datsun 510 13b TII swap.
#27
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well I'm on a budget so the cheapest way of fitting it will be the way i go. that 510 looks clean, can i get more pics? was your car a auto before or was it a 4 a speed?
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any pics of the hole car?
#30
you can minimize the amount of trans tunnel and firewall cutting if you use a gsl-se center housing and oil pan. unfortunately, you would have to take the engine apart to change the housing and flip the oil pan around, but it would allow you to mount the engine on the factory crossmember if you fab the mounts. the install will look a lot cleaner. i dont have a wagon, but on my coupe, i just needed to hammer out a spot on the trans tunnel for the slave cylinder.
i've attached a few pics from a car that i was modeling mine after. so i can't take credit for being the first to do this. but i have to give props, this setup was the cleanest i've ever seen for a rotary into a 510. granted it isn't a turboII motor, but i think the key install points warrant some merit.
i've attached a few pics from a car that i was modeling mine after. so i can't take credit for being the first to do this. but i have to give props, this setup was the cleanest i've ever seen for a rotary into a 510. granted it isn't a turboII motor, but i think the key install points warrant some merit.
Heres a few pictures of a rotary 510 the first is belongs to Wackyracer's driving buddy "Victoracer" That car I just finished not too long ago and the other one is the one I currently working on. The motor is stock TII, I like the way the motor and trany mount's came out on this one not the same way I made victor's. I could have copied Mynor's engine mount's but choose not to do it, Mynor sell those mount so copying it is probably not a good idea, plus he's a friend of mine.
The thing with the 13b on a 510 is that you really cant pushed the motor back too much or forward because of the cross member and the steering linkage's. The oil pan has to reverse, the engine placed perfectly in the middle of the steering linkage and the cross member. If the motor is mounted too far back the steering will hit the back of the oil pan when the steering is at pull turn (it goes up and down when turning). You can mount it higher but not any lower, clearing the clutch slave cylinder away from the fire wall is not a big deal.
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thats looks sick mine wont look pretty like that but it if i can get it in and going for the spring and then next winter if its all good, make things nicer looking and work on a lsd for it. so i take off the oil pan and turn it around? it all bolts right up and works? i think thats what you talking about? and i wont need to cut the cross member, i was thinking about the sr20det and that was going to need more work then the 13b i think. and with the stock turbo and turbo manifold and stuff it all fits? its probably going to be close to the shock tower/ fender.
thanks for all the help guys because I'm going to need it.
thanks for all the help guys because I'm going to need it.
#34
rotary510....no need to apologize I'm sure Mynor wont mind, plus he's car been posted around here before.
510wagon.....with the stock turbo and manifold you'll have some problem with clearance near the frame rail as it will sit on top of that. It wont be in the way of the strut tower and fender. You can mount the motor higher but the bell housing will hit the fire wall. You can notched the frame rail and box the cut out hole to clear the turbo or make a new manifold....I hope this help and good luck with the swap.
510wagon.....with the stock turbo and manifold you'll have some problem with clearance near the frame rail as it will sit on top of that. It wont be in the way of the strut tower and fender. You can mount the motor higher but the bell housing will hit the fire wall. You can notched the frame rail and box the cut out hole to clear the turbo or make a new manifold....I hope this help and good luck with the swap.
#36
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flip the pan...
but you'll also need to re-drill the mounting holes on the oil pan flange. so its not quite as easy as just flipping it around. you'll also need to modify the oil pickup tube. i think there are a few other technical details in terms of spacing and engine angle that need to be kept in mind when dropping it in, but those were the basics. you'll also need to think about cooling and driveshaft. the stock 510 radiator is not big enough and you'll need to figure mounting for the oil cooler. next is the driveshaft. you'll need the correct input and output sides and length... but this is always a nice time to consider a lighter and/or rebalanced driveshaft!
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some more ideas. i think I'm using the end of the drive shaft that fits in the trans and other 510 end that is on the diff. just need to fill the gap in between. might be able to use the 510 drive shaft it might be long enough. not sure about what I'm going to turn around or flip or cut yet. i know some new options now something to think about. i will use the rad from the rx7, and the oil cooler. and i bought a fmic for it. i will need to make some block off plates and stuff soon also. but i think I'm going to start working on the 510 now. start taking the l16 out, and get it ready. i also need to figure out a fuel pump. i have the stock rx7 pump could make it fit in the 510 tank. or just buy a inline fuel pump (not sure what pump to get)
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as you can see from the pics not much done. haven't done much lately going to start working of getting the 510 apart soon. ill get more pics when i start that.
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today i worked on it and i have the motor, trans, drive shaft, exhaust, seats carpet and some wiring out. now i need to do a little more stuff too the 510 like get some more wires off. then it will be ready to put in the 13b too see how it fits.
some new pics...
some new pics...
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people say flip the cross member as you can see in the pic of it it will come up higher right? so that wont help. i will probably cut it and lower it as much as i need to and weld it back in.
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also what block off plates do i need? i removed the AC pump, PS pump, air pump, i bought a fmic and bov, so what else do i need to remove? and what to i block off? i will block off the pipe that was going in the cat. what else do i block?
#44
take all the accessories out of the motor which will make it easier to place and pull the motor out of the car during fabrication.
Once you have the motor set in place every thing else is cake.
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i still don't know about the oil pump pick up.... and turning around the oil pan? what about the motor mount thats bolted through it? still lines up? when i get it in ill see how much its off by. and how much needs too be gut or moved. an i think I'm going to keep the stock tmic and all that stuff on it and get it running in there then do the bov and fmic and piping. just so i have less problems getting it running.
#49
Still got it.
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He has a 13B 1972 510
http://www.superstreetonline.com/fea...car/index.html
http://images.superstreetonline.com/...ood_Engine.jpg
http://images.superstreetonline.com/...ary_Engine.jpg
Its just amazing.
#50
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nice cars for sure some other nice ones here
http://www.bryanf.com/510/index.htm
http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/arti...atsun510rotary
http://www.bryanf.com/510/index.htm
http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/arti...atsun510rotary