adror8

I have a dyno session scheduled for next weekend and would like the PFC experts to take a look at my setup and let me know if anything odd stands out or most importantly if there is any room for squeezing a few HP more safely. The car runs perfect right now. Runs strong and idles without any issues at all. The car came with the PFC which was tuned by KDR a couple of years ago. The car was running OK when I bought it with a dyno sheet claiming around 304rwhp. But I did quite a few mods to the car that required some adjustments. I also noticed the knock levels were very high when I got it (100+ @WOT). The car def. feels way stronger than before. I will include the setup dat file along with a test drive log I did two days ago and engine bay pix as a visual aid. Let me know if you need anything else.

This setup was made out of a modified PFC stock map. I fine tuned it with recommendations found in this forum as well as other forums. Warning! This setup is running like a charm on my car, it may or may not work for others. Use at your own risk.

Except for the mods listed below the car is all stock, including idle control, cold start, EGR, etc

arghx

iTrader: (3)

This is a pretty good looking map. You've done your homework. I think you'd be ok adding timing in N15-N20, P16-P20 area. Maybe 2-3 degrees would be ok. You could ramp it up or whatever. It's not a big deal though. You'd have to play around on a dyno to see what you can get. Your knock readings are low, and you don't have EGT inputs (which can cost half a grand when you're done and are not worth it for most tuners) but you should be ok with that mixture.

You will have to observe as weather changes how much your AFR's move around. Then you'll have to tweak your air temperature compensation table. You have to allow for a fluctuation of about +/- 0.5:1 AFR as the seasons pass.



I also charted up your boost control. The chart at the top has the transition point overlaid (when CCN and TCN switch, the charge control and turbo control solenoids). In that run you didn't slam the gas down though, you kind of eased into it.



Try taking more data with aggressive pedal inputs to see how boost control is doing. I would be inclined to adjust the precontrol "primary" duty cycle (probably not the target boost setting). Also play around with the turbo transition points--I've had good luck setting the hysteresis value (turbo transition "low" values) to 3500rpm for all three. That's something you'll notice around town though, not on a chassis dyno.

Assuming there's no unforeseen issue, My best advice to you is... it makes what it makes. You're probably not going to get much more out of it unless you feel like jumping to a different dyno that reads higher.

adror8

[/QUOTE]Try taking more data with aggressive pedal inputs to see how boost control is doing. I would be inclined to adjust the precontrol "primary" duty cycle (probably not the target boost setting). Also play around with the turbo transition points--I've had good luck setting the hysteresis value (turbo transition "low" values) to 3500rpm for all three. That's something you'll notice around town though, not on a chassis dyno.

Assuming there's no unforeseen issue, My best advice to you is... it makes what it makes. You're probably not going to get much more out of it unless you feel like jumping to a different dyno that reads higher.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the quick reply and input. I did try playing around with the boost control settings but it did more harm than good. Let me clarify that I drive the car every other week to work (44miles commute) even in dry winter days so I am very picky when it comes to factory like drivability while I do enjoy power when I need it.
I agree with you about the boost control though. It could def. use some twicking. I looked back into some older logs I have and it does spike up to around .92 and noticed the notorious unrepeatability of the system. But for the most part it maintains the same boost pattern you analyzed for me. I will send you the logs from the dyno session this w/e as weather is not cooperating rt now to get more aggressive logs.
I really don't care much about the HP numbers. I just want to confirm that I have positive results after the mods I did. I'm satisfied with enough power to spin the tires in 1st, 2nd, and may be a bit in 3rd that's all . Right now it does 1st and 2nd have yet to try 3rd. I won't be disappointed if it doesn't though. It didn't even spin the tires in 1st before. I use this old and subjective technique as a comparison b/c that's what I will be enjoying the most not dyno pulls .
I’m fine tuning the fuel map some as I did notice a slight lean area before turbo transition up to around 7PSI. So I will dyno it as is first and then with the corrected fuel map and the timing and transition adjustments you recommended. I think that could give me a little more lower end power. Is there a specific turbo control setting you suggest I try while on the dyno or any other adjustment? I think I should also clean up the base fuel map a little as it has some cells at 100%+ duty. I don't see a need for that, correct?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

If you are logging "basic" under the monitor window, you can see max injector duty. Look at the trend line in the charts and also look at the map watch window.

As for the timing, you need to do sweeps of target boost and duty. I have explained it on a single turbo application here: https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...ontrol-900599/

adror8

Subscribed!! Thanks will def. get into that in the near future. Do you think I could reach the 330HP mark reliably with stock injectors, if I crank up the boost a little to 13?

adror8

Quick update after dyno tuning session. I actually lost some HP from the baseline data I had to compare. I was a bit surprised but not discouraged as I did make some safe adjustments to the timing to correct nocking issues. Since the set up was rich and could tolerate more boost safely, I decided to increase the boost to 14psi. Unfortunately I was not able to make the boost stable at 14psi on the dyno. Soon after I left the dyno I got it dialed in though. But even at 14psi the car was running rich at wot so I have been leaning it out at wot with great results. Although I have not been able to log some numbers yet after that, just going by the gauges. I will run some logs and post them as soon as I can.

Thanx ARGHX for your help and direction. That thread you pointed out to me really helped.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

if you dont mind telling me , what were the results your dyno sessions howmuch power at 12 PSI , vs 14 ( even if it was unstable)

adror8

[QUOTE=Tem120;11384372]if you dont mind telling me , what were the results your dyno sessions howmuch power at 12 PSI , vs 14 ( even if it was unstable)[/QUOTE

Had trouble uploading the jpg file, couldn't figure it out. I'll try later again from another computer. But I was able to see all the test runs I did that day. It clearly seems that the hp trends at 14psi are higher than at 12psi but since boost kept kicking in and out I was able to see the full potential at 14psi. The trend looks like the Himalayas The peeks hit around 280-290. I will head back to the dyno after I finish the sway bar end links upgrade and get to do some logs on the street at WOT with the adjustments I made at 14-15psi.

adror8

I finally had a break from the snow and was able to do a log this morning. Please any inputs or comments will be appreciated. This run is at 1.00pr/1.00sec and 54/54. Way more stable than even before I started messing with it at 12psi. ARGHX please let me know what you think. I'd like to squeeze the most power at 14-15psi so let me know if you see any area of attention. I'm also attaching the two dyno runs made at 12 and 14 psi for comparison. The 12psi run has apparently a plug break up at around 6K still need to look into that. It was the only one that showed a break up out of 10 that day. Thanks!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Take a look at the brown WG% graph. You're getting a lot of oscillation. Have you tried lower values for the Secondary duty? Try a downward sweep of duty setting until hopefully the wastegate % settles down (it might lower overall boost). So you would try

Pr 1.00 52
Sc 1.00 50

Pr 1.00 52
Sc 1.00 48

etc. If possible take a different log after each setting, and name them carefully so you can accumulate data and keep track of it. Basically, we went the WG% not to jump around nearly as much. Then look at your peak boost, and see if raising the boost target might be necessary. I don't know how it will turn out (might require a plumbing change), but you could end up with something like

Pr 1.00 52
Sc 1.05 46

You should do this methodically though. Guessing or trying somebody else's values like you did here can only get you so far. Also, try raising your turbo transition hysteresis to 3500 (3520)rpm, settings 3 "turbo transition low." Look at the red box in the screenshot; that's what you should change. You probably won't notice this on a dyno, but you'll notice a difference in the way it drives around town.

Get some logs on the street at part throttle and just general use of the primary turbo so we can see if that can be adjusted further. You also can try changing the turbo transition points... you can see how much work could be involved in tuning just the boost, so you have to know when to say enough is enough.

adror8

Sounds Good, will make some more adjustments and post som logs. I agree that waste gate should behave more steady specially when the secondary comes ON. It really is not too much hassle. I does take some time as patience though. I understand how it could get a little frustrating to some people. But since I make one adjusment and run a log on my way to work and/or back, and sometimes over lunch time, and look at the data then try something else whenever possible, really doesn't bother me.