I've been able to drop in 2 ounces of engine oil down both stacks of the 48 IDA and feather the throttle wheel to get the car to start up but it's never consistent. Sometimes it takes 4 or 5 coaxing attempts and will idle until the gas tank runs dry while other times it'll sputter after multiple tries, idle for a minute then sputter out. Still, after numerous attempts it won't start at all. Is it possible that it's this difficult because of the exhaust setup right now: just a Racing beat header and nothing else after that. Need to get it to the exhaust shop.

Is there a trick to these to where I can just jump in, mash the gas once and then just turn it over?

It's getting to be pretty disappointing. Don't get me wrong. When it fires up, throttle response on it is nuts! Sounds great with that signature gurgling idle.

I've got a March 17th drift event coming up and would love to get the car to it.

 

I have heard webers can be very cold blooded due to their lack of a choke, but most times if the motor has good compression it should start without too much trouble. Maybe a compession test is in order since it seems you need to build compression with oil down the carb barrels to get it started. Seems like when the gas washes away the oil, the motor loses compression and stalls.

 

That's what it sounds like doesn't it.

 

if your adding oil before starting, then it must be flooding. check your float. how does it run once it is running tho. also, check your spark plugs before pouring some oil

 

An MSD 6a on the leading coil(s) could help mask the issue you are having. More spark..less fouling.

 

My initial thought is that it is flooding but how do I know how much to depress the gas before trying to turn it over or if I should even have to. I have another carb setup but it's a 4 banger w/ dual 44 miks in another corolla. I just have to mash the gas once and I can turn it over w/ a little pedal coaxing every time. It's like clock work. Here, there's not dependable method that I've discovered yet.

When it finally gets running it sounds so nice. When I blip the throttle it is so very responsive. That throttle response just frustrates me all to hell with this problem .


Wouldn't I have to run dual 6ALs on the leads? If so that'll be expensive.



Here's my fuel setup currently:
Fuel is via a carter 4070 in the rear to an aeromotive bypass fpr. Line routing is 5/16 incoming to the fpr and a 3/8 bypass return. Pressure readings with just the pump on is 6+psi and that's without the motor running. When I did get it idling on I was able to adjust the pressure down to 4-4.5. I should probably go ahead and just re-run a new 3/8 line from the tank to the fpr just to make sure.

The carburetor is a rebuilt 48 IDA.

 

no. it's known as a wasted spark system. fires both leading plugs at the same time.

 

Is it a night and day difference in spark between the 6AL and the 3 HEI ignition modules in my current DLIDFIS setup?

 

Turn on the ignition for about 10sec, pump gas twice and start. Check the float and your timing also

 

When I flood my cars I floor the throttle plates open while starting and back off when the motor catches, so it won't rev up high.

Story behind MSD suggestion...I had a Bridgeport that developed morning startup issues when it was about ready for a rebuild. It had stock RX7 ignition with some aftermarket coils. The motor would almost start, then flood. I would change the plugs out and then it would start. I rotated between two set of plugs every time I drove It until I added an msd and then no more issues. Now I just want a stout ignition system on everything, because it helps trouble shooting. It can't be the ignition, so it's...

+1

6psi could make a webber flood. You can look down the barrels with the air filter assy off to verify that no fuel is flowing into the barrels with the fuel pump on and engine off.

Or first thing in the morning try a no throttle input start attempt then pull the leading plugs to see if they are wet.

 

I decided to go back to a dead head fuel system since it's what I know works for me consistently in all of my other setups.

I'm going to pull and clean the plugs as well as push any excess crap out with some dry turn overs.

Looks like I'm in the market for a 6AL.

I appreciate you guys.

 

I experimented with several ignition, DLIDFIS (using stock igniters per leading coil) work as good as a MSD 6A/AL. MSD boxes are good as I have them also but for dirt cheap, DLIDFIS is a good alternative.

 

Here's what I've been trying to describe:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEvu6...eature=related

This is after I poured in ~2oz down each barrel.

 

Man that sounds horrible. Or the microphone doesn't like the low range. What plugs are installed and when you remove them, what kind of shape are they in. color, oil, smell like gas? Clean them with brake cleaner + a toothbrush

When I cold start my 13b streetport in cold ambient conditions...65*F or colder, I run the fuel pump for 10 seconds to fill the bowl then pump the gas pedal 5 times and it fires right up. Have to feather the throttle until it'll idle on it's own.

Never needed to pour oil in there. I bet the plugs are fouled. Try WD-40 instead of engine oil if necessary, it's a thinner oil that burns better and still increases compression.

Is the timing correct?

Drop the fuel pressure to 4 psi once it's running, you don't want to flood it. 6psi is way too high.

 

Ur timing is off. Find ut tdc, qnd make sure ur pulley hasnt been touched then restab the distributor

 

I opened the plate on the pass side to line up the flat portion of flywheel parallel with the block (flat side running north and south basically). I marked on the distributor body where the leading points would be and lined up the rotor tips to them as I stabbed the distributor in.

I've converted over to a dead-head fuel setup so I'll be able to maintain more consistent fuel pressure the way I know how.

Thanks y'all.

 

I didn't realize you could set the timing like that. I have always done it using the marks on the front pulley. Did it work out? Does the car start and run better?

 

Flywheel is an old school trick to find ur true tdc as most pulleys can be installed 4 different ways

 

Good to know.

 

That's how I lined it up to begin with. Sorry for not being clear.

After I get all the fuel lines hooked up again with the Holley dead head fpr I'm going to try DriveFast7's start up recipe.

I'd love to be able to make it to the next local rx7club barbecue meet here in Houston with it. There's also a drift event I want to make with it March 17th.

I just need to get it starting up dependably and then legal.

 

Here's footage of it the day before the hard startup.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW1pH...3&feature=plcp

 

sounds good

 

Pulled the plugs and spun the motor until it was spitting clean (ok, cleaner).

I found that the trailing plugs were covered in oil and fuel. Upon testing them only one (the plug wire to the front housing trailing) was sparking (very feint) and erratically while the other wasn't sparking at all. I thought it may just be the plugs. I plugged them up to the lead plug wires and they came to life. I confirmed by testing the lead plugs again in their home wires and then on the trailing wires. The same thing occurred with the lead plugs as with the trail plugs on the trailing wires. As soon as I replaced the cap and rotor - BANG! Houston we've got lift off!

THEN, I found that just with the fuel pump going before the car even starts, the pressure on the gauge shoots up to 6 psi! I'm using a Carter 4070 and Holley low press. fpr and 3/8 from tank to pump to fpr and carb (6AN). Looking down the carb I'm also seeing the pump jets dripping (rapidly - more like dribbling) onto the throttle plates. So I'm discovering that it's flooding badly!

I was able to drive it down the street a few hundred yards but when I did an about face it puttered out.

I'll need to inspect the accelerator pump assembly and play (hopefully there's no play) and hopefully a rebuild and float adjustment will fix it.