A regular 1st gen or old school front cover will do. You can push it all the way back. But if you ever blow your clutch, you have to pull out the motor instead of the tranny (FD tranny is an exception).

 

well I'm on a budget so the cheapest way of fitting it will be the way i go. that 510 looks clean, can i get more pics? was your car a auto before or was it a 4 a speed?

 

that's all i have of the engine in the car. i have a couple shots of the engine on the engine stand after it was just rebuilt and a few shots of the car when i got it. but it wasn't pretty when i bought it. my 510 had a manual trans in it when i bought it.

 

any pics of the hole car?

 

Hey that's "Mynor's" 510 and yes this is by far the cleanest rotary 510 swap ever.

Heres a few pictures of a rotary 510 the first is belongs to Wackyracer's driving buddy "Victoracer" That car I just finished not too long ago and the other one is the one I currently working on. The motor is stock TII, I like the way the motor and trany mount's came out on this one not the same way I made victor's. I could have copied Mynor's engine mount's but choose not to do it, Mynor sell those mount so copying it is probably not a good idea, plus he's a friend of mine.

The thing with the 13b on a 510 is that you really cant pushed the motor back too much or forward because of the cross member and the steering linkage's. The oil pan has to reverse, the engine placed perfectly in the middle of the steering linkage and the cross member. If the motor is mounted too far back the steering will hit the back of the oil pan when the steering is at pull turn (it goes up and down when turning). You can mount it higher but not any lower, clearing the clutch slave cylinder away from the fire wall is not a big deal.

 

here are a few pics when i bought it. it looks a lot different now,but i dont have anything current.

 

i dont know mynor. so i apologize for posting pics of his car/engine without permission. those shots were taken at performance solutions behind mazdatrix about a year ago.

 

thats looks sick mine wont look pretty like that but it if i can get it in and going for the spring and then next winter if its all good, make things nicer looking and work on a lsd for it. so i take off the oil pan and turn it around? it all bolts right up and works? i think thats what you talking about? and i wont need to cut the cross member, i was thinking about the sr20det and that was going to need more work then the 13b i think. and with the stock turbo and turbo manifold and stuff it all fits? its probably going to be close to the shock tower/ fender.

thanks for all the help guys because I'm going to need it.

 

rotary510....no need to apologize I'm sure Mynor wont mind, plus he's car been posted around here before.


510wagon.....with the stock turbo and manifold you'll have some problem with clearance near the frame rail as it will sit on top of that. It wont be in the way of the strut tower and fender. You can mount the motor higher but the bell housing will hit the fire wall. You can notched the frame rail and box the cut out hole to clear the turbo or make a new manifold....I hope this help and good luck with the swap.

 

just copy it. I doubt it he got it patented. thats what carshows and forums are all about. sharing, duplicating and such.

 

but you'll also need to re-drill the mounting holes on the oil pan flange. so its not quite as easy as just flipping it around. you'll also need to modify the oil pickup tube. i think there are a few other technical details in terms of spacing and engine angle that need to be kept in mind when dropping it in, but those were the basics. you'll also need to think about cooling and driveshaft. the stock 510 radiator is not big enough and you'll need to figure mounting for the oil cooler. next is the driveshaft. you'll need the correct input and output sides and length... but this is always a nice time to consider a lighter and/or rebalanced driveshaft!

 

if you can, cut the stock 510's cross member, flip it around and weld it.

 

some more ideas. i think I'm using the end of the drive shaft that fits in the trans and other 510 end that is on the diff. just need to fill the gap in between. might be able to use the 510 drive shaft it might be long enough. not sure about what I'm going to turn around or flip or cut yet. i know some new options now something to think about. i will use the rad from the rx7, and the oil cooler. and i bought a fmic for it. i will need to make some block off plates and stuff soon also. but i think I'm going to start working on the 510 now. start taking the l16 out, and get it ready. i also need to figure out a fuel pump. i have the stock rx7 pump could make it fit in the 510 tank. or just buy a inline fuel pump (not sure what pump to get)

 

hows the swap going

 

as you can see from the pics not much done. haven't done much lately going to start working of getting the 510 apart soon. ill get more pics when i start that.

 

today i worked on it and i have the motor, trans, drive shaft, exhaust, seats carpet and some wiring out. now i need to do a little more stuff too the 510 like get some more wires off. then it will be ready to put in the 13b too see how it fits.

some new pics...

 

people say flip the cross member as you can see in the pic of it it will come up higher right? so that wont help. i will probably cut it and lower it as much as i need to and weld it back in.

 

also what block off plates do i need? i removed the AC pump, PS pump, air pump, i bought a fmic and bov, so what else do i need to remove? and what to i block off? i will block off the pipe that was going in the cat. what else do i block?

 

That's too much work, the easy way would be flip the oil pan and if your handy with a welder you can make the pick up tube longer that way its on the right place and use the first gen rx7 front cover and make your engine mount up front just like or similar to the one I made. the only thing you gonna cut would be about 3" half moon off the fire wall to clear the slave cylinder. I've done this several time already and will be doing another.

take all the accessories out of the motor which will make it easier to place and pull the motor out of the car during fabrication.

Once you have the motor set in place every thing else is cake.

 

the idea behind it is to clear the oil pan.

 

I'm not sure about messing with the oil pump. i can easily cut and mod the cross member. i might just cut it out and make a new one.

 

its not that oil pump. you just have to modify or extend the "oil pick up tube"

 

i still don't know about the oil pump pick up.... and turning around the oil pan? what about the motor mount thats bolted through it? still lines up? when i get it in ill see how much its off by. and how much needs too be gut or moved. an i think I'm going to keep the stock tmic and all that stuff on it and get it running in there then do the bov and fmic and piping. just so i have less problems getting it running.

 

Not saying anything bad about Mynor, but take a look at a guy named Todd Kaneko.

He has a 13B 1972 510

http://www.superstreetonline.com/fea...car/index.html

http://images.superstreetonline.com/...ood_Engine.jpg

http://images.superstreetonline.com/...ary_Engine.jpg

Its just amazing.

 

nice cars for sure some other nice ones here

http://www.bryanf.com/510/index.htm

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/arti...atsun510rotary