my car is 13B PP road race car. never have issue at water. stay at 180F all the time even at 100F weather, but not my oil temp

current set up is MFR drive sump plate with two FC stock oil coler weld together. now i cant not cool car below 200F like i was plan for, some thing like better ducting help for few lap but
the temp will still climb up.

mabe next time witll place the cooler in more foward location to get better airflow

 

Old location



Possible new location



Possible new location

 

Do you have the bypass removed from the coolers?

 

I could be mistaken, but aren't oil Temps normally around 20 above water temps. So if you're running 180 water, 200 oil would be in line. Also believe 200 oil temps on the track isn't that bad, esp in 100 ambient. However if you want to lower that, you need to increase heat transfer. Bigger cooler, more oil flow through the cooler, and more air flow across the cooler. The closer your target fluid temps are to the medium you are exchanging heat to (i.e., not having much of a heat sink), the harder it gets to exchang the heat (almost gets exponentially harder).

 

Yes I did

 

the stock coolers don't have very many rows so they probably won't cool as well as a nice aftermarket unit. There isn't as much surface area touching the fins.

Setrab Engine Oil Coolers | susa

I would go with a 50-948-7612 (16"x14.7")

I've also never seen anyone successfully keep their oil temp below 200*F like mazdaspeed recommends. I wouldn't worry until you get closer to 240*F

 

My ITS car runs normally at 195/220 and is quite happy. (Note, oil manufacturers recommend 220 as the ideal oil temp.) I run two stock coolers in parallel that are very well ducted. In addition, I run a very large Griffin radiator. I really don't think you can get oil temps to 200 without a cooler the size of the front of the car.

 

Did u experience oil pressure drop ?
Mine will drop about 5psi if my oil reach 220

 

Running AmsOil racing oil, no pressure drip all the way to 245 degrees!!!

 

Engine oil are much hotter inside , so get da lower as much as possible~

I am using redline 50wt engine oil

 

Lighter viscosity oils gain and expel heat better than heavier oils. I run 10W30.

 

I run a 12A bridgeport in SCCA GT3. My car has a front mounted fluidyne oil cooler (30617) and a double pass radiator with a heat exchanger like this one from PRC. My oil temps have dropped 20F compared to running the front mounted oil cooler alone. Other Mazda rotary folks run external oil-water heat exchanges like these from mocal. I know of a very successful 12A in E production that runs a radiator with a heat exchanger and no additional external oil coolers. Custom radiators from C&R and Ron Davis can be made with heat exchangers as well.

Guy

 

Thanks for reply
I was think to run this alone , but guess I will run with my air oil cooler together

 

This weekend is extreme hot
With 100F weather and very humidity

The oil still in high side about 225F
As water still stay below 190F

Experience slightly lose of oil psi (89psi wot) with
MFR drive sump

I fail to finish the race due to fail rear wheel bearings

Time to upgrade my oil cooling and wheel bearing all together~