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3rd gen brakes - good enough?

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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 12:13 AM
  #26  
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Stephen,

Yes, they'll fit a '93-'95 Rx7...The '99 Mazda Rx7 RS J-spec pads are available from Mazdaspeed Motorsports Development. Go to www.mazdamotorsports.com or phone them at 1-800-435-2508, you'll talk to Brian or Tim...
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 03:46 PM
  #27  
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Originally posted by SleepR1
Check this product out...it does work...but you can't screw the cap adapter on too tight, or else the cap will LEAK!

Pump the vessel up to 10 psi, and you can bleed all four wheels, and the clutchline.

The downside is you need lots of fluid, and it gets messy...have plenty of rags ready to catch fluid from the reservoir!

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

The MX-6 application will work for the FD Rx7...that's what I ordered...
I just got one of these last week with some ATE Super Blue fluid and it is now my bleeding method of choice. I did the brakes on my daily driver yesterday and it worked great. I did make a mess and dump brake fluid all over the place, but I think I could do it again without the mess. Follow the instructions carefully (hook it up and pressurize before adding fluid to test) and don't go over your "hook-up test" pressure. 5 psi was enough to bleed the brakes (though I did have to pump the pedal once to get the flow going on the front calipers), and the blue fluid made it very easy to see when the new stuff was getting through. I used 1L to replace all the fluid, even after dumping half of it on the ground. This is better than Speedbleeders.

-Max
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 05:59 PM
  #28  
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Max,

I'm glad someone else has made a mess with this product...I thought I was just a klutz
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 07:24 AM
  #29  
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I've used the Hawk blues, pwr slot rotors, braided lines, and Motul......seemed to do the trick at VIR...
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 08:13 AM
  #30  
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I made a pressure bleeding device with an extra master cylinder cap and a tire valve. Open the bleeder and slowly pump the master cylinder up with a small pump, like a bike pump (the kind with a short hose on the end). Works great and costs next to nothing.

Speedbleeders work great in theory, but in practice air can get sucked back in past the threads.
I suppose one could try wrapping Teflon tape around the threads, but haven't tried that so I can't comment on it.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 09:18 PM
  #31  
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Food for thought......For only $1495 you can get the Willwood front brake kit. Fits with stock wheels. Very nice.
direct bolt-on kit comes complete with 13” vented & slotted rotors; rigid 6-piston billet aluminum calipers; differential bore deep-cup stainless steel pistons for even pad wear and improved heat resistance; anti-rattle clips to eliminate pad chatter; brake pads specific for your application; stainless steel brake lines; and Motul brake fluid.

This kit weighs-in at 24lbs/side for the entire assembly including pads (this is the same weight as the OEM brakes!). This kit even compares favorably in weight to our ultra-high performance offerings.

These brakes provide extremely good braking force and a very firm pedal utilizing the OEM master cylinder.

For serious track use you can get the Thermlock piston option (addtional $350.00) which effectively reduces the amount of heat transferred to the calipers and fluid by the use of 2-layer insulated aluminum/stainless steel pistons and additional heat shielding of the calipers.

Jason can get these at the RX7 store......
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 09:29 PM
  #32  
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Those sound pretty sweet!
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 10:39 PM
  #33  
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I used some Hawk Black pads on my 2nd gen T2, and it ate up my rotors pretty good, and the pads got torn up pretty quickly after 2+ hours of use. Although, not a hint of brake fade was noticed under 10/10 hard driving. Expect to change your pads/rotors alot with stock, although you can get the stuff fairly cheaply. Big brake kits cost alot, but last longer & more efficient, but what is your time worth?

(2nd gen T2 & 3rd gen brakes up front are ecentially the same)

Thanks Max.

Most importantly is do not let the master cylinder get low with fluid while draining and suck in air.

Hahahaha. Seen it done. LOL. It is classic when someone overflows the brake fluid reservoir (but really, they are low on brake fluid because the brakes are completly worn out) and then pushes the caliper pistons back and watch all the brake fluid pour out of the brake fluid reservoir and make a big mess in the engine bay. lol.
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Old Jul 16, 2002 | 03:12 PM
  #34  
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Hawk Blacks...excellent medium torque track pad, but DO NOT USE THEM ON THE PUBLIC ROADs. They will eat your rotors in no time, as the Hawk Blacks really need to come up to temp to be effective. I agree that they're hard on rotors, and cause stress cracks...

So far I haven't had a problem with Porterfield R4Es...they've been outstanding and have been very easy on my '99 Type RS rotors...
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