Cory Simpson

MY IGNORANCE?!?!?!


Bitch! I didn't have the money to rebuild the motor that was in the car, someone moron had ported it out, so tht it was nearly useless for street driveing. And it had blown coolant seals. Which points to someone doing a shitty job rebuilding it. So how was I supposed to deal with that? I would have had to put a hole new rebuild kit into it, which at teh time I thought would cost me more than this swap, but boy was I wrong......


SOOOOO.... STFU!!!

Cory Simpson

http://www.msnusers.com/fuelcutswitc...to&PhotoID=165

http://www.msnusers.com/fuelcutswitc...to&PhotoID=166

http://www.msnusers.com/fuelcutswitc...to&PhotoID=167


I thought I would post some more pictures of the wireing progress.

Also does anyone see a clearance inssue in the last picture

Cory Simpson

http://www.msnusers.com/fuelcutswitc...to&PhotoID=169



Another picture!

scathcart

Ha ha ha. Piston swap to save money Budget engine swaps are always ghetto. Let us know how great the car is when it dives into your first corner at 30 mph.

JonathanJuan

the 1jz is japans transitions engines from the 7m-2jz engine (all of these are supra engines)

7m: 86-88 supras
1jz: 88-92 supras
2jz: 93-98 supras

the us spec supra kept the 7m engine from 1986 to 1992
the japanese get all the goodies.

3isacharm

factory rated power:
7m: 220
1J: ~276

it wouldn't surprise me if the 1J were underrated. I wonder how your car would compare to a MKII supra with a 7m swap. everytime i ride in the thing it makes me want to throw a 7m in my car. running on 5 cylinders, it ran almost even with a MKIV with a small single running about 500rwhp from 45mph to 110mph. it's fun as all hell.

firstgen12s

what do the mk ll supras weigh?? i bet its close but i think the rx7 would be a little bit lighter. the mkII supras with a 7m would rock though for sure..

Cory Simpson

Humm, the MKII is about 2700 lb.

So it will probably be pretty much even with my TII includeing the 7MGTE.

Also, I am doing a TO4 upgrade with a 50MM HKS race gate. And supporting mods, along with a lex AFM, and I'm gonna get a spec clutch, so it should be fun. But I don't think it will ever hit 500 HP, if it does that would be awsome, but I don't think it will go over 350 with my mods.

Although it may

GAMBEAN

iTrader: (2)

you will definately be over the 300whp with that upgrade. lol should be very interesting.......post some vid's

Cory Simpson

Yeah....


That's when it gets done!

Were going to build a tubular manifold for the TO4, and I've got to buy a clutch that will hold that, which will cost like $500. Along with the cooling system that still isn't even started on yet, and the exhaust which is another $200.

But the electrical is pretty much done, so that is good!!!

Also, I'm gonna keep the boost under 20 PSI, because the engine has never been rebuilt, and it still has the stock head gasket. And I've never heard it run either, so doing those mods are kind of shakey.

But if it blows it blows

3isacharm

it may be pretty tought to pull 500 from that motor, but you most likely won't need it. when his car was running right, before it broke the transmission, at about 420 hp or more, he ran a 12.4 in the 120's at reynold's, ga. in the process he beat a 911 turbo. finish that damn car, you'll love it! and fuckoff for doing it before me!

Thaniel

Cory,

Awsome swap. Working inside a budget is half the fun.

Cutting the firewall...Oh yah. I thought I was the only person crazy enough to do that. I must say my hole is like 3 times the size of yours though. How far back did you have to put the motor?

I am sure you are way to far to consider it now but I would relocate the steering rack forward or down to give the engine a better slant.

I'm swapping in a nissan maxima vq30de-K and a nissan 350z 6speed trans. I had to rework the front subframe and relocate the steering rack and cut the firewall to get it all to fit under the factory hood without cutting the factory hood. (going for the sleeper look)

I totally know what you are talking about working on a buget. Anyone can go spend a gob of money and get a fast car. Heck I could go to the dealer and have a nice shinney fast car by this afternoon but who can build one?? Who can build one without spending a lot of money?? To me that is the cool part.

So far my project I have spent about $1500 bucks. Which includes the engine trans, the non running S5 car and many misc bits. Doesn't include the welding wire, bolts or cut off wheels. I enjoy making stuff and so far it has been a blast.

By the way where did you get your drive shaft made. That part is going to cost me some $.

Keep up to good work and the updates.

It's cold here and I don't have a heated garage. My hobby is kind of on hold for now.

Cory Simpson

We cut the fire wall 7 inches, and set it back in it about 5 inches.



That should be sweet

I didn't know you would have to cut the fire wall to put a V6 in (Isn't the VG30 a V6?)

Also, the next thing that is stopping my 7M from sitting lower is acctually the swat bar, but if I would have moved/taken that off, if would have only sat about 1" lower. So not a real gain considering the motor will stick out the hood like 4". But that is mostly the intake, the cam gears will be out about 1" or so. But I kinda want to see those sticking out of the hood



Wow, we're on about the same lever! It will take about another $500-750 to finish mine, and I have spend about $1200-1500 so far.

How did you do your tranny mount? If you didn't see the one we made, it is a K member, with 18 guage steel supporting it (running up to the floor pan).



I got if made at a local shop called master fabricators. I cut the front yolk off of the TII drive shaft. And then he got a 1/2 of a new yolk, that fitted the supra's U-joint, which I kinda lucked out on, because the supra has replacable U-joints. But it cost me $125 dollars, so it was ALOT cheaper than I expected. I was thinking they were going to charge me like $300 +.

And if you need help getting the measurements, I will tell you how I did it. (if you want to know)




Yeah, thats the one benifit of liveing in SC

Thaniel

Wow back 5 inches. Are you going to have room to put the heater back in?

Yah the VG30 is also a V6 (different block though). The problem I was having was I wanted it to fit under the stock N/A hood. The engine is kind of tall so to get enough clearance I had to move it backwards (aprox 2"). Initially I wanted to do an infiniti V-8 from a Q45 but it would have never fit under the hood and transmission options weren't good.

I see if you were only going to gain 1" by lowering the engine and it still wouldn't fit under the hood, I see your point. For mine 1" makes all the difference.


I haven't finished the trans mount yet. I am using a polyurethane trans mount that is made for Chevy v-8's then Going to fab a cross brace and bolt through the floor pan and adding some stiffners to the floor. I had to cut the original rx-7 trans mount points off to get clearance for the trans. They were also too far forward anyway.

I saw your K member and it looks plenty strong. I didn't see the pic of it installed.

Your driveshaft sounds like you got a deal. I expect I'll have mine totally custom made. I was expecting aprox $350 for that part. I'm going to wait until I start the engine to order that.

Currently I need to finish the trans mount and wire up the engine and plumb in the cooling, fuel etc. I plan to reuse the Rx-7 radiator (already installed) and after welding the firewall back together with any luck I can get the heater, wipers etc all back to working order. I've pretty much given up on worring about A/C.

Keep up the good work and keep posting updates.

I'll try to attach a pic of my Project. I've gotten a little farther since this picture.

Cory Simpson

Here are some pictures of the trany mount, finished and welded in.

Front the front: http://www.msnusers.com/fuelcutswitc...to&PhotoID=185

From the back: http://www.msnusers.com/fuelcutswitc...to&PhotoID=184

And here is a picture of the little bit of room between the front sway bar, and the oil pan, also I considered making a new oil pan from scratch, and makeing a dry sump to save room, but the crank is only like 1/2-1" away from the pan in the front.

Anyways, heres the picture: http://www.msnusers.com/fuelcutswitc...to&PhotoID=183



Also, my heater, AC, and plain old blower, are all gone, because none of them will fit back in now, because of the fire wall being cut. So defrosting the winshield in the winter may be kind of fun.

But the windshield wipers are fine, the lost alot of clearance, but still have room to work without modifying them.

And we are putting a vent right in from of the winshield so that it will keep cylinders #5/6 cool, because they are set back in that hole. That will probably get really hot.

3isacharm

the guy that put a sr in his fc completely fabbed a new oil pan from scratch to clear the sway bar and whatnot. it's doable, just a big PITA. btw, what are you using to control this motor, the factory 7m ecu?

Cory Simpson

Yeah, but like I said, making a new drysump pan wouldn't be worth it, because the crank shaft is only like 1/2 an inch away from the oil pan (on the front were I need the clearance), so I wouldn't want to put it any closer.

Also, yes I am useing the stock ECU, and an S-AFC. Later on I may try to buy an HKS VPC, and a GCC for the VPC. So I cam further tune it after the S-AFC. But thats when I get like 600 bucks to throw away.

Thaniel

The trans mount looks plenty strong. Only question I had was where are you going to run the exhaust?

I had thought about doing a duel exhaust set up but getting around the tranny is a problem. I'll probably go down the passenger side where the rx-7 exhaust went as the tunnel is a little wider there. still have to get past my tranny mount though. Space is always tight it seems.

Man I wish it wasn't cold here.

Cory Simpson

I'm gonning to get s small section of oval tubeing, and use it under the brace. And then just run a 3" single out one side of the car. I don't think it will drag because the car isn't going any lower than stock.

And acctually the tranny mount sags a little bit when you put the weight down on it, that is why we put that 18 guage steel going up and down to the floor pan.

3isacharm

no i didn't mean a complete dry sump system, just a very rearward sump with a small front area. however i didn't realize the crank was so close.

Cory Simpson

Yeah, it would be cool if it did have alot of room, but then I couldn't have timing gears sticking out of the hood scoope. Because they acctually sit to the rigth side of the TII's hood scope, and they are inside of it. So it should look pretty cool!


But the intake sticking out of the hood will be a little wierd, so I'll probably end up putting a cowl or something over it.

onepointone

how much longer do you think it has till you finish?

Cory Simpson

Until I can round up another, ohhh say.............. $1000 bucks.


If I had the money/parts it could be running within a week. I just don't have a job, and not to much else to sell on the forums/ebay, so I'm kinda screwed until I go get a job.

Maybe I should go fill out some applications right now

Cory Simpson

Well I finally took the interest to finish the hood for the most part. Once I get the intake back on, I'll will modify it so that it fits to. But for now I got it closeing with clearance around all parts.

Here's a picture:

http://www.msnusers.com/fuelcutswitc...to&PhotoID=189

Cory Simpson

Well, I fitted the intake, and cut a little bit more of the hood out from the bottom side. And to my suprise, everything fits under the hood without cutting the skin.


And I must say it looks really sweet!