FD track prep
#1
FD track prep
Hi guys,
I am planning to attend SCCA drivers school this spring (late april), and starting to get the car ready. Starting with a mostly stock FD with small single and a few other mods. I am not intending to be competitive, but I want to do various track days and I think the SCCA double school is the quickest and most cost effective way to get licensed and up to speed.
My plan for safety setup is as follows:
Full cage to SCCA/NASA spec.
Fuel cell in stock location
seats/harnesses and get rid of airbags
as for performance:
Eibach pro-kit with whatever adjustable shocks I get cheap
already have ss brake lines, ebc yellows, good fluid
need to do a rear end bushing job
I will be running 15psi (350 whp or so)
Already have an upgraded radiator, will probably add upgraded oil coolers
Am I missing anything drastic as far as safety/reliability mods I need to take care of? I still drive this car to work when it is nice out, so I am not doing any weight reduction and keeping with minimal mods to make the car safe, predictable, and fun.
Also, I am roughly following the SCCA STO rules for mods, however I am not planning on doing any racing this year, is there another NASA or SCCA spec that I should be referencing? I would like to leave myself open to run a few events next year if I feel like it.
Thanks
Pat
I am planning to attend SCCA drivers school this spring (late april), and starting to get the car ready. Starting with a mostly stock FD with small single and a few other mods. I am not intending to be competitive, but I want to do various track days and I think the SCCA double school is the quickest and most cost effective way to get licensed and up to speed.
My plan for safety setup is as follows:
Full cage to SCCA/NASA spec.
Fuel cell in stock location
seats/harnesses and get rid of airbags
as for performance:
Eibach pro-kit with whatever adjustable shocks I get cheap
already have ss brake lines, ebc yellows, good fluid
need to do a rear end bushing job
I will be running 15psi (350 whp or so)
Already have an upgraded radiator, will probably add upgraded oil coolers
Am I missing anything drastic as far as safety/reliability mods I need to take care of? I still drive this car to work when it is nice out, so I am not doing any weight reduction and keeping with minimal mods to make the car safe, predictable, and fun.
Also, I am roughly following the SCCA STO rules for mods, however I am not planning on doing any racing this year, is there another NASA or SCCA spec that I should be referencing? I would like to leave myself open to run a few events next year if I feel like it.
Thanks
Pat
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
Hey Pat,
I'd look at dealing with heat. (I know I say that to everyone...) I'd recommend installing an aftermarket water temp gauge and sensor. Duct your radiator to the nose as best you can and lastly try to get some air to your front brakes.
Try to keep everything in the car simple...simple is always better in a race car!
drive fast, have fun, be safe...
Guy
I'd look at dealing with heat. (I know I say that to everyone...) I'd recommend installing an aftermarket water temp gauge and sensor. Duct your radiator to the nose as best you can and lastly try to get some air to your front brakes.
Try to keep everything in the car simple...simple is always better in a race car!
drive fast, have fun, be safe...
Guy
#4
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Join Date: Mar 2001
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if the car has never been out before, AND its a school, i'd lower the boost and concentrate on driving and keeping the car together.
if you're not racing, what are you there to do?
if you're not racing, what are you there to do?
#6
Moderator
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#7
Im a tall midget.
iTrader: (28)
Fresh brake fluid (I use ATE Super Blue) before going out on track is a good idea. I've had great results just running Hawk HP+ pads and ATE brake fluid at HPDE's running within the intermediate/high intermediate run group. My brakes aren't ducted yet but the only time I've experienced brake fade was when I didnt bed my new pads in. Make sure you follow the bed-in procedure for your pads or you'll risk pooping a little: http://youtu.be/ez01SH843MA
Get a water temp and oil temp gauge to keep an eye on things. As mentioned above, try to duct your radiator as best as possible. You should be good with the stock oil coolers, assuming theyre properly ducted, since you're a beginner and won't be driving the car as hard. I'm running a 25 row Setrab cooler on the passenger side and a stock cooler on the drivers side with very good results (my FD is a touring).
Refreshing your suspension bushings is a good idea but if you're short on funds, try to do the diff bushings and pillow ***** first. A good alignment and stickier tires will work wonders on the track
Keep a fire extinguisher within reach and keep the shiny side up
Get a water temp and oil temp gauge to keep an eye on things. As mentioned above, try to duct your radiator as best as possible. You should be good with the stock oil coolers, assuming theyre properly ducted, since you're a beginner and won't be driving the car as hard. I'm running a 25 row Setrab cooler on the passenger side and a stock cooler on the drivers side with very good results (my FD is a touring).
Refreshing your suspension bushings is a good idea but if you're short on funds, try to do the diff bushings and pillow ***** first. A good alignment and stickier tires will work wonders on the track
Keep a fire extinguisher within reach and keep the shiny side up
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#8
I wouldn't bother with doing a fuel cell unless you want the added cost of replacing the bladder every few years.
Also, if you just want a track day... do a track day... NASA HPDE or SCCA PDX or numerous other organizations... no need to go to the expense of the cage and school and everything else if you just want to go drive fast on track...
Also, if you just want a track day... do a track day... NASA HPDE or SCCA PDX or numerous other organizations... no need to go to the expense of the cage and school and everything else if you just want to go drive fast on track...
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