I just assumed your gearbox/starter location was already setup for the T2/FD flywheel size.

for a track car, smaller diameter is better, just like less weight is better (for the same reason) but it does make it more difficult to launch/start from a stop...

I'm not sure I would want to drive a 4.5" clutch with a 4.5 lb flywheel on the street

 

I want to use my Tilton 7.25" Triple with a flywheel about 7.25" big :-)

 

This Is one shweet build.... I cant wait to see it finished!

 

Its almost winter so he has more time now

 

I have been thinking about the intake. I would want to have tapered runners, but because "someone" decided to lower the entire body over the frame, there isn't much space above the engine.
This means that I have to make a turn on 156.5grd pretty tight around the engine and land on the block. The options are to cast runners in plastic, carbon fiber or aluminum perhaps?

Today I continued to mod my intermediate irons for more bearings.
First I layed a the intermediate and clamped it. Then either front or rear iron onto to indicate the centrum.




Machined two new very tight dowels. As tight as possible.
Even then you can move the plate 0.015mm in both directions. I alinged in the middle of the play.

 

Looks familar?



Other question, do you know how the .7mm side seal grooves are made in the rotors? milled or EDM?

 

Do you mean in stock rotors?

I know how I did the 0.7mm groove :-)

 

how did you do it? :p does it differ from stock?

 

I don't know how they do stock. But mine are done with the groove between the skeleton and the sides. Have posted pictures of that earlier :-)

 

Saw that, but I was wondering how one would do it when having a cast rotor. EDM would be the best, but really slow and expensive, hard to believe they edm it in the factory, so they must have a .7mm end mil then?

 

A 0.7mm Endmill is very slow also.
You need extreme spindelspeed, approx 20000rpm maybe?
Also a very long mil, and slow feed.

Did calculate this on mine, but with my slow machines it would take a year :-)

 

damn, then they must have some special fixture/lathe where they spin the rotor in the correct radius and lift tool when it is in the corner seal hole? maybe edm is then the only feasible solution for a small batch of exotic material rotors :/

or one must make compromises and do it this way
https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...2122010414-jpg

 

Haha, thats one way to do it...
Are you going to make some of your own?

 

who knows =) just looking out to what tooling would be mandatory. only hard part seems to be these grooves, all the rest can be done with conventional equipment

 

Just read this thread... incredible.

Everything is awesome.

Subscribed.

 

The build continues.
Bought standard lock rings, but couldn't let them be standard.
Grinded them from 2.5 and 3mm with friendly tolerance to 2.00mm



The it was time for the grooves. Did them +0.03 to +0.05mm in height to get the right feeling. They are easy to install, and sits solid when released.

 

Have modified an old front bearing for test.


A keyway as well.

 

Amazing work, keep it up!

 

First of all I'm very proud to annouce this link

http://www.build-threads.com/general...uilds-of-2013/

Back on topic.
Builded some new benches to work on, and then started to assembly the dummy again to put back in the car for some measurements.







Tonight I was out on the highway and meet a friendly truckdriver from Czech Republic. He had brought a 20B flexplate from hIGGI on the forum. Thanks alot for that hIGGi!



Also got some V-band-clamps today. Perfect size. Small and tight, just like we want them.

 

k its been nearly two months. time for an update

 

Not much is happening at the moment.

I shortened my steering rack at last. Cut 220mm of an let 200mm be left.






















Took some M24-nuts and machined out the threads. Then put them over my 4-link rods for adjustments later on. Just a little work with the TIG, and they are ready for some paint.






Are going with these 15.99mm solid dowels straight through the engine. Better off than the OEM.

 

Aren't does dowels normally open for oil?

 

there are simple solutions for that

 

Please enlighten us on that solution. I would love to know it

 

drill out the brass plug in the front housing and feed the front bearing from there.

the bearings in this custom intermediate housings on this built will anyway have to be fed from an external line trough a steel or brass pipe.