FB for CSP, manual steering box, or de-powered power box?
01-07-09, 06:06 AM
#26
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Yeah, I'm actually thinking of working with the Watts setup (adding heims/bearings). Still have to figure out what to do about the upper links.
Jason
Jason
01-07-09, 03:48 PM
#27
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You know, thinking about this, for autocrossing if I had the choice between manual steering or power steering I'd probably take the weight penalty and go with power. The wieght wouldn't affect you much for autx, nor would the power drain, but the increased steering response would be invaluable.
One of the things I have the toughest time with are extremely tight sections where you end up having to go hand over hand to get the wheels pointed in the proper direction....
One of the things I have the toughest time with are extremely tight sections where you end up having to go hand over hand to get the wheels pointed in the proper direction....
01-07-09, 05:30 PM
#28
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You know, thinking about this, for autocrossing if I had the choice between manual steering or power steering I'd probably take the weight penalty and go with power. The wieght wouldn't affect you much for autx, nor would the power drain, but the increased steering response would be invaluable.
One of the things I have the toughest time with are extremely tight sections where you end up having to go hand over hand to get the wheels pointed in the proper direction....
One of the things I have the toughest time with are extremely tight sections where you end up having to go hand over hand to get the wheels pointed in the proper direction....
Well, I ordered a brand new steering box (manual) through Mazda motorsports. Should be slop free. Gonna install the smallest steering wheel I can find to help with the steering. The PS stuff is pretty heavy, and I'd personally jsut rather be rid of it.
Jason
01-07-09, 06:10 PM
#29
-Vincent.
01-08-09, 04:56 PM
#31
Old [Sch|F]ool
Not if you cut into the floor, which you have to do if you want a straight link and maximum suspension travel.
The last one I did required a tower that extended about 4" above the rear "deck", and obviously the driveshaft hump behind the floro crossmember had to be cut out.
The last one I did required a tower that extended about 4" above the rear "deck", and obviously the driveshaft hump behind the floro crossmember had to be cut out.
01-09-09, 07:59 PM
#32
Not if you cut into the floor, which you have to do if you want a straight link and maximum suspension travel.
The last one I did required a tower that extended about 4" above the rear "deck", and obviously the driveshaft hump behind the floro crossmember had to be cut out.
The last one I did required a tower that extended about 4" above the rear "deck", and obviously the driveshaft hump behind the floro crossmember had to be cut out.
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