hi guys I know base maps are frowned apon but I cant seem to get me af ratios up. mine idles and drives at 10 which is far too rich.

I need to drive from Shetland to wgt tunning in Manchester. 700 miles away and I don't think using the base map is the safest thing to do. my IGL and IGT maps are almost completely red. idling at 8 and going up to 40's and 50's.

just something to try and see if it works beter than this base map. I have the datalogit etc. im still learning how to use it.

my car spec is
93 rx7
13b stock ports
single turbo t62-1 ball bearing with .96 hotside (large street port this year)
standard injectors
no airpump
no sai
no egr
3" exhaust straight to apexi n1 exhaust

not sure what to add?

e-mail to gavinbey@hotmail.com I can pay if you would prefer? paypal?

thanks in advance.

 

If you initialize the PFC all the changes will be reversed back to the base mod map.
Why do you need for someone to send it to you?

 

I live on an island north of scotland and I have the only rx7. And nobody knows how to tune a car. I will get my tune done in Manchester. I wasn't sure if the base map would get me there as its 700 miles away and the car seems to be running very rich. 10 on my AEM.

 

No air pump means you MUST turn off the O2 FB (Feed Back switch) or run richer.
Single means you should turn off the Sequential Turbo control switch for proper control of the stock boost control system.

Stock injectors will limit you to a safe MAXIMUM power of about 320 whp.

You need to contact arghx about joining the YAHOO PFC tuning group which I started back in 2006. It has the most PFC/RX7 tuning notes and technical data
of any non professional in the world.

If you plan to really keep and maintain the FD, you will need a DATALOGIT and a good wideband.

 

Hi thanks for the reply. I have got a datalogit and a wideband. They are all hooked up. The problem I have isn't power of related now. Its a fuel system problem. It just keeps on flooding. Even on the first turn after takin the plugs out and blowing the motor dry. I checked my injectors today and they click so I think they work. I'll have to test them tonight. Gas is in the oil also too now.

 

What is your base fuel pressure with the engine idling, and the control hose removed from the FP regulator? If it is 38 to 40 psi then you have leaky injectors or bad inj. seals.

 

It failed mot majorly today. The power FC is Running 10 afr. How do I lean the map out?

 

With the commander and PFC manual: pages 22 & 24.
With the datalogit: INJ MAP, BASE MAP, or SETTINGS 3.

But with stock map, and stock injectors, and stock fuel pressure regulator, with O2 FB turned off; you have a fuel or injector problem if you read 10 AFRs .
Or maybe your wideband to laptop software/hardware is not properly setup.

 

I'm using the power FC. I've turned down the cranking ms to 10 to see if that helped. ( by puting less fuel in for start up. ). What sort of fuel/injector problems could cause it to flood overnight? Injectors don't seem to be stuck open either. It's just a pain in the **** that I've to get it towed before it will start. Fpr?

 

Got it running today. My fpr was struggling to cope. Now I've been playing with injector map correction. If the cell is .500 (lowest it will go) an my af ratio is still at 11 what can I do?

 

i forget the actual name for it but its like recalibrate base map and it moves the settings over to the fuel map and resets all the cells to 1.0

 

If one was to download the PFC manual in English and read it; re-calc base.

 

so whats with this secret tuning group?

is that why i cant find anything usefull in the power fc forum? like my 550/1600 combo runs like **** and cant get it out of my driveway on a basemap and when i search i only find useless threads ending with you saying join the pfc group.

there should be info spewing out the ears for this set up, yet i cant find jack.

 

Last i remember, arghx was heading up the PFC group.

 

Yes I have re intitialized server all times. Makes no diffrence. It runs fine now guys BUT just won't start from cold without a bump start (tow with my friend). It's very Anoying. I can have te car running fine. All warmed up. When I switch it off I take it to 3000 rpm, switch off the ignition then floor the accelatrator. When I come back to it the following day it just floods

 

Sounds like you have something mechanically wrong. Using the stock injectors there should be no real issue starting your car or driving it to the tuner on the apexi base map. Since you are single turbo just turn off the sequential operation.

There is something else wrong that can not be tuned out. I would start by pulling your rails and seeing if you have a leaking injector, then verify that you have the grommets and spacer installed.

You really need to consider upgrading your fuel system.

 

ive fixed most of my problems now. it starts runs and drives fine . ive been using the datalogit to retard the ignition a bit for a bit of saftey, its still runing 10AFR past 5krpm wich ill need to work on.

on cold start the car fires up then dies, it will only keep running if i blip the throttle when it goes to cut out. i have removed my double throttle. am i right in saying that i just need to alter the corection factor for temp slightly ritcher when cold? around 10degrees?

ive also bought a gm 3 bar map sensor that i need to fit. what values are people using? i am at sea level.


thanks in advance for any help/ im finaly understanding this ecu

 

what was the update on this im having the same issues with not wanting to start at all but once it is started its perfect....sorry to revive old thread but really want to know the fix...thx in advance

 

Did you remove the iac valve next to the tps?

 

No I am still running g the thermowax unit and iac and double throttle. I actually got it running today. Turns out it was only a crap tune. Reset my ecu and she started right up!