Buy a plug and play megasquirt when muytaibxr gets some ready. Plug and play complete programmable fuel and spark with a kick *** set of software (that is free!). If you got the money then get a microtech. I guess a good standalone would be cheaper than replacing an engine in the long run. Besides it will give you more tunability/reliability/power!

 

I would have to recomend the microtech over the megasquirt any day. There are microtechs that come up for sale on here quite often for around 600-700 bucks, thats only like 200 more than what an assembled megasquirt goes for. But hey, its all opinions right? just look at who is making 500+ wheel and you wont see many rotaries on megasquirts. If i had a NA set up and wanted something cheap i would do a mega squirt, but for something boosted, invest in something with more quality. just my 02.

CJG

 

i'm thinkin about headdin up there.

unless anybody knows of any dynos closer to redmond.

 

Carb Conn is one, it's in Kirkland. Their pretty spendy though. http://carbconn.com/

 

Wow, with AFRs like that I am actually amazed that the car survived! I've seen engines blow at 12-13AFR and you're throwin down 14s!


You're either really lucky, or really lucky

 

Going standalone is a major pain in the *** and very expensive. Your car is running good right now. I would suggest the alternative inexpensive solution.....water/methanol injection and then upgrade to Rtek 2.0 when it comes out. A wide band would be a good upgrade also.

It kind of takes the fun out of it when you excede your ability to tune it yourself.

 

I just picked a microtech up for 600 bux. i dont think thats too expensive. and once you buy it, you wont ever have to upgrade. Most people that have never installed a standalone are able to do it in an afternoon. Also there are many maps avaliable on this very forum from people that have very similar setups as his.
Also i dont agree with you that his car is running "good" the thing is so lean that it wouldnt last more than a few pulls. I have had freinds with your same philosophy, and they all go through engines mad quick yo. You go cheap and it bites in the long run big time, spend some money up front and youll spend more time behind the wheel rather than working on your car all the time.

CJG

 

I also just picked one up for a 3rd gen brand new with fully wired harness, bosch coils, laptop adapter and all the usual stuff for just over 1000. Wiring does not seem too complex.

 

Ya, they seem to be very simple, you spend about 500 more than me, but you got eh coils, adapter etc. they are out there, just have to keep the eyes open. i think its pretty reasonable priced for something that will be able to control ANY injectors you want to run and also support whatever HP your wallet can afford. There are numerouse guys down under running 7 and 8 second drag cars on microtechs. Much simpler than haltech too.

CJG

 

well said!

 

I turned my boost way down now. It's sitting at 10 psi hi and 7.5 low. I've been a bit lazy latley buying the injectors. Right now I'm trying to stay warm since my logicon broke. I took it out today, all the way down to the harness which was a pain in the *** to get to. By the way the engine is a Atkins rebuilt :P

 

Everyone's an expert so how come my MT is parked. New injectors = totally new tune. New EMS = totally new tune. In a perfect world everyone would have it.

Wally you have posted a better dyno than most people on this board ever will so you must be the expert.

Fix you logicon: http://www.mazdamark.com/

How did you get to the plug?

 

Thats good you turned it down. Nice to see someone thats willing to act responsably , and know when to turn it down. The speed is adicting, but we all know those AFR's are super dangerouse and anything but more fuel is just a bandade.

cjg

 

Mabe you should do some research, by a wideband, make friends with someone that can tune and get your car running. There is a ton of info on the net, including some good base maps for all kinds of injector combonations. Once you have the base map, watch the wide band and start doing some data logging while slowly changing the boost tables with the hand controller. Doesnt sound too hard to me.

CJG

 

You said you were running 17psi. stock ecu with a Rtek. Isn't it possible the stock map sensor is maxed out? The stock map sensor is only 1 bar. - 14.7psi. That might contribute to the problem. Just a thought.

 

You know, you can get a long way by just adding a fuel pressure regulator. Get a little bit of dyno time, and you can figure out exactly where to set it so you don't screw up your idle but still get AFR's of 11-11.5. Granted your horsepower will drop, but you'll be safer.

 

Even if you run off the stock map, there is a secondary / auxiliary map that's used to calculate how much more fuel should be added based on the last values that were encountered on the stock base map with the exception of RPM.

So for example lets say the max value in the stock map is 14.7 psi. The injection curve based on RPM and Manifold Pressure will look a certain way. When it ends, the computer doesn't just shut off, it continues in that same line, or based on some formula entered somewhere else in the ECU. However if there are issues with airflow, temperature, air temp, etc. that require corrections to be made to the injection to maintain AFR or any other properties, it doesn't happen. But based strictly on boost pressure, the auxiliary fuel map will be fine as long as all other things (air temp, water temp, oil pressure etc.) stay equal (RAMBLE OFF).