Damnit, nothing is easy. So I started the process of logging to have an idea how everything is working before getting this thing tuned. AFR on gauge and logs are way off.
At idle it is pretty accurate as it is in cruise. On board the afr increases on logs and shows around 11-11.5 on gauge at around 8psi. It shows around 14-15 on logs I went through a few notes on here that recommended different settings for the AN1. After logging weird stuff I then put in exactly what the manual states which is
0v 10
4.99v 20
the logs are the same.
I also added a ground wire to the AN2 to chassis. Logs are the same.
I am a little skuuuurd so I won't be playing with this thing in boost much more until a "pro" looks at it. Just curious as to what I messed up?


AEM 30-4110 gauge
if relevant......
New motor w/ SP, (Kilo), REC coated seals, PFC
New Haitachi 3kai turbos "sp"
DP , Magnaflow MP, RB dual
HKS ign amp
Pettit intake and large IC
550/2200, TT supra pump




i have not rewired pump (Sakebomb's wire harness should be here any day)
I have not done any grounding mods... getting ready to do so

 

I just saw mistake in above post, but regardless I used these settings originally and got the same readings
0v 10
4.25v 18.5

 

First you need to log AFR to one decimal point, not rounded off to a whole unit.
You need to calibrate your WB to your laptop.

HOW TO CALIBRATE YOUR DL TO YOUR WIDEBAND O2 SENSOR



Kyle and I had noticed the DL AFR readings from our old M@W Uego wideband showed leaner than the expensive unit at a local Houston Porsche Race Shop. The M&W did not have it's own calibrated display to compare against. My newer PLX M-300 wideband has it's own display and showed richer than the DL. Something in the DL hardware or software is causing the error. If your wideband has it's own display, you can correct the DL.



Some owners use both the AN1(+5v) and AN2(ground) inputs from their wideband and use the delta function. This fixes the floating ground potential between the DL and the WB. I run a common ground between both boxes which allows me to use only AN1(+5v). Either way works. I also have a noise filter between AN1 and ground which removes any spiking caused my EMF.



It is safer to calibrate for a rich AFR like we run under boost. I calibrate near 11 AFR. Hook up everything to the car except the O2 sensor. Put it inside a quart jar sealed with multiple layers of saran wrap kept in place with rubber bands. Turn the ignition and all equipment on. Do not start the engine. Set up a watch to monitor AFRs or log AFRs. Fill the jar with propane like from a portable hand torch until the wideband displays less than 11. Using a small straw, slowly blow air into the jar until the display stabilizes near to 11 AFR. Using the DL AUX setup panel, adjust the AN1 values until the DL values matched the wideband displayed values. Normal is 0-5V with AFR 10-20, mine ended being 0-5V with AFR 9.93-19.93 in order for the log to match the WB display.