Rotary Beetle Update
I don't know man abou the wheels...They look okay but they would probably look better if the car was dropped or slammed...if not then i say stay old school if you can...
Thread Starter
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
From: Northern South Africa
Thanks for the comments!
Currently the suspention has not settled yet,as i have only moved it forward and backwards a bit.It will be lowered lateron though.
The rims actually look quite nice in real life,it will also help if i could take photos at proper angles.hahaha
Last night i worked on installing the gauges.I finished up the holes ,and installed some of the gauges temp to get an idea.(Pics!)
Later on i worked on the ignitors for the ignition system.I`am using TP500 Ford magnetic ignitors.I also remembered to buy a second coil,i kept on forgetting i need two,and not one.
Karis
Currently the suspention has not settled yet,as i have only moved it forward and backwards a bit.It will be lowered lateron though.
The rims actually look quite nice in real life,it will also help if i could take photos at proper angles.hahaha
Last night i worked on installing the gauges.I finished up the holes ,and installed some of the gauges temp to get an idea.(Pics!)
Later on i worked on the ignitors for the ignition system.I`am using TP500 Ford magnetic ignitors.I also remembered to buy a second coil,i kept on forgetting i need two,and not one.
Karis
Are you going to try DLIDFIS at some point? You'll need a total of three ignitors and three coils. In the mean time, just get it running with what you have first and go from there.
I lowered my 1303 with some rabbit strut inserts and some honda CRX rear springs. i think the total cost was ~$100 (US). The springs are narrower so you can fit a wider tire in there too. It required a little hacking on the lower spring perch and i had to turn a spacer on the lathe to make up for the shorter rabbit strut length. I did a ghetto spring rate test (arbor press, bathroom scale, tape measure) The stock 1303 springs are progressive so it's hard to get the real measure but the CRX springs were around 15% stiffer if I remember correctly. The springs/struts and a rear sway bar made the car handle sooooo much better.
you can see my coolant lines runnin up the fender on the far right \/

The cheap-o ebay threaded bodies aren't even necessary, I was afraid it would sit too low with out them but it wouldn't be a problem at all.
I don't see any before and after pics in my collection but if I get a chance ill snap a pic of the results.
Great work by the way, I really like the dark wheels. let's see some more pics!!!
you can see my coolant lines runnin up the fender on the far right \/

The cheap-o ebay threaded bodies aren't even necessary, I was afraid it would sit too low with out them but it wouldn't be a problem at all.
I don't see any before and after pics in my collection but if I get a chance ill snap a pic of the results.
Great work by the way, I really like the dark wheels. let's see some more pics!!!
Thread Starter
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
From: Northern South Africa
Thread Starter
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
From: Northern South Africa
I lowered my 1303 with some rabbit strut inserts and some honda CRX rear springs. i think the total cost was ~$100 (US). The springs are narrower so you can fit a wider tire in there too. It required a little hacking on the lower spring perch and i had to turn a spacer on the lathe to make up for the shorter rabbit strut length. I did a ghetto spring rate test (arbor press, bathroom scale, tape measure) The stock 1303 springs are progressive so it's hard to get the real measure but the CRX springs were around 15% stiffer if I remember correctly. The springs/struts and a rear sway bar made the car handle sooooo much better.
you can see my coolant lines runnin up the fender on the far right \/

The cheap-o ebay threaded bodies aren't even necessary, I was afraid it would sit too low with out them but it wouldn't be a problem at all.
I don't see any before and after pics in my collection but if I get a chance ill snap a pic of the results.
Great work by the way, I really like the dark wheels. let's see some more pics!!!
you can see my coolant lines runnin up the fender on the far right \/

The cheap-o ebay threaded bodies aren't even necessary, I was afraid it would sit too low with out them but it wouldn't be a problem at all.
I don't see any before and after pics in my collection but if I get a chance ill snap a pic of the results.
Great work by the way, I really like the dark wheels. let's see some more pics!!!
Thing that sucks is : I still have an old Swinging axle beetle.So i`ll have to change the spline settings at some time.Luckily mine is new enough to have the"z" bar,which will help with the handeling
Bloody hell i`am having trouble getting adapters for the rear!Everyone is sold out.Would have like to post so pics of the "new" rims on the rear,but not yet i guess.
I starting to get really excited now!
Karis
Hey Karis,
I'm cursed with the swingaxle too. Btw, I got redrilled drums in Ford pattern. Here is mine:
https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/s4-efi-13b-into-street-bug-736813/
I'm cursed with the swingaxle too. Btw, I got redrilled drums in Ford pattern. Here is mine:
https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/s4-efi-13b-into-street-bug-736813/
That will be nice, keep the pics coming.
About the suspension, I don't think the Z-Bar will help you any. (I took mine off) It actually promotes body roll, just like the "Camber Compensator" bars. Like any car the way to get better handling is to add a Sway Bar, but this is not recommended because it could potentially make the rear wheel tucking situation more dangerous. This can be prevented by installing limiting straps to stop the rear wheels from dropping much. That is my plan anyways.
About the suspension, I don't think the Z-Bar will help you any. (I took mine off) It actually promotes body roll, just like the "Camber Compensator" bars. Like any car the way to get better handling is to add a Sway Bar, but this is not recommended because it could potentially make the rear wheel tucking situation more dangerous. This can be prevented by installing limiting straps to stop the rear wheels from dropping much. That is my plan anyways.
Thread Starter
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
From: Northern South Africa
The z-bar will be my aid to stop the axles from dropping too much.I will space the portion that goes through the axles mounting area,effectively stopping the axle from dropping to much.
I`ll post some pics trying to describe the procedure in a few min
I`ll post some pics trying to describe the procedure in a few min
I've heard of people shimming them, but they do nothing to prevent body roll. Actually shimming it will increase the roll because in a turn, as the outside wheel is pushed up into the wheel well, the z-bar will push down on the inside wheel. A heavy sway bar will try to lift the inside wheel, fighting roll and effectively lowering the car in the turns. I may even look into the possibility of softening the spring rate to increase the effect. Limiting straps are cheap and easy to install. Just something to think about... my 62 cornered great with nothing but a couple inches of lowering, but the oil pan on the 13b is awfully close to the ground as it is.
No real biggie, your bug will be a riot regardless!
No real biggie, your bug will be a riot regardless!
Thread Starter
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
From: Northern South Africa
Oh,ok!Thanks for the heads up.
As you can see,i`am still learning.My knowledge on beetles are very limited.The Rotary i know,but the old German car still scares me sometimes.
Got my adapters for the rear wheels.I`am currently busy putting them on(just pressing in the last few studs)
I`ll post some pics of how it looks now.
As you can see,i`am still learning.My knowledge on beetles are very limited.The Rotary i know,but the old German car still scares me sometimes.
Got my adapters for the rear wheels.I`am currently busy putting them on(just pressing in the last few studs)
I`ll post some pics of how it looks now.
Thread Starter
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
From: Northern South Africa
Halo Guys.
Got an update!
Have done the following in the last few days.
1.Made almost all of the holes required for the water pipes.
2.Press fitted studs into the adapters
3.Wire wheeled the branch (header)(Look Ma,its all shiny!)
4.Fitted the adapters
5.Fitted the rear wheels
6.Found the missing Oil temp gauge
7.Cleaned up all of the broken glass on the inside(tried to steal it some years ago)
8.Fitted the chrome rings around the headlights
9.Fitted the eyelids,and got them to stay on,and not fall off.
10.Continued working on the wiring,got some more things working now.
Does sound like that much,but most of the things weren't straight forward,there we allot of hassles.
They day it will be finished is getting closer!!!Muhahahaha!
Karis
Got an update!
Have done the following in the last few days.
1.Made almost all of the holes required for the water pipes.
2.Press fitted studs into the adapters
3.Wire wheeled the branch (header)(Look Ma,its all shiny!)
4.Fitted the adapters
5.Fitted the rear wheels
6.Found the missing Oil temp gauge
7.Cleaned up all of the broken glass on the inside(tried to steal it some years ago)
8.Fitted the chrome rings around the headlights
9.Fitted the eyelids,and got them to stay on,and not fall off.
10.Continued working on the wiring,got some more things working now.
Does sound like that much,but most of the things weren't straight forward,there we allot of hassles.
They day it will be finished is getting closer!!!Muhahahaha!
Karis
Thread Starter
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
From: Northern South Africa
Well,for the time being I have oiled it a bit to prevent immediate rust.
As soon as it gets going it will only surface rust,which is removable with a rag.(Or that is what it was like on my Rx7,header got to hot to rust actually)
Thanks for the other friendly comments!
Karis
As soon as it gets going it will only surface rust,which is removable with a rag.(Or that is what it was like on my Rx7,header got to hot to rust actually)
Thanks for the other friendly comments!
Karis
Hi guys. Guess what our friend Karis did recently? He decided to bow to the ricer gods... he bought a Nissan 200SX!
I think a link to the Nismo club would be in order. Anybody want to direct him there? My browser wont let me type either Nissan or Nismo...
So like his cousin pointed out, he went from an old geezer driving an Alfa 166 to a ricer.
Hopefully that Beetle will run soon!!!!
Dont worry Karis, we still love you.
P.S I own a Hyundai Sonata as my daily driver coz there is no way in hell I will use any rotary for work! He will mention this and try to have a go...
Jammer pel, kon nie die versoeking weerstaan nie.
I think a link to the Nismo club would be in order. Anybody want to direct him there? My browser wont let me type either Nissan or Nismo...
So like his cousin pointed out, he went from an old geezer driving an Alfa 166 to a ricer.
Hopefully that Beetle will run soon!!!!
Dont worry Karis, we still love you.
P.S I own a Hyundai Sonata as my daily driver coz there is no way in hell I will use any rotary for work! He will mention this and try to have a go...

Jammer pel, kon nie die versoeking weerstaan nie.
Thread Starter
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
From: Northern South Africa
Hi Kevin ,and other Guys reading this
I havent gotten to cranking it yet.I have to redo the wire leading to the starter,and the ones surrounding it.My starter is a interesting story.Iam going to use a newer 80`s kombi(bus!) type !2volt starter.I changed the engaging gear on it,and machined it shorter.It should get the engine turning over better than with a beetle starter.Technology used on it is waaayyy newer.haha
The project is allmost on hold at the moment.Money isnt really comming in.
I have been doing odd small things in the mean time on it,but nothing really worthy of taking a photos.haha
Karis
I havent gotten to cranking it yet.I have to redo the wire leading to the starter,and the ones surrounding it.My starter is a interesting story.Iam going to use a newer 80`s kombi(bus!) type !2volt starter.I changed the engaging gear on it,and machined it shorter.It should get the engine turning over better than with a beetle starter.Technology used on it is waaayyy newer.haha
The project is allmost on hold at the moment.Money isnt really comming in.
I have been doing odd small things in the mean time on it,but nothing really worthy of taking a photos.haha
Karis
My starter is one of those long high torque porsche ones I think. It has enough strength to spin the fresh rebuilt engine without spark plugs so I've yet to see what it will do with spark plugs. Also got the raw materials for the header and a rudimentary exhaust system.
Just gotta spend time with a welder. If it's too loud I'll redo it.
Just gotta spend time with a welder. If it's too loud I'll redo it.
did you re-gear the starter for a shorter quicker start to crank the flywheel?
And also maybe i missed it somewhere but when you bought your adapter plate was the kit complete with front and rear counter weights clutch and pressure plate?
And also maybe i missed it somewhere but when you bought your adapter plate was the kit complete with front and rear counter weights clutch and pressure plate?


