question, what the hell is up with the rotors in the first pics>? never seen that before, and second, i heard the viton seals suck, prone to early failure, talk to rob at pineapple about that one, i guess theyve had alota bad luck with em, other then that lookin good,

 

The rotors are different, they should rev. up quicker due to lightened mass and the way they move the exaust flow more effeciently. Viton o-rings are o.k. to use, just not for every location in the motor. I just recieved my Apexi intercooler and a rear difusser from Shine auto project, pics to come. Polishing as I go. Still waiting for the turbos from Tial, a pair of gt30's with their stainless steel housings. Should be interesting...

 

Wow... You don't play around.

 

Nice... Keep us posted on the progress

 

Well I've been pretty busy with work lately, but as promised here's some more pics. The intercooler is an Apexi GT spec. I really like the delta fin design, should work for what I'm doing. If you look at one of the endtanks, you'll see I've done some sanding. Gonna polish it to match everything under the hood. This intercooler measures 5" thick! Should take up some real estate.

 

Here's some shots of the Shine auto project (Fujita Eng. vers. 2r bumper and front wide body fender). Adds 30mm width to the wheel well. My front yard is a Japanese garden if your wondering, it's my less expensive hobby.

 

Got the diffuser also from Shine. I'm going to coat it with Rhino lining or line x. Now I just have to get it to fit with the SX fuel stuff and lines.

 

Here's some pics of the rotors being cut to 3mm. I'm going to work on the car some more this week, still waiting on TiAL for the turbo housings before we pull the motor.

 

very nice

 

WHAT THE HELL???? That's some very nice stuff there Matt! Where did those CF interior pieces come from?

 

Oh my god is that thing going to be rediculous! Think the auto trans will take the abuse?
Nice to hear progress is coming along. Been a few months since I saw you last at an Izzy's meet.
Definately keep showing off the photos and progress!
Nice work!

 

Thanks for the compliments everyone, I'll be working on the door hinges tommarow hopefully at Gary's. Ken- thanks for making all the bodykit pieces that I've always wanted, your work has quality written all over it. The interior pieces were sent to Indonesia to be done. I spent $1100 for everything including shipping. The Momo wheel was around $500 with the KYB quick release hub. It will be some time before I drive it around, engine bay-paint-Hre wheels- before I'll even show it. I figure a couple of years at my current level of income. Worth it in the end, to me anyways.

 

The auto transmission will be upgraded. I'm leaning towards a (Level Ten) upgrade or one from FB Performance. I'm open to suggestions from anyone. I even considered a manual swap. Autos are great around here with all the hills and bridges. Personal preference.

 

Wow, looks amazing.

your turbos sound like they are going to snap necks.

 

I went to see my car at Gary's house, about an hour drive, but worth it. I took some pics and did some work on the car. A very productive day. More on that later. Gary had the Groundzero lower intake manifold sent out to be polished. He's planing on adding stronger threaded inserts and is going to machine out the injector holes to accept the MSD 1000cc secondaries. We purchased the proper tool from MSD to do the job. I also went with Groundzero's fuel rail. Anyway here's some pics.

 

Here's some different angles of the lim.

 

Here's some pics of the Groundzero secondary fuel rail with four ports. The rail uses -6 a/n sized fittings. I used some masking tape to keep the hardware from getting lost. Also I picked up a front engine cover (polished) from Goodfellas here on the forum. A great seller by the way.

 

I also picked up Groundzero's oil pan. This thing is serious compared to the stock one. It uses an O-ring instead a paper gasket and is going to strengthen the motor from shifting as well. Two drain plugs and came powder coated black.

 

To fuel my setup, I decided to go with a SX Performance pump, regulator, and filter. Aeromotive check valve to keep the fuel from leaving the system when you change the filter. The supply lines are -10a/n and the return -8a/n. After the regulator, -6a/n thru the rails. Got some great fuel lines and fittings comming also.

 

Here's another close up of the pump showing the model #. Got a stainless steel flange already for the custom Extreme Performance twin GT30 turbo setup. I also had Sevenlust modify the taillights to the 99 spec style. It was getting dark when I took the pics so I'll get some more. He polished the covers and did the center section in three bars. I liked his work and speed, so I had him polish my rear sun shade also. Everything looks new! And it was cheap- highly recommend him. Here's another interior shot.

 

Here are some pics of the GT Factory vertical door hinges. I researched every lambo door kit out there before deciding on these. They are the only kit that goes up 90 degrees and sit straight up the sides. With that range of motion, getting in and out are a breeze. The box weighed so much, my wife had to wait for me to get home to bring them in the house. These hinges are universal to any vehical and therefore have to be welded on.

 

Somemore of the hinges. Each hinge uses two shocks to help lift and hold the door upright. They have a nice nickel-chrome finish on them. After seeing them on Kafka91's FD and a local 300ZX I was sold.

 

Ok, finally got to make some progress. I now have the passenger side hinge on. There are some more things to do like extending the wires and relocating the plugs. Here's a bunch of pics of the install. The pics your about to see took place in a six hour period, we wrapped up around 10pm, so some of the pics are dark. I'll do my best to narrate. The kit comes with a cd rom for install tips, but because it's a universal kit, you'll have to try and figure it out on your own. Hopefully this will help you guys out if this is something that you want to do. First, we removed the upper door hinge and the pin that is located in the middle of the door towards the interior, and disconnected the wiring loom at the fender plug.

 

After those were out of the way, we were able to dry fit the hinge to the fender. We used a marker to outline where the edges of the hinge would need welding. A grinder with a sanding wheel was used to remove the paint and prep the surface.

 

On the door, where the upper hinge was mounted, we noticed that one of the bolt holes would be useable to mount the new hinge to. We made a template, then drilled and slotted a hole in the hinge to take advantage of it. With the hinge now attached to the door,it was very easy to weld the rest of it to the fender.