ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

This weekend I removed the KD rotary anti-det mod. Pretty simple mod to undo. I could go on for a bit about this mod, but I'll just leave that alone. After installing a traling plug coil pack, installing 2 more plugs, and 2 more plug wires I was just about ready to go. I had to change my ignition and fuel to adjust to the new ignition. With the help of Chuck, I got my ignition map fixed. I am running the base map 5.0 ignition on the leading, but I changed the TR split quite a bit. I also adjusted the basemap for fuel.

Yesterday I let the car re-learn the idle again, and took it for a short drive to the gas station and back home. Everything was running good. For some that have read my recent threads I have been overly parannoid about noises coming from my engine bay area while under boost. I don't know if the sounds I heard were the J&S Safeguard firing off, knock, REALLY bad knock, or what....but I can say I didn't hear a peep come from the engine this morning when I did a quick boost run. I've also noticed that idle is smoother, response is better, and it hasn't died on me yet.

I decided this morning I would drive it to work and "map watch" the AFR's the whole trip to work to see what I can change on idle/cruise/decel/boost AFR's. I can see areas where there is some work to do, but overall I am much happier with the car. I feel like I can finally start to enjoy driving it. It would be really helpful to get the car on a dyno for a real tuning session so I can not worry about being pulled over.

Attached is my map if anyone wants to look at it.

Here is my map watch:

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Try setting decimal places to 2 and "hold off" to 1 or 2 when you are using map watch for AFR's. Also see what shows up when you change "Avg" to "Max" . I also like to use a chart to look at AFR's. Map watch is useful but it's only one tool at your disposal.

For trailing, I like to start with 12 or 15 split and then I only reduce split when I'm testing timing on a dyno. And with any timing adjustments it's all about figuring out the amount of power/torque gained versus the amount of additional timing--the benefit gained versus the amount of increased risk.

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

Ok. Didn't bother to think about 2 decimal places since my display gauge only shows 1. Makes sense to have better accuracy with 2.

I think I'll leave the timing as-is until I understand the car more. I'm not really trying to tune myself with max performance goals. Just trying to keep it safe until I can go to Banzai or a Steve Jan event.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

As we all know, as the engine revs quickly; the PFC will sometime use multiple cells for fuel and timing instead of only using one cell.

HOLDOFF is used by the DL to ignore some cell recorded values if the PFC has not been using that cell for a certain period of time. The higher the hold off, the more accurate the reading is for a cell, but cell used count will decrease. Normal recommended value is 10 to 20 ms.

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

As arghx mentioned on the hold off for val of 1 or 2, is 1 eq to 10 ms, and 2 eq to 20 ms? I'll be able to drive the car to work tomorrow so I can log some more data.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

No it is not true. You can enter 1, 2, 10, or 20.

1 is 1 not equal to 10.

On the INNOVATE site where they tell you how to hook up to a PFC-DL:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...c_tutorial.php

they recommend 20ms.

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

Here's data from this morning drive. When I had it set to 20, a lot more data was missing.

$lacker

iTrader: (9)

It's missing because it's not necessarily dependable - that's the point of excluding it

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

So if you exclude it, what readings are you supposed to use to tune from? Guess?

I'm all for having accurate data, but if you exclude too much how are you going to know if it is safe to begin with? If it's too lean and you have to take X amount of attempts to get good data, damage is already done.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

It almost sounds like you have not throughly read/studied the tuning notes!
Why do I say this:
(1) logging less functions results in more reading of what you want. Thus do not log what is not needed. If you are unsure, the first time log either basic+ AUX+map ref or advance+AUX so you can look at AFRs and max knock.
If knock is good, then only log AUX+map ref.
(2) If you think you are lean or not sure, add extra fuel on either the INJECTOR MAP or Settings 2 INJ ADJUST map before AFR logging.
(3) Having at lease 10 readings per cell is good.
(4) I do initial power runs in 3rd gear to be sure my AFRS are ballpark, then go
4th gear for obtaining more reading per cell.
(5) idle and cruise does not matter if you are lean because it will not hurt the engine.
(6) You have to edit most logs before looking at them with map watch, especially for cruise where you might use cells for both cruise and
de-acceleration.

ALL of this and more are in the notes.

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

Been a little busy with 60 hrs a week of work and class 2 nights a week. I've read it twice though!