I just picked up the XD-1 This thing is pretty sweet. It looks like you can change the outside limits of the LEDs to whatever you want. Example: the left most LED could read 10.0:1 or you can change lower or higher depending on your car and needs, same goes with the right most one. I have also noticed that you can change the color pf the LEDs to your needs.

I’ll probably make my green section right around 11.0:1 (boost) and the read lean section around 15.0:1 (cruise). Then I can change them back for my NA 13b. It looks to be very adjustable.

I’ll be installing it this weekend and I’ll let you know how it goes.

Joe

 

Yep, I was very impressed with the gauge. It's about as smart and customizable of a gauge as I've seen. Just be sure when you're programming, you have the end plug on the correct wire, and then when you install it, the plug has to be on the other one. I didn't catch that from the instructions, and the gauge wouldn't work when I first started driving around.....

 

Thanks, I'll watch out for that.

Joe

 

But if we buy wbO2, were are we going to put it, and how we use it with PFC commander? It will replace the stock nbO2 sensor?

 

You might be able to get away with putting it in the stock location, but most people weld a bung somewhere farther down their downpipe. It won't work with the commander, and it won't replace the stock O2 sensor unless you do additional wiring. Most people just log the WB signal using the datalogit software for the PFC. Or you can buy additional equipment from the Innovate guys which lets you log directly to the wideband box.

 

Nobody answered my question before - does the PFC run better, worse, or the same without an O2 sensor reading? And how do you turn off the O2 sensor control for the PFC, do you need a datalogit?

 

There's not a clear answer to that question. If you don't have a datalogit, you will probably run worse without an O2 sensor. On the flipside, virtually everyone with a datalogit has disabled the O2 sensor. You just need to tune a few cells then to get the AFR where you want it. The main functions of the O2 sensor is to lean out idle and cruise a little further. Won't hurt anything to turn it off in the third menu off the main menu of the PFC. Can't remember exactly what the name of all the menus are in there but it's in the manual or you can poke around in there until you see "O2 feedback". You'll probably just see a little bit of a gas mileage decrease, but it definitely won't hurt the engine.

 

Thanks, I'll probably just hook up the analog output of the LC-1 to the PFC to keep the O2 signal.

 

just out of curiousity....where are u guys running the cables from the wb02 sensor back inside? running it back up to the engine bay and through the firewall with the rest of the cables, through the tranny hole, or something else?

 

I personally used the tranny hole. Though it's not ideal since it allows some gases to creep inside. I really need to cut a notch in the plastic plate, I suppose and then seal around it. Also, if you go that route, watch out for the drive shaft. I inadvertantly ate up a sensor wire by having it rubbing against the drive shaft...

Other than that, that's a really convenient place if you weld your bung directly below in the midpipe/cat...

 

I don’t believe this to be correct, the LM1 has 2 fully programmable outputs, 1 can be used for a 0-5v reference for wide band, while the other can be programmed for a 0-2v reference which mimics the stock O2 sensor simultaneously.

The point is moot though as most people do find the O2 feedback to be problematic.

 

if using the datalogit software to log AFRs, then really the logging feature of the LM-1 is kinda useless. so the LC-1 would be more appropriate if the LM-1 size bothers you, correct?

 

Correct. Also the LC-1 has the differential grounds that makes the outputs more accurate for datalogging with datalogit than the LM-1.

 

Other than the size, the LM1 is great. I have used it to log AFRs of a few different applications. Plus some other applications don’t have a 0-5v WB input let alone an ecu.
The LC1 is all you need if you don’t need or plan on using it for any thing else.

It would be nice if they could condense the LM1 down to a more logical size after all th PCB is actually not that large and it could probably be double layered and still be ¼ as thick as the existing unit is.

 

Does anyone have the LC-1 and the XD-1 hooked up and running with the datalogit yet?
Thanks to AgentSpeed for the info awhile back for the LM-1 hookup...but now would like to see how (step by step) the new LC-1 and XD-1 need to be hooked up to the datalogit, and any configurations needed.

 

You can try asking on the innovate forums, people are pretty responsive there.

 

Well actually I need to know which wires to hook up to the datalogit and settingd that need to be enabled on the FC Edit software.

 

I have a good idea of where the wires go but would like some clarification:
- Red goes to the 12v switched supply (turns on after car is running)
- Blue is the heater ground (basically make sure its a good chassis ground)
- White not sure
- yellow goes to the AN1?
- Brown, I assume this isnt used if your just hooking it up to the datalogit
- Green goes to AN2?
- Black is the calibration wire.....but doesnt need to be hooked up if your using the XD-1 guage....cause you can just use the button on the guage to calibrate...correct?

Please someone help me figure this stuff out.....basically my setup is the LC-1 (wideband controller), XD-1 (Innovate Wideband guage), and datalogit.

 

- Red goes to a 12v ignition switched source. (I pulled it from the cigarette lighter fuse in the fuse box by the driver foot rest )
- Blue is the heater ground. (basically make sure its a good chassis ground)
- White is system ground connect it to AN2. (New version of LC-1 manual http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf talks about 7 wire LC-1.)
- yellow goes to nothing or the wire going to the narrow band O2 sensor. This by default is the simulated narrow band output.
- Brown goes to AN2. (Setup Datalogit menu Setup->Auxiliary with 0V=7.35, 5V=22.39 and Delta AN1-AN2 checked)
- Green doesn't exist.
- Mettalic goes to AN2 with a 6 wire LC-1 or nothing.
- Black is the calibration wire and is connected to nothing or optional momentary switch.

I however can't verify the outputs because my early 6 wire LC-1 outputs didn't work (not an uncommon problem). I had to send mine in for repair .

 

so the white and the brown wire goto AN2?
Then what goes to AN1? If anything?
Also the green wire does exist on my 7 wire version......
Does anyone have the 7 wire version hooked up and running? If so which wires go where, obvisouly the red and blue are spoken for now. Only the confusing remaining 5 are left

 

Woops. A couple of little mistakes and it changes everything . I hope I fixed it...

- Red goes to a 12v ignition switched and fused source. (I pulled it from the cigarette lighter fuse in the fuse box by the driver foot rest )
- Blue is the heater ground. (basically make sure its a good chassis ground)
- White goes to nothing or could be tied in with the green wire.
- Mettalic is system ground. Connect it to AN2 with a 6 wire LC-1.
- Yellow goes to nothing or the wire going to the narrow band O2 sensor. This by default is the simulated narrow band output.
- Brown goes to AN1. (Setup Datalogit menu Setup->Auxiliary with 0V=7.35, 5V=22.39 and Delta AN1-AN2 checked)
- Green goes to AN2 if it exists .
- Black is the calibration wire and is connected to nothing or optional momentary switch.

New version of LC-1 manual with 7 wire LC-1 info...
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/...LC-1_Manual.pdf

 

Thanks Matt, But what exactly does the white wire do (since you can optionally connect it with the green wire into AN2)? Also if I don't hook up the black wire can't I still do free air/heater calibrations with the XD-1 guage button?

 

The manual isn't very clear on the difference between the green and white wire. It looks like they would be the same. You could try datalogging them both and see if there is any difference.

The XD-1 does eliminate the need for hooking up the black wire.

Also be careful about touching any of the wires together or to chassis ground while the LC-1 has power. This could cause a problem like mine (broken outputs) even though I'm pretty sure I didn't do this. It's best to wrap some electrical tape around unused outputs.

 

Hey Matt I saw this in the FAQ link on the Innovate web-site and this might clear up a few things:

Q: Does your meter have an analog output?

A: Yes it does. It has two analog outputs usable for a maximum range of 0.5 to 1.523 Lambda (7.35 to 22.39 AFR). The resolution for the outputs is 10 bits 0-5 Volt (0.00489V steps). The Output Voltage over Lambda curves for each output are freely and independently programmable with the included software. See the LM-1 Manual in the support section of our web-site in section 9.6 'Programming the analog outputs' for information on how to program the outputs. See section 11.1 on how to connect an analog output of the LM-1 to simulate a narrow band sensor. Section A.1 shows the pinout and type of the output connector. As shipped, one output simulates a typical narrow band oxygen sensor, the other one is programmed to show AFR/10 for gasoline on a digital voltmeter (for example AFR of 14.7 outputs 1.47V). These analog outputs, once programmed, can be used to drive a closed-loop EMS, to feed a data logging system, or to drive an external display. Very careful attention has to be paid to grounding. It will not work reliably through the cigarette lighter. Optimally use the same ground that the data logger or ECU uses.

Its seems that they dont recommend the power to be pulled from the cigarette lighter and also they state that "Optimally use the same ground that the data logger or ECU uses." So would this be the ground wire in the ECU harness...if so what wire do they want use to connect it with, white wire (system ground)?

 

Notice they are talking about the LM-1 NOT the LC-1. The LM-1 does NOT have the relative ground setup (Delta AN1-AN2) like the LC-1. With the relative ground, power and chassis ground can be taken from almost anywhere and the outputs will still be accurate. You could even buy a cigarette lighter plug at Rat Shack and wire directly to the LC-1 or hook a 9V battery up to it if you wanted a semi-removable AFR meter. I would NOT connect the white wire to anything. The blue wire should go to the nearest non-painted non-corroded nut and is your chassis ground.