1st Gen Rear Suspension
I have an '84 GSL-SE, and have come to the conclusion that I want to go faster on road racing courses, which will necessitate having the car's rear end stick better. I contacted ISC about their "3-link" rear setup with Panhard rod, which requires some welding to attach. Any experience with this or other modifications to enhance 1st Gen rear adhesion?
|
Those items are worth every penny!
|
Hey Buttlips! Do you have a tri-link on your 7? Any chance you're making the trip to Gateway this weekend?
|
Speed,
I'm not heading out this weekend since there's no National race. I'll be there in May for the first Regional/national weekend. Yes, I do have a Tri-Link. Mine is a modified version of the one Jim Susko sells at G-Force. |
buttlips: how smooth is your seven with the trilink and panhard bar.. i have both in mine, and it feels like it is binding (abrupt, as if it was almost wheel hop) when i am at low rpm's..
soon i am going to put a fatter panhard bar on, and change the third link out to one that mouts ontop of the drive shaft (into the storage bin area). but i am still woundering if there is something messed up with my setup. |
buttlips: How do the ISC and G-Force trilink setups compare? How do I contact G-Force? Are there other setups I should consider? (I'm only aware of the makers of racewear by the same name)
|
|
Riff,
Mine is really smooth. Look under your car to see if there is evidence of any parts hitting the underside of the tub. Otherwise, I would re-evaluate your springs and shocks for the source of your wheel hop. The Tri-Link should really free up the movement in the rear end and prevent binding. Elwood, The main difference between the two is how they mount. The ISC setup mounts to a frame rail and requires welding, whereas the G-Force version mounts in transmission tunnel and can be bolted in. The geometry on the two is basically identical. I would offer this pice of advice with the G-forcemodel. If you're doing any really hard driving (i.e. road racing with slicks on the car) it's a good idea to beef up your transmission tunnel. I ripped mine out of the car, and I know many other racers who have done the same. |
I personally would be leery of bolting any suspension pickup points in.
Hell I'm leery of having a big ol' bend in the middle of the link. :) Which is why if I go 3-link it will be custom done. Screw the floorpan, I'll cut it, I want *strength*. |
|
Originally posted by peejay I personally would be leery of bolting any suspension pickup points in. Hell I'm leery of having a big ol' bend in the middle of the link. :) Which is why if I go 3-link it will be custom done. Screw the floorpan, I'll cut it, I want *strength*. |
Yeah but you are bound by rules.
I still have dreams of 400 or so HP from a light pressure turbo bridge/peripheral motor. Having that much power might make me consider upgrading the suspension. :D |
I would love to run a straight bar into the car, but that would move me from EP to GT-3.
RX-7 Carl: I never had a problem when I was running in ITA, but since moving to EP, I've broken a couple of them. That's why we modified ours. We use the same geometry as Susko's, but our bar is much beefier. |
is yours the type that mounts over the drive shaft (cutting into the storage bins)? i am thinking about ditching the third link that i have and moving over to something like that... i am not building my car to meet any class regulations, so i am not worried about that.
|
No, mine does not cut into the car at all. If you have no class rules to car about, using a straight link that cuts through where the bins are located is the way to go. It's stronger than the ones we use which have a bend in them.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:32 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands