the driver makes the largest difference in times! Good luck!

ZeroDrift

iTrader: (1)

Also check your alignment. It will vary with tire choice, but try to set camber in the rear about -1 degree in the rear, and -.5 in the front. Keep Caster and toe at factory settings. Should your tires get greasy when hot, bring a spray bottle with water to cool em down between runs. I find the roofing spray bottles with a large pump and a detachable spray wand work really well and only cost about $15 at Home Depot.

Also- get some swaybars from a Sport or go aftermarket. The sport has 24mm swaybar stock and will be less expensive.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Have you checked with a pyrometer to confirm that this is the best camber setting? When my car was stock I had -0.5 of camber and I would wear out the outer edges long before the inner with just hard street driving. I would think our cars lose more than 0.5* of camber in a corner, especially considering FDs gain -3* of camber at 2 inches of compression and still run -1-2* static.

I forgot about wheels and tires, either go with the Vert wheels or the S5 TII meshes for a cheap wheel upgrade.

86vtfc

i think i may buy some better tires i was underteering like crazy. I had some old tires on and wanted to ware them out. I just didn't want to turn on corner exits i would jus slide diagnolly. I would have to tap the brakes to throw the wieght alittle and then turn in more. What do you guys think of the toyo r888 I can pick some up dirt cheap from a friend because he wreckesd his car before he even got to use them.

ccanepa50

iTrader: (1)

you might want to get camber plates for the front and dial in a bunch of neg camber (easily 3º or more) the Rtriple 8 are really great tires, they like lots 'o' neg camber (or a little more).........
how much camber you want?....... "All of it"

wrankin

+1 on the camber plates for the front. Also you may want to look around for the the adjustable rear subframe support that allows you to dial your camber in for the rears. I'm not familiar enough with the RB spring setup, but if it drops the rear then you may have picked up some neg. camber back there which could be exacerbating your lack of bite in the front.

With the Cusco camber plates, I can get a little over -2.5 degrees of camber in the front. -3 would probably be a little better. I run about a degree less in the rears.

From everything I've heard the R888 are great tires. I run the older RA1s on the track.

-b

finky

iTrader: (2)

http://www.evoschool.com/