Boostn7

Just finished the complete non-seq mod over the weekend. Ported the manifold, turbine housings and got rid of all those vaccum hoses/solenoids.

One problem: controlling boost.

I run the PowerFC and I'm only getting 6-7psi regardless of ECU settings. Sequential mode is turned off.
hoses connected as stock:
pressure ->restricter->wg port1->wg port2-->top port on solenoid->bottom port vents to atmosphere.

How do I go about controlling boost with PowerFC?
I may need to go smaller on the restricter.

Thanks,
John D.
10.80 @ 130mph
11.1 @ 131 mph-drag radials
88 10th Ann Ed T-II
94 white FD

spyfish007

You might want to hook up the home debot bleeder valve. You seem to have everything hooked up correctly. And you are sure you don't have any boost leaks?

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

For NON-SEQ, you also have to use the pre-control solenoid in place of the WG solenoid to control the WG.

The easiest way to do this, switch the PC and WG solenoid electrical connectors.

spyfish007

Actually chuck I found they both work when I did this ...??

Boostn7

Since everything I tried did not raise my boost I pulled the hose off the wastegate and carefully boosted it !!!
WTF !!!! boost remains below 7psi in 3rd gear.....
need to put the car on the lift and check the WG actuator/rod.

So far with 7psi by 3500rpm car feels good with non-sequential.....can't wait 'till I raise teh boost -if I figure out what's going on...

Thanks,
John D.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Carson,

You have now given me something else to test out.
Now I wonder if they have different cyclic rate.

Actually this was listed as one of my summer test projects. Non-seq control using both the PFC with the Hallman spring loaded boost control valve.

HA HA.

Boostn7

Tonight I did check the WG rod and also for leaks and everything looked good.
I decided on removing the inlet pipe from the rear turbo and started the car.....compressor wheel spun a bit then it totally STOPPED ! while the car was idling. when motor was revved the compressor wheel would spin then stop againg at idle

I'm assuming the turbo is BAD ! since I removed the big flapper door from manifold giving it a direct flow of exhaust.

I hate to think about removing them again

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Do one more test, "carefully".

Remove the pressure side hose from the WG actuator so that the WG will definitely stay closed. Then make a slow rev boost run in 4th to test boost pressure.

Boostn7

Unfortunately I also did that....both ports on the wg are for the same chamber and results were the same.
While on lift I would put load in 4th to 7psi and the actuator rod would not even budge.

...and with the compressor wheel stopping at idle it's also not a good sign. The one in the front will continue to spin till the engine stops.

Thanks

billyrohm

I was having the same problem but I would only pull 5 or 6 psi. Turned out the resonation material of my midpipe came apart clogged my muffler. Shitty. Still waiting for my new muffler to arrive and the fd is parked.

One thing that you could do to check your turbos is to put the car on a dyno or on jack stands load it up to pull some boost (slowly apply the ebrake on jackstands) and check the turbo suctions make sure that they are both sucking. If one turbo is bad air will probably come out of that turbos inlet.

Boostn7

It turned out that the only hose not checked was the culprit ! Hose going to the intercooler inlet(bottom) was split.

Now I have Boost !!

Thanks everyone.

John D