jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

very nice videos, fritz. i really want to do VIR, but we have road atlanta, barber, putnam, roebling, (corvette track in 3 months) and several others all closer! just so damn far away.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Thanks!

Understood, I've never been anywhere but VIR and Summit Point

However one of these days I'd love to go to RA and WG.

VIR is so frikken cool, if there's ever a 3 day event on the Grand course don't miss it.

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

Nice driving Fritz!! Still looking forward to getting out there with you guys lol

rceron

Another perspective on Fritz's lap. Two consecutive laps following (trying to keep up) Fritz.

Hope the data helps those trying to figure some things out.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Fritz, were those C51's as well that you corded or a different brand? I'm curious your thoughts on the C51's. I just got a set of them and will try them out once I burn up some V710's.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Ramon, great time out there with you both on and off the track and thanks for posting up the vid

Cool data, nice speed into 3 etc....

Nope corded some hoosier A6 275 35 17s which actually still had decent grip for about 5 laps but after several hard laps they are done once they have some cycles on them. In the vid ramon posted up following me I'm probably running a 4 or 5x lap on 6 day old tires which is pretty damn good. I doubt R6s would of been as fast although they would not of corded.

I love Hankook tires; the price is right, they don't leak, they balance well and they are almost as good as hoos and last longer. Too much win for me not to use them. The c71s also kick *** and I think they are at least 1 second faster than the 51s.

See pics of corded rear tires and clearly my camber could be better but it's set for 275 40 17s.

Also check pics of cracked rotor. This is what happens when you run a couple of extra sessions after you see one or two small cracks all the way out to the edge.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Longevity is what I'm looking for... With R6's basically giving you 10 or so decent heat cycles and low numbers in my TT class, it's quite a bit of money to put on Hoosiers. Even if the C51's are a little slower, I don't think I'll mind if I get some more weekends out of them. My main issue though with Hankook is their lack of supply. If I continue to run Hankook's, I'll likely have to order a year's worth of tires up front to ensure I have them for the events.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Yep I'm also a member of cheap bastard racing

See that tan thing on top of the corded tire, that's your old head liner hehe

evo_koa

iTrader: (2)

What brand rotors are those?

rceron

Agreed. Great time hanging out. Did 250 track miles so the event was better than expected. Must repeat. Not sure when though. BTW, I knew you were good for a 2:03. It was evident from my video. Later.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Early fall with:
Chin
BMW
PCA

We could even do NASA octoberfast and do the test and tune Fri (lots of track time) and the tt on sat sun.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Coleman racing

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Brakes:
Front: Brembo GT kit with PFC front pads: Used to run 01s but they are hell on rotors so I'm leaning more toward 06s (may not make them anymore) but my understanding is the 08s are good but either 6s or 8s are slower than 1s so as always it's a give and take scenario. Update: just tried the PFC 08s and they work well.

Rear: 99 kit with Hawke blues.

To lay down a good time I'd go with PFC 01 front and DTC 60 rear but both crack my rotors sooner than later.

Susp: Tein super racing coilovers (794 springs at each corner) and I really like these because they are durable and work well. Not the very best but by no means junk either and very economical (approx 3k). Tri point front bar .188 wall thickness currently set in the middle with the oem 93 bar out back. 93 bar is thicker than 94 or 95 and is the perfect rear bar IMO it may also be hallow because it feels light. M2 toe links but ran stock for years until they developed too much play.

Wheels and tires: SSR comps very light approx 16.5 pounds (shame they are no longer made) 17x9.5 plus 42 with 275 40 17 hankooks or Hoos however Pete just informed me that Hoosier is now making a 275 35 17 which will go on next because I'll be able to lower my car 1 inch which is HUGE!!!!!. Tried the A6 and found no improvement over c71 but not fair to compare because the alignment was off and the driver was tired (up late having a trans installed/no sleep).

Engine:
Med street port and otherwise stock. I may use the soft seals on the new build. Update Jonathan of eccentric performance GAVE me some soft seals to try out and so far so good. I need EP and PFS stickers on the car

t04r turbo running 9 or 10 psi boost at this time but may crank it up once i get the diff sorted out. Diff is overheating and leaking constantly. Diff cooler along with cage redo will take place at piper motorsports in the next few weeks.

Driveline: 4.4 carbonetics 1.5 way diff, stock trans with trans cooler. Diff is overheating and needs a cooler and should have one by the next event. B&M short shifter

Upgraded PPF extra braces welded all over the place

Fuel: Apexi BNR fuel pump in a late model jdm gas tank (improved baffles) with 1300 secondaries and 550 primaries (pump not wired to battery still has stock wiring)

PFC tuned by PFS est power at 350 with boost at 9 or 10 psi (currently shows 379 on PFS dyno but his dyno is not a heart breaker but a smile maker)

RE big vmount with custom ducting water doesn't go over 90c and air doesn't go over 55c.

Dual 25 row oil coolers with custom ducting

Aero: GTC front bumper and rear wing and I just added knock off REA rear diffuser. Plan to add a larger GT wing at some point.

Interior: Custom piper motorsports cage going in soon, Race tech halo drivers seat, recaro profi passenger seat, boost/fp/oil and water temp gauges.

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

If you can, please have them take some pics of their solution and post it up! Thanks Fritz

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Will do

KevinK2

Really enjoy getting a "back set" view of your runs & races, esp at Summit Point's big course, my home track from Delaware. I only added street type bolt ons, original suspension except 32 and 27mm hollow Eibach sway bars (rear bar cracked along fusion line, replaced by similar RB bar), vitoracers on stock wheels, and Porterfield R4 pads that I drive 100 miles to the track on.

At the Point, my shift points are about the same as yours, except I exit out of turn 10 at 4200 rpm and shift to 5th much later than you ... I'm braking at the 1st cone. Based on my stop watch, you were in the 1:19's, vs my best of 1:30 ... you are really flying, late braking, very fast dn shifting and double dn through 4th at turn 1.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Summit is a really cool combo of fast corners and technical corners that's really easy to drive semi fast but tricky to really get the most out of it because the fast corners are faster than you think. I still haven't figured it out LOL.

Yep my best time there is a 1.185.

My mental keys to attempt to unlock summit are:
Late brake into 1 which is difficult because it's bigger down hill grade than it appears, followed by a fast entry into t1, you can turn in much earlier than some may advise because there's lots of room on the back side to rotate and get back out
faster than you think possible into 3 because it's up hill which also means later brake than you think plus it's on camber but be ready to open the wheel as you crest the top
The shoot is also faster than you think but takes serious NERVE
Carousel nice and smooth with slow and smooth throttle throughout that technical section and all the way into and out of t9
hard short brake into t10 and again carry crazy speed because it's somewhat on camber and you need it to stay fast as you go up the hill

I still don't feel comfortable at SPR and have probably been there 30 times.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Great video! was great seeing the car back on track! sucks about the diff though .

Honestly I didn't even know they got that hot haha , I hope the cooler works I'm curious how they go about doing it is the heating up a trait of the carbonetics 1.5 or do even the torsens have the same issue ?

MLDoom

iTrader: (5)

Fritz where can you get replacement 99 spec rear rotors? I'm thinking about this modification but I didn't want to be stuck should I happen to need a replacement.

KevinK2

Any LSD except lockers generate lots of heat on a road course. Watch Fritz's video, but keep in mind that at each corner exit that he is heavy on the throttle, there has to be enough LSD friction at the inside axle hub to prevent spinning the tire. It creates a lot of heat, from the friction. I think GL5 hypoid gear oils must maintain some minimum viscosity during a differential tested at 300F. Even going strait at WOT, oil temp rises just because of the normal slippage at the tooth mesh, especially with vertically offset pinions and their hypoid gears.

Some of the diff pumps I've seen use a diaphram pump.

When I was frequently tracking my FD, I would change the synth diff oil after a few track days, and at the end of the season. It was pitch black just from extreme heat.

.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for the info !

KevinK2

Thanks for the tips Fritz.

I started running SPR in the 80's, before current organized events. Bill Scott would let a friend and I go out for $50 on some Fridays when GT1s and GT2s were practicing before the weekend race, IMSA or SCCA. Once Lyn St James (Indy 500) was there in a FF being taught by a group from Ford Racing. My friend was black flagged for drag racing her down the main strait, after we were told to stay away from her. I followed her in my 68 DP Triumph, and she upped the speed entering wagon bend and I found myself entering the woods on the outside of the tack backwards, going about 50 ft in. Not fun.

I agree the chute takes some spheres to stay on the gas and let the car drift out to clip the curb on the right. Bill Scott (former racer) said to just let the car drift to the left and take that sharp left on the inside, just like you did. My best part was turns 8 & 9, if I got set-up on track right exiting turn 7. I shift to 4th between 8 & 9, and you between 7 & 8 ... a lot faster!

I thought turn 5 was up hill, and off camber?

.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Cool history and I bet SPR will always have a special place in your heart

T5 is that sharp L turn after the chute. T3 is uphill L on camber. Again the cool thing about SPR is most of the turns are on camber and they are FAST but BUMPY/tricky

Years I ago I drove a bone stock R1 (pettit intake and greddy exhaust, victos on stock wheels and hawk blues otherwise BONE stock not even a DP) around spr and ran a 1.26, drove the same car at VIR and ran a 2.16. The FD is no joke even stock

KevinK2

Fritz,

1) As I watched you brake/shift from 5th to 3rd at the familiar turn 1 at Summit Point's big track, you rapidly go 5-4-3.

are you brake shifting?
are you double clutching between each gear?

I recall I was taking it easy on that turn (needed to drive home) so I braked early and when the revs were low just relied on the syncros to get me in 3rd.

2) I recall a TD04 was the stock turbo on the very fast 2.3L Saab 9000 aero. Do you know how your turbo compares with that one? List of TD04's:

saab-tuners.com ][ TD04 turbo FAQ

3) You thought using 275 35 17 tires (vs 40 series) would allow you to lower the car 1". That tire is 1/2" smaller in radius. So I guess you bolt them on and you are down 1/2", and then you lower the C/O's for 1/2" more drop at the wheels, since you have 1/2" more radial clearance with the smaller tires.

.

KevinK2

A friend of mine ran a Z28 Camero, lowered and fitted with a Baer Brake upgrade up front, with Performance Friction pads. I ran Porterfield R4's up front. The PF pads caused a fine mosaic of shallow cracks on the rotor surface, and sort of polished it too, like yours. My pads were like sandpaper on the rotors, leaving a shallow phonographic finish. Looks like there are at least two methods of creating friction.