The Bosch data sheet for the LSU4.2 sensor says that its meant to last 160k km (99420 miles). Their accuracy measurements only extend out to 2000 hours on the test bench which should equate to 57400 miles for my driving habits. If I still have my car (yeah right) I'll probably replace mine then.

For 0.56 g/l leaded fuel the sensor should last 13670 miles of constant use.

 

Inside the LM Programmer, at "Analog Out 1", what lambda values/volt ranges need to be entered? I have done the AFR 0-5v:10-20.

My Datalogit hast been reading 0.5-1 AFR off-scale the same LM-1 numeric output values and the Datalogit waveform insufficiently reacts relative to the numeric display.

Thanks

 

Log works will open for me but I can't get the LM Programmer to open. For some reason it says it can't find the device. I'm using a serial to USB converter so I think that is most of my problem now. But I'm in the same boat as mark57, my numbers are logging 0.5-1AFR off - on the high side.

I do appreciate the tip on the box, at least that got me some numbers! Progress is always a plus.

 

You can program it to be whatever you want. You just need the same numbers on the datalogit setup. I arbitrarily chose 0-5V being 10-20 AFR also.

And you're exactly right that the datalogit won't show the same thign as the display. The problem apparently has to do with the grounds. You can try plugging in the ground from the LM-1 into AN2 and checking the delta AN1-AN2 box, but I didn't find that to help much. The better solution was suggested by Chuck, but is fairly involved. You'll need to get a coke bottle and partially fill it with butane, and then stick the O2 sensor in it, so that you can get a steady-state reading. Then tweak your polynomials in the datalogit so that it matches the display. Once you get the right offset to account for the grounding differences, the display should more or less match the logged values.

Agentspeed...definitely sounds like a COM port issue. Make sure nothing else is running (like the datalogit) that would be keeping that port open.

 

Yeah it's a COM port issue. I've tried all three ports and I get the same error. I can only get one port to work with the Log Works. I'll gave to keep screwing with it but it's beer 30 right now, break time!

Thanks for the help!

 

lol, beer 30. Well maybe 31 will be the lucky one...

It's a LONG shot, but one that's easy not to notice is Palm Hotsync software. Sits in the system tray so it's not easily noticible, but it ties up ALL the COM ports (at least on the old version I had).

 

Excuse me for a second,

TailHappy: How far down the down pipe do you have the bosch 02 sensor?

I run mine all the time also and I have burned two out in just under 5000 miles. I'm not sure if it is heat related or just condensation in the down pipe.

The next sensor I get I'm also buying the heat sink for it. I'll also start warming the car up a bit before I kick the LM-1 on, like stated earlier.

I have mine about 2 feet behind my turbo. Maybe a touch further.

Thanks
Joe

 

Just for kicks, I'll tell you about mine...

I've got mine about 4" before the midpipe. I do not have the heat sink either. So far (3K miles) I have no issues. I spliced mine in on the cig lighter wires too so it comes on with the car. Maybe I'm lucky but I haven't had any problems yet.

 

Didn't mean to exclude anyone by calling out TailHappy. Please come one come all, your input is appreciated.

Thanks
Joe

 

Mine is like 5" in front of the midpipe flange...right after the pipe levels off and heads toward the back of the car. It's on the top of the pipe angled about 15 degrees inboard towards the tranny.

 

I figured the more the better.
I just added mine to see how it compared to others. I didn't do any searching or anything when I had mine welded in. Plus the idiots did a horrible welding job but hey it works so far... I guess I was just lucky, that's a first when it comes to this car...lol

 

Sounds like mine is similar to the others. I have mine mounted directly vertical right after where the midpipe has a bend leading to the downpipe. Basically it would be immediately before where the cat would begin, if I had one.

I've been turning my LM-1 on about 10 seconds after starting the car. For a while I just let it turn on with the car. Not sure how many miles I've put on the two sensors, but like I say the other one was fine until the harness got shredded...

Also, I'm not running any heat sinks.

 

damn so i have to take off my newly installed hfc and weld a bong to it. it took me 3 hours to put that in there since my body it is so low and I have to literally crawl inch by inch to get underneath. I guesse I might just bring it to a shop so they can put it up in a lift, weld a bong and install my sensor too instead of me removing it and putting it back again after welding a bong

 

LOL, couldn't help but laugh at "bong"...think you mean "bung"

Anyway, you might try it in the stock o2 sensor position with a heat sink before going to all that trouble. I think some people are running it there without any problems. If you have a LM-1, it'll warn you if the sensor is too hot with an error condition.

 

You like that ha? hehehe. Well some people have posted that they have installed there's in the dp but mess it up due to heat. I think its "sx605p747R1" I don't have a stock exhaust. I have HKS DP and Cat Back plus Petit HFC. There's a bung in the HKS DP do you think that will work? What do you mean by heat sink? heat sink from the turbine so it doesn't heat up the o2 sensor? BUt doesn't the DP have the same temps as the turbine anyway?

 

I'm really not sure if it would work in that position or not. Like I say, I _thought_ I had read about someone using it in a downpipe just fine. But you're pretty much on your own on that one. You could try it there and worst case if it doesn't work you're only out about $50. Hell, that's just a tank of gas these days......

The heat sink is just a piece of aluminum that you screw in on the outside of the pipe to catch air and help keep the sensor cool. I don't know much more about them than that. You can buy them from Innovate or make one yourself. Check out their page for more info on that. www.innovatemotorsports.com

 

Could someone explain to me why a wideband is necessary for tuning? I am kinda new to the tuning scene and I am looking forward to learning all of these things so I can tune the car myself. Also, what is the difference between having just an AFR gauge and a wideband? Right now I have PFC w/ commander and datalogit and am in the market for a wideband, so far.

 

Wideband is completely essential to tuning since it is the only way for you to know what your air-fuel ratios are. A wideband measures AFRs accurately across a wide range of ratios, where the stock O2 sensor is only good at reading tiny variances from 14.7 AFR. That's completely useless since rotaries spend so much time around the 11's and 12's. So just a gauge would have nothing useful to read a signal from since most just read from the stock O2 sensor.

 

Download and print the Brian Davies [Wargasm] Datalogit tuning document. He explains everything.

AFR gauge that ricers love so much works off the 0-1v signal received the stock "narrow" band O2 sensor and is therefore totally useless.

The Innovate Motorports website FAQ answers all your questions. Get the LM-1 or XD-1.

Update: My LM-1 interfaces the Datalogit in wonderful fashion when I unchecked the delta box.

 

Beautiful, thanks guys

 

err okay so i have my red wire hooked up to a fuse in my fuse box (left kick panel) my blue and white wire grounded at a bolt next to shifter. yellow and brown in aux 1 & 2. nothing with the green or black(black is calibration i know). And i entered values into aux 1 in LM programming to 0v 9.5 and 5v 19.5. I used the same thing for my datalogit, except i'm not sure if i have stock poly. mine is a=0 b=2 c=9.5. now my probblem is when i start logging data I see 9.5 only.... any insight?

 

if you just have the bosch wideband 4 wire o2 sensor how would i wire it to the Datalogit box. And at value do I set the O2 feedback?

 

The sensor is driven by a controller box that you program. Datalogit does not drive the sensor. The FC Box receives a signal input from the WBO2 controller. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products.php Watch the support tech videos.

WBO2 doesn't do O2 feedback like the narrow band; they are two different functions. Uncheck the O2 Feedback.

 

It was stated earlier in this thread that the PFC can be run without an O2 sensor signal. Could the PFC be hooked up to one of the analog signals from the WB so you could keep the O2 reading? does the PFC run better with an O2 signal or without?

 

BTW, I'll be installing the Innovate LC-1 with XD-1 gauge soon.
I plan on putting the sensor in the stock bung location. I have a wrapped M2 downpipe which has the bung about half way down and sticking straight up. I also plan on making the heat sink.