I have an '84 GSL-SE, and have come to the conclusion that I want to go faster on road racing courses, which will necessitate having the car's rear end stick better. I contacted ISC about their "3-link" rear setup with Panhard rod, which requires some welding to attach. Any experience with this or other modifications to enhance 1st Gen rear adhesion?

 

Those items are worth every penny!

 

Hey Buttlips! Do you have a tri-link on your 7? Any chance you're making the trip to Gateway this weekend?

 

Speed,

I'm not heading out this weekend since there's no National race. I'll be there in May for the first Regional/national weekend.

Yes, I do have a Tri-Link. Mine is a modified version of the one Jim Susko sells at G-Force.

 

buttlips: how smooth is your seven with the trilink and panhard bar.. i have both in mine, and it feels like it is binding (abrupt, as if it was almost wheel hop) when i am at low rpm's..
soon i am going to put a fatter panhard bar on, and change the third link out to one that mouts ontop of the drive shaft (into the storage bin area). but i am still woundering if there is something messed up with my setup.

 

buttlips: How do the ISC and G-Force trilink setups compare? How do I contact G-Force? Are there other setups I should consider? (I'm only aware of the makers of racewear by the same name)

 

http://www.gforceengineering.net/products.htm

 

Riff,

Mine is really smooth. Look under your car to see if there is evidence of any parts hitting the underside of the tub. Otherwise, I would re-evaluate your springs and shocks for the source of your wheel hop. The Tri-Link should really free up the movement in the rear end and prevent binding.

Elwood,

The main difference between the two is how they mount. The ISC setup mounts to a frame rail and requires welding, whereas the G-Force version mounts in transmission tunnel and can be bolted in. The geometry on the two is basically identical.

I would offer this pice of advice with the G-forcemodel. If you're doing any really hard driving (i.e. road racing with slicks on the car) it's a good idea to beef up your transmission tunnel. I ripped mine out of the car, and I know many other racers who have done the same.

 

I personally would be leery of bolting any suspension pickup points in.

Hell I'm leery of having a big ol' bend in the middle of the link. Which is why if I go 3-link it will be custom done. Screw the floorpan, I'll cut it, I want *strength*.

 

I have G-forces tri-link but I autocross.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/7heaven

 

It's plenty strong. Yes its a compromise cause of the rules, but quite adequate. Never heard of one breaking yet. Mines rock solid.

 

Yeah but you are bound by rules.

I still have dreams of 400 or so HP from a light pressure turbo bridge/peripheral motor. Having that much power might make me consider upgrading the suspension.

 

I would love to run a straight bar into the car, but that would move me from EP to GT-3.

RX-7 Carl: I never had a problem when I was running in ITA, but since moving to EP, I've broken a couple of them. That's why we modified ours. We use the same geometry as Susko's, but our bar is much beefier.

 

is yours the type that mounts over the drive shaft (cutting into the storage bins)? i am thinking about ditching the third link that i have and moving over to something like that... i am not building my car to meet any class regulations, so i am not worried about that.

 

No, mine does not cut into the car at all. If you have no class rules to car about, using a straight link that cuts through where the bins are located is the way to go. It's stronger than the ones we use which have a bend in them.