Test and Tune Pacific Raceways 12 Aug 2011
08-08-11, 01:34 AM
#1
Test and Tune Pacific Raceways 12 Aug 2011
I'm going up there on Friday to proof my setup. Come on down and have some fun. You ai't gotta race, just come out and enjoy a nice and loud Friday night.
Then again it could just be time to put up, or shut up. (wink, wink)
Test N Tunes are open to all vehicles (Street Legal cars, Imports, Motorcycles, Bracket Racers, Jr. Dragsters, etc..). All vehicles must pass an NHRA Technical Inspection before participation. Tech will take place in the staging lanes before making a pass. We will work hard to get everyone as many runs down the race track as possible. Staging Lanes will be shut down 30 minutes prior to curfew. This event features time trials for racers.
Spectator Price:
Adults (15 yrs+): $12
Juniors (7-14 yrs): $5
Children (under 6): Free
Tech Card Pricing:
TNT Tech Cards: $30
Jr. Dragsters: $30
NPSA: $50 (good for 8/12 to 8/13)
Gates open at 4:30 P.M.
Then again it could just be time to put up, or shut up. (wink, wink)
Test N Tunes are open to all vehicles (Street Legal cars, Imports, Motorcycles, Bracket Racers, Jr. Dragsters, etc..). All vehicles must pass an NHRA Technical Inspection before participation. Tech will take place in the staging lanes before making a pass. We will work hard to get everyone as many runs down the race track as possible. Staging Lanes will be shut down 30 minutes prior to curfew. This event features time trials for racers.
Spectator Price:
Adults (15 yrs+): $12
Juniors (7-14 yrs): $5
Children (under 6): Free
Tech Card Pricing:
TNT Tech Cards: $30
Jr. Dragsters: $30
NPSA: $50 (good for 8/12 to 8/13)
Gates open at 4:30 P.M.
08-08-11, 03:25 AM
#2
Were's my chopsticks?
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: olympia, WA
Posts: 748
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ill go! Sense I got laid off from work I will be free that day. Do you mind if I hitch a ride up there with ya jesus? I can't wait to actually see the thing go 
08-08-11, 10:14 AM
#3
FD pro licensed driver
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Hmmmmm, tempting. Been curious what my drift setup would run. 
Would also be nice to have pre and post cam swap times. Might do this.
What time does racing actually start, and about how many runs do you normally get on average on a T&T day? How mad do they get when you blew your diff apart all over the start line?
~Tweak
Would also be nice to have pre and post cam swap times. Might do this. What time does racing actually start, and about how many runs do you normally get on average on a T&T day? How mad do they get when you blew your diff apart all over the start line?
~Tweak
08-08-11, 06:29 PM
#4
Gates open at 4:30 P.M. so they will probably start running around 6:00 P.M.
@ TweakGames- They get seriously pissed off as it stops racing for about 10 minutes to clean up. I thought your setup was bulletproof already. That's the right way to build a racecar anyways. Come on down.
@Nytrate- I'll see because I was planning to leave from Ft Lewis to help save me some time, traffic pain and fuel.
@ TweakGames- They get seriously pissed off as it stops racing for about 10 minutes to clean up. I thought your setup was bulletproof already. That's the right way to build a racecar anyways. Come on down.
@Nytrate- I'll see because I was planning to leave from Ft Lewis to help save me some time, traffic pain and fuel.
08-08-11, 07:41 PM
#5
FD pro licensed driver
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Gates open at 4:30 P.M. so they will probably start running around 6:00 P.M.
@ TweakGames- They get seriously pissed off as it stops racing for about 10 minutes to clean up. I thought your setup was bulletproof already. That's the right way to build a racecar anyways. Come on down.
@Nytrate- I'll see because I was planning to leave from Ft Lewis to help save me some time, traffic pain and fuel.
@ TweakGames- They get seriously pissed off as it stops racing for about 10 minutes to clean up. I thought your setup was bulletproof already. That's the right way to build a racecar anyways. Come on down.
@Nytrate- I'll see because I was planning to leave from Ft Lewis to help save me some time, traffic pain and fuel.
Engine is bullet proof, anything mazda related isn't. It's a drift car, not a race car, it has to go fast sideways. 
Sadly, I am not allowed to change the rear end. Sorry, 300 tq off idle is pretty tuff on things. 
If I come I will just bring street tires, won't need a driveshaft loop then I don't think right? Is it anything below 13 seconds?
08-08-11, 11:55 PM
#6
Here you go, right off the website.
The following rules are only a few NHRA rules you need to meet to race at Pacific Raceways, but they are the most commonly caught by our tech officials.
Credentials: Drivers must have a valid unrestricted state or government issued driver’s license, with no underage driving restrictions (i.e. supervised, provisional, etc.) or an NHRA Competition License; subject to inspection by officials at any time.
Helmet: If your car runs 13.99 or quicker you must have a helmet with a SNELL 2000 rating or newer.
Roll Bar: Mandatory in cars running 11.00 to 11.49 (including T-Tops), in convertibles running 11.00 to 13.49, and all dune-buggy type vehicles running 12.00 and slower. See NHRA Rulebook Sec. 4A.
Fire Jackets: Required for drivers in cars running 11.49 or quicker meeting SFI spec. 3.2A/1; Drivers in cars running 9.99 and quicker must have jackets and pants, meeting SFI spec. 3.2A/5.
Master Cutoff: A master cutoff for a battery is required for any car where the battery is relocated. Battery must be securely mounted as described in the NHRA Rulebook.
Catch Can: A catch can is required for coolant overflow. One pint (16-ounces) minimum.
NHRA Chassis Sticker and license required for cars running 9.99 or quicker or running 135 MPH or faster.
After market harmonic balancer mandatory on all cars running 10.99 or quicker (SFI spec. 18.1)
Driveshaft loop: A driveshaft loop is required on all vehicles running 13.99 or quicker and utilizing slicks; except vehicles running 11.49 or slower equipped with street tires.
Protective Clothing: Full-length pants; short- or long-sleeved shirt; closed shoes; and socks. No shorts. No tank tops. No open-toe or open-heel shoes or sandals. Synthetic clothing not recommended
Wheels: “Spinner” style wheels or any wheel design that incorporate moveable pieces while vehicle is in motion or stationary are prohibited.
The following rules are only a few NHRA rules you need to meet to race at Pacific Raceways, but they are the most commonly caught by our tech officials.
Credentials: Drivers must have a valid unrestricted state or government issued driver’s license, with no underage driving restrictions (i.e. supervised, provisional, etc.) or an NHRA Competition License; subject to inspection by officials at any time.
Helmet: If your car runs 13.99 or quicker you must have a helmet with a SNELL 2000 rating or newer.
Roll Bar: Mandatory in cars running 11.00 to 11.49 (including T-Tops), in convertibles running 11.00 to 13.49, and all dune-buggy type vehicles running 12.00 and slower. See NHRA Rulebook Sec. 4A.
Fire Jackets: Required for drivers in cars running 11.49 or quicker meeting SFI spec. 3.2A/1; Drivers in cars running 9.99 and quicker must have jackets and pants, meeting SFI spec. 3.2A/5.
Master Cutoff: A master cutoff for a battery is required for any car where the battery is relocated. Battery must be securely mounted as described in the NHRA Rulebook.
Catch Can: A catch can is required for coolant overflow. One pint (16-ounces) minimum.
NHRA Chassis Sticker and license required for cars running 9.99 or quicker or running 135 MPH or faster.
After market harmonic balancer mandatory on all cars running 10.99 or quicker (SFI spec. 18.1)
Driveshaft loop: A driveshaft loop is required on all vehicles running 13.99 or quicker and utilizing slicks; except vehicles running 11.49 or slower equipped with street tires.
Protective Clothing: Full-length pants; short- or long-sleeved shirt; closed shoes; and socks. No shorts. No tank tops. No open-toe or open-heel shoes or sandals. Synthetic clothing not recommended
Wheels: “Spinner” style wheels or any wheel design that incorporate moveable pieces while vehicle is in motion or stationary are prohibited.
08-09-11, 12:19 AM
#7
FD pro licensed driver
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
"Master Cutoff: A master cutoff for a battery is required for any car where the battery is relocated. Battery must be securely mounted as described in the NHRA Rulebook."
Crap, I have my battery relocated into my bin without a master cutoff.
Crap, I have my battery relocated into my bin without a master cutoff.
Trending Topics
08-09-11, 04:00 AM
#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sammamish, Washington
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If I get out of work early I'll see if I can go spectate, otherwise i should be at the bracket race Saturday
The battery must also be in an approved battery box, sealed and vented to the outside of the car.
some tracks are more strict than others with some rules. they are most strict with faster cars... basically if you want to go fast, they want you to get your stuff together- you wouldn't believe some of the scary stuff the tech guys see people trying to run. likelyhood of an accident for a 12 second car being deadly is much lower than that of a 10 second car, and even more so with a 7 second car. odds of accidents occurring also go up with speed too. but generally if you can pass tech, you should be safer than driving on any public street.
here's a great layout of the rules(posts 1 &2):
http://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racin...rness-etc.html
tweak- for the setup you plan..... I'd say set it up for going 10.00
The battery must also be in an approved battery box, sealed and vented to the outside of the car.
some tracks are more strict than others with some rules. they are most strict with faster cars... basically if you want to go fast, they want you to get your stuff together- you wouldn't believe some of the scary stuff the tech guys see people trying to run. likelyhood of an accident for a 12 second car being deadly is much lower than that of a 10 second car, and even more so with a 7 second car. odds of accidents occurring also go up with speed too. but generally if you can pass tech, you should be safer than driving on any public street.
here's a great layout of the rules(posts 1 &2):
http://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racin...rness-etc.html
tweak- for the setup you plan..... I'd say set it up for going 10.00
08-09-11, 05:43 PM
#9
Problem is that in a vehicle without a sheetmetal rear firewall, the battery must be mounted in a special sealed box with a vent to exterior. Your next issue is wiring the Alternator charge wire to the live side of the switch so it does not continue to run on charge line voltage after the switch is off.
08-14-11, 05:41 PM
#14
I had never before seen a perfectly good ignition rotor grenade itself until now... I guess its time to fix the next weak link.
Back to tuning... BTW these tires SUCK! Even at 14 pounds and leaving the line at 9k... they spin like they are greased. Already have my eyes on the next one. September 4th.
Back to tuning... BTW these tires SUCK! Even at 14 pounds and leaving the line at 9k... they spin like they are greased. Already have my eyes on the next one. September 4th.
08-15-11, 07:34 PM
#17
brappppp brappppp
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: everwet washington
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
armyofone, you have proven too many times that there is not a part that can not be broken if given the correct conditions..........but a rotor? Man that sucks. what is next? going to cas and stand alone?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gabescanlon
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
4
09-05-15 12:04 AM
