Are there any benifits to going with stiffer shocks when drag racing? I know its better for road racing but what about Drag. Same question for lowering/ stiffer springs.

 

My knowledge of drag racing is limited, but I couldn't resist sharing what I do know in the new race car tech forum!

You actually want a soft set-up in the rear, it will help the car launch better. Can an experienced drag racer back me up on this?

 

yeah i would really like to know. anyone?

 

yes you would want a slightly softer set up in the rear for weight transfer.

unless you driving your honda then you want to replace the shocks with steel rods to keep the weight forward.

also if your pulling hard enough you will want differnt shock rates on the front to keep the nose level as well. but 13b's dont have that much torque normally.

 

Stiffer is worse in the rear!

The only time it does any good is if you've lowered your car, which screws up the suspension geometry majorly and throws it into pro-squat mode, in which case you need to basically lock out the suspension because letting it move will be counterproductive. This is mainly an FC thing, not sure about FDs. However, for those of use who care more about performance than percieved looks, and therefore haven't lowered the car...

I was thinking of putting limiter straps on the front suspension. I figured, my car couldn't possibly lift the front tires off the ground, so when the front suspension topped out it would "clamp" the rear tires down harder. Or, if it DID pick the fronts off of the ground, hey, 100% weight transfer! (And mini-wheelstands are pretty cool too! ) I never got the chance to try this out, unfortunately.

 

^

 

Yea if you want to drag and road race I guess you'd need an adjustable suspension.

I use Eibach progressive rate springs and they seem to do ok for drag racing, they will let the car squat and transfer weight to the rear. The only prob is I dont know how good they will be for road racing.....I'll be finding out in the next few months though haha

STEPHEN

 

I drag race a lot. My set up seems to work very well. I have the M2 competition trailing arms and toe link set. This will improve your contact in the rear a lot. I also use the Eibach pro kit springs w/ 5way adjustable Tokico's. In the rear I put it on the softest setting. The front I leave on 3, which is right in the middle. I usually cut mid 1.5 60's.....

 

1.5 60's??????????

Good farking lord..

PaulC

 

a 1.5 60' is impressive. Any Dyno numbers? or plots

 

I have not had the best of luck with dyno's in the past, so my friend Demetrios (Reactive Racing) tuned my car on the street with his Motec wideband. I must say its never ran better. On the street I only run around 13lbs of boost.
After I get 850cc primaries, I'll tune with race gas at 25lbs of boost. Should be well into the 500+rwhp range.

 

What rpm do you launch at?

 

7000rpm and sidestep the clutch on Mickey Thompson ET streets.....

 

Seriously, what rpms do you launch at...??

 

LOL....Im serious. When I go with my friend Demetrios to the track, he launches at 8000rpms. No ****! He races in the quick class at the IDRC races.

 

Geezus, that can't be good for the driveline and half-shafts

 

My 4000-rpm launches are "granny starts" in comparison to yours, Ernie...

 

Kaaz diff and chrome axels are all you need!

 

How do you like the Kazz diff for daily driving? I've heard it isnt smooth thru tight turns, maybe they have different models though I dont know. Does it have any "noise" like some aftermarket rears do?

If you dont mind me asking, how much was the kAZZ diff and chrome axels? How much hp are they good for before they snap?

Thanks,
STEPHEN

 

Some people have mixed results with the Kaaz. I've been lucky. When I had it first installed, it would chatter, but when I changed the diff fluid to the Kaaz fluid, it made all the difference. Now its like stock. The Kaaz ran me about $800 and the axels were about the same.
You'll need the axels if your pushing over 400rwhp.